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Routes in Castleton Tower

Arrowhead, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bjornstad Traverse ( The Girdle of Castleton Tower), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1
Black Sun T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Burning Inside T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Discrete Start to Black Sun T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Hollowpoint T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ivory Tower, The T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Kor-Ingalls Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No Other Options V1 5
North Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
North Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
North Face Original Pitch 1 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sacred Ground T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stardust Cowboy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
West Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Burgette and Erickson, 1970
Page Views: 98,901 total, 505/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Oct 23, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Registration required for camping starting 01 Oct 2010. Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is probably the easiest route on Castleton, and is a fantastic climb. To reach, hike up the talus as for the Kor-Ingalls, when you reach the base, walk around to the north end of the tower and traverse out on a ledge to the base of the chimney which is right on the left hand corner of the North Face.

P1- Climb the double hand cracks in the corner. This pitch is intimidating, but there are many rests. The crux of the pitch is at the top where you climb over a short bulge, and then up to a small ledge to the belay.

P2- Climb a short but tricky 5.8 offwidth protected by an old bolt. Place a big cam here instead of clipping the useless bolt. Then climb the chimney above climbing over chockstones and varied cracks to a belay on a small ledge. The belay takes hand size cams.

P3- Climb up the hand crack up to a stemming move at the top of the chimney which gets you to a ledge. Climb up easy ground to a ledge where you join the Kor Ingalls.

P4- Climb the last pitch of the Kor Ingalls to the top.

To descend rappel the North Face via three raps or the Kor Ingalls via 4 raps.

Protection

Three sets of cams to #3 Camalot, 1 bigger cam for pitch 2. A set of stoppers.

The Bolt

If you tell yourself "the will catch me", you are putting yourself at great risk of falling to a ledge, hitting your belayer and breaking her arm, falling off her and factor 1.5-ing the anchor and leaving a bloody mess dripping down the first pitch and onto the party following you.

You will then rap off, get your rope stuck, and walk painfully and dejectedly, on the ankle that you realize is broken, to the parking area and then be subjected to the crass old nurse with the thick glasses in the Moab Emergency Room (which is hard to find).

Then you get billed and have to schedule that surgery on your ankle, which won't work.

SO—Take a large cam and use it. Seriously, its not much to carry and it's an almost necessary piece for tower climbing in the desert. No reason for you to not have it here except laziness and poverty, and poverty doesn't really count in this situ. (Try paying off the emergency room visit instead? Me thinks not.)

As an addition, again, there is no plan to replace this bolt and there shouldn't be. The first ascentionist, Dan Burgeutte, did the route without the bolt and has asked that it not be replaced. As there is protection that protects the move (you are even toproping with the piece!) it would be silly and against the generally accepted ethics of climbers to replace the bolt. Carry the #5.

—Sam Lightner, Jr.

Photos

Kyle Hill
Denver, CO
  5.9+
Kyle Hill   Denver, CO
  5.9+
Due to the various comments about rapping with single or double ropes, I've done both so here is my experience: You can rap the North Face route with a single 70m, requiring 4 raps. Rap 1 goes from the top of the tower to a set of intermediate rap bolts about 30-40 feet down and to climbers left. Rap 2 goes from those bolts to a nice ledge with chains. Rap 3 goes to another ledge with nice chains, and rap 4 makes it to the bottom, with a few feet extra to spare. I don't think you could do this with a 60M. DO NOT try go from the summit to the first ledge in a single rap, missing the intermediate rap bolts, or you'll find yourself a few feet short of the chains.

If you have double 70M ropes, you can go from the summit to the first ledge (first set of chains, skipping the intermediate rap bolts), and from that ledge you can go to the ground. Hope this is helpful Sep 25, 2017
Climbed this yesterday in very windy conditions. Once you pass 'the bolt' on pitch 2, be prepared to climb through lots and lots of bird poo. We linked pitch two and part of pitch three stopping at the optional belay before joining pitch four of Kor-Ingalls. (Ledge covered in bird poo) This was a mistake on my part but seemed to work well given the gusty conditions up top. It also eliminated the potential rope drag you may have if you linked pitch 3 and pitch 4. Overall, fun route with great climbing throughout but would've been better without the bird poo. Nov 5, 2017
To save on time, we linked pitches 2-3. Just carried up enough rack for 2 decently long pitches. We didn't try, but it seems rope drag would have been a nightmare if linking 3-4. P4 was kinda confusing for me, you wrap up and around the eastward face over a giant wabbly block, then walk along a decent catwalk on the edge of the whole earth, until you find yourself on a platform back in the chimney. From there its fairly easy face climbing on decent-but-not-great gear up the west side to the chains. I was just confused to be wrapped 3/4 around this pillar back into the chimney...but now it looks right. Oct 15, 2017
Alex Temus
Small Town, USA
  5.9
Alex Temus   Small Town, USA
  5.9
^^^^^ Seriously take a look at this comment before rapping, especially in the dark on your first trip up the tower! We had a single 70m rope and we're heading down the North face route but didn't know to go to the first set of chains that are, apparently, well to the left on the first rappel.

For the first rappel we had to stop on a ledge about 10 feet up and 30 feet right of the chains. Fortunately, I had most of the rack, so I built an anchor, my partner lowered down, we pulled the rope and we belayed each other over to the chains. The rest of the rappels on the North face are pretty straight-forward.

Moral of the story: if you only have one 70m rope, stop after probably 20 ft and look for chains that are supposedly on your left, don't rappel the full rope length on the first rappel. Oct 15, 2017
KG
SLC, UT
  5.9
KG   SLC, UT
  5.9
P1 is the only good pitch climbing wise. The rest of the route is chossy sandstone covered in bird crap. I would give the climbing one star but the summit is classic.

Bring a #5 or #6 for the OW, the "bolt" is useless in protecting a fall.

P2 anchors are just 2 old pitons so save a #2 to black up the anchors.

For real though, this route is covered in bird crap. It's pretty disgusting. Sep 24, 2017
Xander Wyckoff
Tucsies
Xander Wyckoff   Tucsies
Yo people, a star drive is not a bolt. It's an antique. Someone needs to put that thing in a museum, and also I think we should all henceforth refer to it as "the relic" rather than "the bolt." May 17, 2017
Mac P
Denver, CO
  5.9
Mac P   Denver, CO
  5.9
Gear Beta: Considering the recent weekend whipper and an earlier comment about someone getting evac'd due to a whipper at the top of P1, take a red torque nut or similar size hex to protect below the final bulge move on P1. It will slide perfectly into a horizontal with the mini roof holding it in place. A cam would be fully umbrella'd but a really large regular nut might work in the same spot too. I fell pulling the bulge and only took a 20 footer because the torque nut held. May 9, 2017
matthoffman
  5.9
matthoffman  
  5.9
Climbed this route on 5/2/17. Some dark wizard needs to climb this with a coat hanger and a set of nut tools to clean this classic line of its 7 fixed cams and other pieces of fixed passive gear. May 7, 2017
slim

  5.9
slim    
  5.9
hmmm, that doesn't really make much sense. if you are going to go through the effort of dragging a 5 up there for a marginal piece, why not just drag a 6 instead for a good piece. it's not THAT big of a weight difference.... May 1, 2017
My $0.02 about P2. Yes, you could bring a 6 but why? If you're leading at the grade then I don't think it is unreasonable to make the moves a little higher in order to place the 5. You can get the 5 tipped out, grovel up just a little bit more, and bump it into a better placement. Leave the 6 at home. Fun route... I thought it was a bit harder than Kor-Ingalls - at least more sustained in places. May 1, 2017
Hobo Greg
My Van
 
Hobo Greg   My Van
 
Freaking incredible. Way looser and scarier than Ancient Art, feels like stiffer moves too. Best view I've ever seen up top. Snow covered mountains AND red rock canyons. Gear, doubles .5 to 3, add an extra three if you're not comfy running out a little bit. Wish we had a 6, 5 works but you have to move up higher to place it than where the 6 would fit. We did three raps since one of our ropes was a 57 meter (chopped) and it was hard to tell if two raps was gonna make it down the North face. Mar 18, 2017
Jeremy Kasmann
Denver, CO
Jeremy Kasmann   Denver, CO
We did it with a #5 but will bring a #6 next time. The 5 was way tipped out on calcite, not confidence inspiring. Bring the 6. Mar 6, 2017
JBowman
Bradenton, FL
JBowman   Bradenton, FL
Did the third ascent of North Chimney with Mike Dudley, around 1969. He got P1 of course, beautiful hand cracks, I get P2, which had not only no bolt but nowhere to place our biggest pin - a 4" bong. I tried but when I hit it it flew back into the bowels of the crack never to be seen again, so all the way to above the OW was unprotected. Then Dudley knocks off a ton of rock at the top of the third while I try to squeeze under a flake to stay alive, ended up covered with red dust and shaking. The topper was rappelling the original bolts on the KI rap route - 1/4"'ers halfway in that creaked when weighted. Overall, a great day in the desert, about 25th ascent of Castleton, as I recall from the summit register. Jan 22, 2017
Steve McDonald
Park City, UT
Steve McDonald   Park City, UT
IMHO, this is a 5 star route. It can't be better than this. It NEVER gets easy and quite difficult throughout. It says 5.8- 5.9. Maybe in old school world? I'd say 10a (slick and burly)...at least on the top first pitch and solid 5.9 on the off width. So good and arse kicking! You can do it with 3 pitches instead of 4. The chimneys are sooo fun! Push thru the 2 pins on the second pitch, cross the chockstone (amazing!) then find a belay station near the 2 'x' chalk marks. Great station then finish up to the top thru the Kor Ingals finish. Perfect!

Schphinkter inducing rappels on the top. Gotta love it! Oct 13, 2016
Ryan Hamilton
Orem
  5.9+
Ryan Hamilton   Orem
  5.9+
Awesome route to do when the rest of the Moab area is blazing hot. Did this on a 105F day and was perfectly cool and comfortable until we got back to the base and started hiking back down. Had the entire tower to ourselves. The chimney keeps it shady and we had enough of a breeze to keep it very comfortable. Jun 13, 2016
Mike Tsuji
Boulder, CO
 
Mike Tsuji   Boulder, CO
 
^ I used a 5, the party in front of me used a 6. Either one will work fine. Apr 24, 2016
Didn't see how a #5 could work at the bolt - my #6 was tipped out (7.5") Apr 19, 2016
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.9
Excellent route. We brought a #4 and honestly would have preferred a #5 instead. A #6 would protect you earlier if tou preferred. Once you can place a #4 the crux is already over. Lots of big loose blocks to be careful around, but very good climbing nonetheless! Apr 7, 2016
Kyle Hill
Denver, CO
  5.9+
Kyle Hill   Denver, CO
  5.9+
Climbed on 03/19/2016 - My two cents on the route: It was amazing! If you love to go HAM on hand cracks, then this is the route for you. If you are like me and get nervous running it out in the dessert, you wont regret having triples for hand size pro on P1. That being said, it is also easy to protect with finger size pieces if you don't have triples for hands. Also, we brought a #6 and were very happy to place it right by the bolt in P2. It fit like a glove and made the awkward stemming a lot more comfortable. We got confused where P2 actually ended and the belay for P3 began, so we ended up just building a belay at the very top of the chimney. It seems like it would have been much better to belay where the two pitons are (one in the left crack, one in the right). This might be obvious to everyone else, but it wasn't for me, so I thought I'd mention it. From there, it's pretty easy to go all the way to the summit, just bring some slings to reduce the drag.
We rapped the North Face route in two raps with two 70 meter ropes tied together. We went from the summit to the first set of chains at a nice ledge, and from there to the ground. If you want to not drag a second rope with you to the summit, just wait up there until another party shows up and rap with them. Mar 21, 2016
Shire-mon
Moab, UT / Boone, NC
 
Shire-mon   Moab, UT / Boone, NC
 
Hi,

Today my partner fell at the top of pitch one of The North Chimney on Castleton Tower and hurt himself bad enough to lower him immediately and begin a rescue. After 2-3 hours of self rescuing we decided to call Search and Rescue to get more hands helping him down. They sent a helicopter, so that happened! ANYWAY,,,, I still have about 10 or so cams up on the first pitch. I intend on going back up to retrieve them ASAP, but weather and time dependent, it could take me until Friday to head back up. So PLEASE, if you get there before me, help me get my gear back. I left it there to perform an epic rescue! My friend is ok with only an injured ankle, which could have been soooo much worse after taking that monster whip! I live in Moab.

Brett Sherman
919-244-8744
shermanbd8744@gmail.com Feb 18, 2016
Canon
 
Canon  
 
Totally doable at the grade If you really want to sew it up (P1), bring x4 #3 BD camalots, otherwise x3 .5-2 C4 Camalots. It takes mostly mid-large gear. For P2, BRING THE #5 BD Cam. If rappelling the north face, watch out for rope catching on a flake 15' climbers above and right the anchors on the first rap FROM the summit. Oct 7, 2015
Matt Pierce
Denver, CO
  5.9+
Matt Pierce   Denver, CO
  5.9+
There is currently a stuck #5 just above "the bolt" - it's been beat up pretty bad with people trying to get it out. I wouldn't plan on it staying there and you should def bring one of your own along. There's also a stuck nut just below the crux at the top of pitch one that I used. A few random thoughts - I thought it was really sustained climbing - especially the endless jamming on pitch 1 - super fun, pitch 2 utilizes your chimney technique for sure, the stepover on pitch 3 is pretty heady when the chimney runs out, we did 3 double 60m rope raps to get down the north face - the ledges and chains are nice - don't miss the second one out to your right as you descend, YES a big bro works nicely to protect the OW on pitch 2, if you want to sew up pitch 1 you can bring 4 #3's and you will use them all... May 6, 2015
Jake Mortensen
Albuquerque, NM
Jake Mortensen   Albuquerque, NM
Does anyone know if the crux can be protected with a big bro? I have no cams larger than 3.5 and I really want to climb this route. Dec 25, 2014
I am heading to attempt the North Chimney route next week and am looking for more information. What I am really trying to find is if there are set anchors at the top of each pitch or if you have to set an anchor. I also want to make sure I have enough gear. It my fist attempt and am not sure what is need and what is not necessary. This is the Gear I have, BD cam #1-6, TCU #00 - 1, full set of nuts, set of Hex nuts #4-10. I have doubles of BD #1-3. Slings and draws of course. Any addition info. or advice would be much appreciated. Apr 25, 2014
Justin Skaare
Boulder, CO
 
Justin Skaare   Boulder, CO
 
Just to reiterate what others have said, bring a #6 BD if you got it. You only need one large cam. I'm really glad we had the 6 and NOT the 5. Apr 18, 2014
yar
mowwab
yar   mowwab
5 friend, yes but kinda tipped. 4 old school (u stem?) bd not going to work out. Apr 4, 2014
Nathan Burns
Dahlonega, GA
Nathan Burns   Dahlonega, GA
Would an old school camalot 4 work for the p2 crux? Mar 27, 2014
Jason James
Provo, UT
Jason James   Provo, UT
Would a Friend #5 work for the offwidth on P2? Not exactly sure how the sizing compares, I just know its between a BD #4 and #5.
please and thank you. Mar 4, 2014
Rich C
 
Rich C  
 
despite previous comments and beta on the web, if you do the NC with a single 60m rope you can rappel Kor Ingalls without a problem. Also I feel like a #5 protecting the OW crux is a good idea if you are not a crack climber. Nov 12, 2013
Climbed it with my wife Franziska a few days ago and had the typical grand desert adventure. Our choosing August is another story, but I fondly recalled the first time I climbed the route with Bobby Rotert in the early 80's and how he seemed to just fly up all that wideness without anything bigger than an old #4 Friend!

For all you Booty Hunters out there, we got a #6 (Quality booty!!!) stuck right next to the Bolt. Franziska worked it for quite some time and said it did some walking. I was way up there, wasn't motivated to descend to check it out and give it a go, so I never saw it...but she is pretty good at gear removal. For the motivated "Heat Of The Summer" Desert climbers out there, I am quite sure the next party up will be pretty stoked at the find!
Good luck, have fun, be kind, and take a lot of water....it is a pretty new BD #6! I hope it brings you many good OW sends and protects you well! Aug 9, 2013
Jerry Dodrill
Bodega, CA
  5.9
Jerry Dodrill   Bodega, CA
  5.9
Climbed N. Chimney on Sunday afternoon May 5th. While stemming the 2nd pitch the WHOLE tower started creaking and groaning. Terrifying! Hope it doesn't fall over any time soon. Great route though. May 8, 2013
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.8+
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.8+
Great climb, although I think this climb had me more afraid of injury or death from loose blocks than Kor-Ingalls. P2 beyond the OW seemed the worst with loose death blocks. P3 was fine in that regard. OW is fun and climbs much differently than the one on Kor-Ingalls.

Regarding pro for the OW, I brought a #5 & #4 C4 Camalot. A #4 isn't that necessary if you brought a #5, but I would have preferred a #6. Seriously, while you can get by with a smaller large cam, if you have a #6 you will be happier to have that along, as otherwise you have to climb about half of the offwidth (and toughest part IMO) before you can get the #5 in as your first real piece of gear on the pitch. OW isn't that tricky as long as you aren't afraid of slipping on the calcite. May 4, 2013
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
 
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
 
Sam is right...bolt is unnecessary at best and dangerous at worst, especially with the common availability of #5 and #6 (I place them both). All you Really need for this route is 1 set thru #5, 5 or 6 long runners, short cordelette and maybe doubles in the hand sizes. Oct 2, 2012
Greg D
Here
 
Greg D   Here
 
I'm with Sam. Leave the bolt alone. The wide protects well with a big piece. I placed an old number 4 and clipped the bolt for nostalgia. Let's keep a little adventure out there. Sep 5, 2012
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.8-
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.8-
Amazing. First pitch is the best, varied 5.8 dual cracks, can be climbed with a single set of cams to 3, just walk the #3. Pitch two and the off width funkness, clipped the bolt with a screamer for kicks O.O and placed the #5. Quite mellow if you just commit to the wideness. P 3 and 4 can be made hard or easy 5.7 just be smart. The final pitch shared with kor ingalls is sporty and a great finish. Could've done in 1.5 hrs pack to pack if the party in front of us didn't zipper every pitch and announce every move while cursing the bolt for half an hour.... I think people should be a competent 5.9 climber before they try this route because turning an hour or so climb into a grade III seems off. Be courteous and let quick parties pass. Sorry but my honest opinion. Sep 4, 2012
ben jammin
Moab, UT
  5.8
ben jammin   Moab, UT
  5.8
.... or a 5, your choice. Can be done in 3 pitches with good rope management on the 2nd pitch.

Oh, and if the FA party didn't have the bolt why is it there again? Aug 29, 2012
Chris Anderson
Lake Stevens, WA
Chris Anderson   Lake Stevens, WA
I have only climbed this once, but after spending my first year in Moab learning trad for the first time and drooling at this route, then returning my second year to climb it I have heard many things.

Bottom line..BRING THE NUMBER 6 CAMALOT!!!
it is a life saver, you only need one but it protects the off-width at the beginning of the second pitch and protects is well. Aug 29, 2012
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
I spent a full season right next to North Chimney and saw most parties show up without the #5. They then complained, as they should, when they got to to "the move". I even saw one group that brought the #5 to the base, but then decided not to take it on the route.

Just carry the big cam, people.

The rating is "old school" 5.8. I'd call it 10- now.

And one more time, the discussion of replacing the bolt is not about safety. With the cam you have safety. Its about convenience. Its more convenient to clip a bolt than place a cam, so people want the bolt. I again say that the bolt is not necessary and FA did not have it. He also didn't have any cams and lacked sticky rubber.

So carry the cam and ignore the bolt. The really bad bolt. In my opinion, if you find 10- desert pretty hard, your rack should be a double set of cams with a couple extra wide hands pieces and maybe cut down on the finger pieces, four slings with biners, and perhaps a small set of nuts. One number five will work... Jun 16, 2012
Topher M.
moab, ut
Topher M.   moab, ut
Climbed the N. Chimney again yesterday to catch the solar eclipse from the top. I got to the base to find a single party of EIGHT climbers on the route! WTF? They hogged the route for the entire day AND were hauling three bags/packs up the chimney! Seriously dumb, rude and dangerous given the number of loose blocks up there. They were also top-roping people up then throwing ropes down for the next climbers. This is a classic desert tower route, not some top-rope crag! That was total bullshit! Get a clue, and have some respect for the resource and other climbers. May 21, 2012
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
  5.9
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
  5.9
Agreed that this is considerably harder than 5.8 by my usual standards. Just be advised that towers have their own standards of grading! Beautiful route. #5 Camalot was perfect for getting through the offwidth--there are some footholds inside the offwidth you can use to get the thing set, and then use it as a point of aid to get into a nice secure position if you're a punter like me. May 4, 2012
Did this route yesterday and didn't find the emerald earring sorry :( I feel fairly confident on desert climbs and towers and I was stoked to have a #4 at the crux. Next time ill just take a #5 no #4 and not clip the star drive, its worthless anyway. It's a really fun route and the easiest tower route I've done beside the south six shooter but way better climbing than the six. I've never seen so many stuck pieces on a route. A nut, tricam, rope, and at least three maybe four cams. Not to mention the three cigarette butts and a half filled plastic water bottle. Pieces I understand but please clean up after yourself and respect the area. Its becoming more and more of a zoo and the animals need to learn to be their own keepers. People go out there for the beauty and leaving trash is a blatent slap in the face and act of disrespect to all future climbers. That being said; super fun route and I'll definitely do it again. And it's not 5.8

Edit: Take a #6 and leave the five at home Apr 23, 2012
Lost a sentimental gold emerald stud earring on this route three days ago.... It was worth it, but if you happen to find it I'd appreciate an e-mail.


cara.h.dolan@gmail.com Apr 23, 2012
Nolan Robertson  
  5.8
Fun climb, first tower lead, The crux on p2 was scary, protected by a bolt that creaks under the weight of a quickdraw. i feel as though it would not take a fall at all. A #6 camalot would work there, i recommend that because the fall would land you on a ledge without good pro.

2 sets of cams to handsize, with and extra handsize, a #3 and #4 camalot worked great, would have traded my #4 camalot for a #5 friend though, brought nuts, didnt use them.

linked p3 and p4, didnt need gear till you're heading for the top anchors.

As for rapping, I used the north face, with 1 70m rope, took 4 raps to get to the ground. the last rap didnt touch when we dropped the rope, but with weight on it(165lbs) the rope stretched enough to put us on the ground. Apr 11, 2012
The weather, route selection, and just difficulty kept us from finishing the North Chimney today. We were shivering belaying and then the first pitch beat us up. Time to come back on a warmer day or choose the south facing Kor-Ingals. If you are coming down anytime soon, bring some down and be sharp. Have fun. Nov 11, 2011
Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
  5.9
Nathan Scherneck   Portland, OR
  5.9
As suggested, a BD #5 (or #4.5) can be placed to backup the bolt, but I think a #6 would be a better fit. I'm 6'2" and I placed a #5, at my full reach, before committing to the OW moves and I thought it was a bit undercammed. Oct 26, 2011
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
Climbed North Chimney this past weekend. The bolt on the 2nd pitch is ready to pop out and can't hold much more than body weight. You definitely want a #5 or even a #6 cam to supplement the bolt. A #4 does fit but not until you are well above the bolt. There's good face climbing to the left of the off-width. Felt about 5.10 or so. It's a good option if off-width isn't your thing. Oct 18, 2011
e Dixon
Durango, Colorado
 
e Dixon   Durango, Colorado
 
The bolt on the offwidth is definitely junk, not confidence inspiring, but the wideness is short. Obviously possible to do without the big cam, but it might be comforting if unsure. As far as the descent, rapping the North Face is the way to go. Use double ropes, as a single 70m comes up a little short. IMO this is the best easy route up Castleton...better than the Kor-Ingals. Jun 21, 2011
Kurt Prond
Bozeman, MT
Kurt Prond   Bozeman, MT
Definitely bring a #6 for the offwidth. The "bolt" is an old star drive that sticks halfway out with a hanger that appears to made out of tinfoil. I used it, but wished I had brought the #6.

Also, do not try to rap the North Face with a 70m!!! Even though it is published in the "Best of Moab" guidebook. A 70m leaves you 10 feet short! Jun 20, 2011
JacobD
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JacobD   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Found a cam about halfway up pitch 3, looks like it was part of something someone bailed off of. If you tell me the make and model and the gear marking I'd be happy to get it back to you. Mar 14, 2011
jacktheburro
Denver
jacktheburro   Denver
I lost or left a pair of Miuras at the base of the North Chimney this past weekend. Didn't realize it until Sunday morning, after we'd been up there Saturday. If anybody happened to pick them up, I'd really, REALLY love to get them back. Please drop me a line if you can help.

-John
720-394-6905 Oct 19, 2010
Climbed this route last Thursday with my wife, very fun!

Rack: doubles to #1 C4, triples 2/3 C4, 1 #4, 1#5. The triples felt adequate on the first pitch as I placed a few more 3's towards the bottom and the majority of the 2's near the end of the pitch. Used the #5 C4 at the bolt on the 2nd pitch and the 4 later in the 2nd pitch.

The Climb: Excellent first pitch! After multiple days at the creek this pitch felt much easier than what I was expecting, I agree with the statement that there are multiple 5.8 moves but with really good rests, just keep your eyes out for feet and be creative. Crux wasn't bad at all, really good gear just keep getting your feet up. Belay at bolts 5.8

2nd pitch wide from the get go and with a manky bolt to boot! I wouldn't trust that thing, just have your 2nd haul the 5 for the rest of the route and feel confident in the fact that you don't need to use this thing. Overall the wide moves weren't bad just trust your feet and it'll be over before you know it. This pitch varied several times for me and I actually felt like this pitch was harder than the first. I don't know if that was from the fact that i'd been climbing in the creek for the week so the first pitch was easy or the fact that this pitch was more mentally taxing because I felt like I was going to die from a chockstone at any second! At the very end of the chimney climb to the right under the massive chockstone and build a belay on a small ledge. Belay for me took a 1, .5 and blue tcu. Careful to not knock rocks off the ledge. 5.8+

3rd pitch was the forgettable one of the climb which we linked into the last for a great final pitch. The north chimney pitch ascends the corner under a big chockstone to a ledge where it joins with the KI. The last pitch of the KI gives you great flake face climbing up over some exposure to the bolted belay just below the top. Really a fun way to finish the route after climbing up the forgettable 3rd pitch. Definitely combine 3 & 4.

Spent some time on the summit and then did 3 double 60M rope raps down the North Face to the bags.

Overall a great way to summit castleton and in my opinion more than the first pitch is worth the trip I can honestly say i've never climbed anything like the 2nd pitch, go to the summit! Oct 18, 2010
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9+
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.9+
We exited left at the top of the third pitch following our otherwise reliable friends who were climbing ahead of us. Apparently their guidebooks says to go left despite it being obvious to go straight up. Going left pretty much sucked although it was airy. You have to belay out on the edge due to rope drag. Getting back to the Kor Ingalls involves angling left across a scary big rocking block to a belly crawl. To get to the top in one pitch involves major rope drag. Oct 14, 2010
cshuey77 shuey
Asheviile,nc
  5.9-
cshuey77 shuey   Asheviile,nc
  5.9-
classic first pitch!! bag the rest of it. May 27, 2010
nick.laws
  5.9
nick.laws  
  5.9
I agree that a Camalot #5 is very nice to have on this route, especially if you have never climbed offwidth routes before. It came in handy in two or three places (depending if you traverse in to the chimney on the last pitch).

I also brought a couple #4's, which I believe were both used on P2.

And I had a standard rack of nuts but didn't use a single one because I took a triple set of cams from .5 to #3, plus a few small ones. May 25, 2010
Catherine Conner
Phoenix, AZ
Catherine Conner   Phoenix, AZ
Did this route with Steve and Brenda-great day-excitement all the way from the approach through to the raps in high winds, to the final hike back down and out. This was my first desert tower in Utah-tower climbing is a little spooky IMO-if you wanted to bring a #5 cam-it would get used by the freaky star bolt on p2 that you can look all the way to the back of the hole it's in-wow-thankfully Steve lead this pitch. I thought p2 was the crux-hope to learn how to climb off-width-felt pretty clueless. I liked this whole route and hope to do it again (I thought it seemed like 5.9 sections on 1 and 2). May 6, 2010
Umph!  
Good stuff, and great views toward the Fishers. A little chossy/sketchy for the 3rd pitch step-across and finish. 1st pitch great, 2nd pitch really good.
3 stars.
Sustained 5.14c VS R X + PG13! Mar 16, 2010
russellHOBART
Durham, NC
 
russellHOBART   Durham, NC
 
I found a set of fat hexes a great help. Whatever the rating (5.8 or 5.9), it felt like a 'serious' climb. The next day we did Stolen Chimney on Ancient Art and despite the harder rating it was a much more comfortable climb. Nov 10, 2009
Dan Lay
  5.9
Dan Lay  
  5.9
Amazing climb, well worth the effort. Go Right at the top of 3rd pitch, and finish with some stemming. Sep 18, 2009
jmeizis
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9- PG13
jmeizis   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9- PG13
I climbed both the North Chimney and K-I on the same day back in April. The climbs are honestly like twins both formed from the same crack running through the entire formation it seems. K-I gets sun most of the day and was fairly sustained but I never felt like the moves got past 5.8. The questionable bolts on the infamous crux pitch had other gear nearby and were therefore not as scary as I thought they would be.

North Chimney on the other hand didn't feel very sustained but the cruxes were pretty in my face. It was also cold and windy on that side of the formation, probably better to climb it on a hot day. I also never felt any of the moves got above 5.8 although it was a little strenuous and awkward at the beginning of each pitch. I lead the second pitch since I got the classic pitch on K-I and that spinning sheet metal hanger with not other gear in made me nervous. I might have gotten a little tunnel vision because I didn't see any other gear for a while and was practically pissing my pants.

All in all I'd say both climbs are in the 5.8+/5.9- area. The crux of K-I is more technical I felt and was two moves that I could say felt 5.9. The North Chimney was just thuggery and the moves were mostly difficult in that I had to squeeze my little ass up there with my knees by my ears half the time. K-I is higher quality in some ways but much more crowded. Although when I climbed it we actually ended up waiting for two parties on the North Chimney and we only had to wait for one on K-I. Jun 15, 2009
Mike
Phoenix
  5.9
Mike   Phoenix
  5.9
This is lots of fun and of course has one of the best summits around. 5.8+ or 5.9-? I could go with either. Is there really a difference?

Agreed that this is an easier lead that Kor Ingalls, and much better quality also. Then again, I thought The North Face was an easier lead than the Kor Ingalls. May 16, 2009
luca moz
italy
  5.9 PG13
luca moz   italy
  5.9 PG13
I did the route this summer and found it a good 5.8 with a 5.9 move at the top of pitch one and another at the of with the scary bolt on pitch 2. I had a camalot n° 4 and i was unable to back up the bolt: need number 5. I thought it was much easier and more sustained than Kor-Ingalls, and also much much better.
I'd give this route a good 5.9 rating and kor-ingalls a sandbag 5.9... Oct 18, 2008
David Shiembob
slc, ut
  5.9
David Shiembob   slc, ut
  5.9
A great route, definitely physical for 5.8. In contrast to the above poster's comment, our 70m rope came up a good 8 feet short on the first rappel on the N Face. Sep 26, 2008
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
The first pitch is worth 4+ stars, the rest of the route is just to get you to the top. Since you can rap the N face with a single 70m and lower off the first pitch, if I remember correctly with a 70m also, do another route, rap and do the first pitch. I've done the N Face and the first pitch of the N Chimney in the middle of August and it was not too bad, of course we were hiking down by about 1 pm. Sep 23, 2008
Andrew Carson
Wilson, WY
  5.9
Andrew Carson   Wilson, WY
  5.9
There is now a 'modern' double-bolt anchor at the top of the first pitch, set up for rapping. We did this route 5/30/08 and were the only party on the tower. That's gotta be rare in this day and age. One logical belay for the top of the second pitch has a 2" bong on the left and a welded angle of some kind to the right. Just one choice. Still, I backed up the angle as I led by. We broke up the pitches a little differently than others because of gear availability. Loose stuff on the route was mostly gone. Gravity never rests. Jun 1, 2008
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
I agree with Kay, take triples up to #3 camalot for the first pitch. Having something bigger than a #4 (all we took!) for the crux of the 2nd pitch would have made things a lot less tenuous. And to the party who found the Spirit biner my partner dropped while cleaning the first pitch: THANK YOU for leaving it on my pack. You rock! Apr 21, 2008
denise 911
fort collins, co
  5.9 PG13
denise 911   fort collins, co
  5.9 PG13
nice day - bit chilly at the belay stations. We passed the trail to the north face of the tower twice - at the first fork take the right towards the tower (left goes towards the rectory). Watch for a small branch that goes straight uphill to the left towards the base of the north face. If you miss it you end up around the south side at Kor Ingalls. Nice big boulders to scramble over to get to base.
Overall very fun route Mar 30, 2008
Kevin Sainio
Durango, CO
  5.9
Kevin Sainio   Durango, CO
  5.9
North Chimney has been getting a lot of traffic lately. Much of the loose stuff mentioned is either easily avoidable or gone altogether. My partner and I did it in four pitches, however it can be done in 3. Also, I took a single rack with doubles of .75 to 3 and ran out of "good" gear about 20 feet before the crux on the first pitch. Next time I will take triples of 2's and 3's. No need to make an anchor at the 2nd belay as there is a hex, bong, (maybe a tri-cam) and a nut all fixed. Two seventies gets you to the ground in two raps with extra rope to spare off the North Face. Apr 16, 2007
Rob L
Durango, CO
  5.9-
Rob L   Durango, CO
  5.9-
Great climb, fantastic summit. We linked pitches 3&4 together, which made for 3 nice long pitches for the route. A 4.5 was key for the OW on P2. As noted, lots and lots of loose rock as you exit the chimney on climber's right, use caution. Two double rope raps (60m) down the North Face just barely brought us to the ground. Apr 4, 2007
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
"Chud": glad you and your buddy made it down in one piece. The upper pitches of NC are indeed in bad shape (more so than your typical desert route). I wish you had read my CONDITION REPORT from 3 months ago (top of COMMENTS section):

"Currently (10/13/06), due to the recent rain, the North Chimney is horrendously loose after the first pitch (P3 in particular is in very poor shape, with many loose, stacked blocks). This is an accident waiting to happen, so please be extra careful or better yet, avoid it altogether for the time being." Jan 13, 2007
chud
Norge, Virginia
chud   Norge, Virginia
As my first desert tower this climb will Always be special to me even though I almost died. Enthralled by Moab and eager to climb after a couple of days at the Creek. I buddied up with these guys Scott And Adam who I'd met at Potash Road. I led the first pitch but when Scott was half way up he got a bad feeling and told me to lower him off despite my protests. (Later I was soo glad he did). Instead Adam came up climbing quickly and efficiently. I led the second and was so impressed that I handed him the rack for the third. About fifty feet up the third pitch Adam accidentally kicked a couple of milk crate sized blocks lose that wizzed passed me by inches. Startled I screamed ROCK ROCK ROCK and Scott barely got out of the way at the base as the Rocks smashed onto the large boulder at the base. Thank God he prophetically lowered as one of us would have surely been hit at the top of the second pitch. Shaken but OK we summited only to find that our second rope had been cut over half way thru by the rockfall. The mini-epic continued when our good rope got stuck on the rappel and I made the decision to leave it as darkness was now setting in. (unknowingly we rapped the chimney instead of the Kor-Ingalls, Rap K-I or N. face) We now had to rap the last two pitches with a rope that was marginal at best. I remember rapping off the end of the rope at the same time I grabbed the slings at the top of the first pitch for the rope was barely long enough. I must have the best guardian angel out there because we all survived intact. I actually went back the next day and bribed the only two climbers there to recover my new supersafe from the route. In closing, the route is great but be ever vigilant for large loose blocks littering the upper pitches. I had my helmet on but it wouldn't have mattered given the size of these blocks. Jan 13, 2007
Mark Michaels
Draper, UT
  5.9 PG13
Mark Michaels   Draper, UT
  5.9 PG13
Did the N. Chimney on 10/13/06. The first pitch is excellent, though the crux is probably among the hardest "5.8" moves I've encountered. The 2nd pitch OW isn't too bad, but the bolt "protecting" the OW is a 1/4 inch starhead drive in, half way out and bent! I was glad to have a #4 Camalot...a second #4 or a #4.5-5 Camalot (older style Camalot sizes...not C4) could be placed on this pitch if OW scares you. Be prepared to backup the "anchor" atop pitch 2. It consists of 2 marginal pins. I fixed a #10 hex to back up the bong. There are PILES of loose rock on the ledges at the top of the 3rd pitch chimney...if you're there when no one else is around, toss some off! The route was very dirty the day we did it, perhaps due to the epic rains the week before. Overall, I enjoyed this route, but thought the Kor-Ingalls was more memorable. Save the N.Chimney for a HOT day, and enjoy the sun and scenery on the K/I when temps are cool to moderate! Oct 16, 2006
toddt  
I found the North Chimney to be a much more fun climb than the Kor-Ingalls. Much less groveling up off-widths. Pitch 1 eats a lot of gear. I did the crux move at the top of pitch 1 with a tipped out number 1 Camalot. Next time I'll definitely have a number 2 for that. The off width for pitch 2 I found to be easier than the crux of pitch 1. We climbed up left at the top of pitch 3 and did a wild jump across the top of chimney. One of the most memorable parts of the climb.
The top is very exposed if there's lightning in the area.
Highly recommended. Aug 14, 2006
Does anyone know if you can link p2 and p3 together with a 60m rope? Oct 24, 2005
Tyson S Arp
  5.9-
Tyson S Arp  
  5.9-
My wife and I climbed this route on a beautiful April day this year. Just wanted to post a link to our trip report. Dec 23, 2004
vince pierce
  5.8+
vince pierce  
  5.8+
GREAT climb! The first pitch is so good. Handjam after handjam for 160 feet. Plenty of rests and plenty of pro. The crux of P-1 is definately the bulge at the top. The pitch 2 offwidth crux was not nearly as bad as i thought it would be (and i have flailed on a 5.7 ow in lcc). However, this route keeps coming at you! Don't be fooled into thinking you are done with it after the crux, as there are plenty of 5.8 moves left. WARNING! About twenty feet up the third pitch you will see two sets of slings on the left wall above the giant chockstone. Pretend they are not there! I stepped across to the left wall, made some moves on top of it and found myself quickly off route. To get back on route i walked across the chockstone. That was, uhhh, thrilling. Just stay IN the chimney even though it looks kinda crappy. P-4 belay is the obvious flat spot between the main tower and the pillar to yr left. There are no anchors. P-4 is about the last forty feet of the Kor-Ingalls route and is full of sweet and easy face moves with HUGE exposure. What a blast. We did it in december on a clear day, upper 50's with no wind. I wouldn't go much colder than that. Dec 13, 2004
aka North Chosspile. First pitch is good though. Mar 29, 2004
I brought a double set of cams and ran out of big stuff about 20 feet before the crux, I wan't exactly sewing up the whole route either. I put a couple big nuts into places that weren't designed for nuts, they would have been speed bumps at best. There is a seam that takes good, small nuts just before the crux. It would have bee nice to have another #2 and #3 camalot. Mar 22, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
Re: sleeping on top, cool idea! The top is flat and could sleep 10. A great idea, but not if electrical storms are around. The N. Chimney gets sun very early, but is in the shade after about 10AM. In July, it might be bearable to climb in the late afternoon, although the approach would suck in the heat. The approach is longer and looser than it looks, hauling overnight junk up this would be a pain. Also I would not haul up the North Chimney, there is a lot of loose rock at the top and it's, er, a chimney. Kor-Ingalls would be better for hauling, or N. Face. Maybe climb up N. Chimney and rap down N face, then jumar it, hauling your overnight bag? Jul 1, 2003
E.T.  
I'm breaking out of Colorado on a road trip and could use some beta.

How big is the top of the tower? Could you sleep on it? Would it be ill-advised?

How bad is the sun? Can I climb middle of the day or is that really going to suck?

Also since I'm not familiar with the area what do I need to do to not piss of the locals and make more access issues for the area? Jun 30, 2003
Will Cobb
Flagstaff, AZ
Will Cobb   Flagstaff, AZ
My girlfriend and I climbed the first two pitches on this route last Friday. (Thundering skys convinced us to back off at the top of the second pitch.) I would certainly give the first two pitches three stars as they were fun, contained a variety of moves, and kept me honest.

After reading all the debate on this page regarding which cams to bring or leave behind, and since I am a much better hiker than climber, I brought both a #4.5 and #4 camalot on this climb. As stated above, the 4.5 fits great right at the bolt. I walked the 4.5 up until I could reach up and slide the #4 in. I then walked the #4 up and placed it behind a chockstone with a long runner. The 4.5 would have made a great first piece of gear right off the second belay as well. I enjoyed the security of having the 4.5 in addition to the old bolt while sliding up that OW. Not everyone needs that kind of security. It is a nasty fall though if that bolt were to shear and you didn't have it backed up with anything.

As far as the rating goes I would call the route sustained 5.8 with two 5.9 cruxes. We were actually surprised at how sustained the first pitch felt even with so many great rest stances. I can see calling it 5.8 though as many desert routes have conservative grades.

Next time we will step it up a notch and tackle the Kor-Ingels route. Need a little more OW training time first though. :) Jun 23, 2003
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
Scott--with a #4, you have to clip the bolt, and do a move to get right up to it, then you can reach up and place the #4, and it is very good. You can do all this before committing to the crux moves. A 4.5 would make things easier, you could place it before you even get to the bolt. The only reason I responded to your comment is because I wouldn't want people to get the idea that there is other good pro there. The moves felt pretty far below my limit but I was still happy to have some good pro.

I agree that the rest of the route is pretty sewn-up--if you bring the big cam, then overall this climb has significantly better gear than the Kor-Ingalls, IMO. May 29, 2003
Scott Conner
Lyons, CO
Scott Conner   Lyons, CO
Charles, you are definitely right about the bolt being terrible. It looks like it has already seen some hard falls and is probably ready to succumb to the next one; or maybe not, but I wouldn't want to test it. Does a #4 Camalot even fit in this crack? It looks much too wide even for a #4.5.

I own a #4.5 but not the #4. I agonized over whether or not to bring it right up until we started hiking and ultimately decided againsed it. We were trying to be fast and light since temps were getting up to 100* on Tuesday. We were back at the van by 11:30am, thankfully. But, I surly would have been glad if I had the 4.5 at the time...

If you find yourself here w/o a large cam, a medium sized piece can be plugged into the crack, eight or so feet below the bolt (deep in a chimney). Not the best placement but better than nothing. May 29, 2003
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
I don't think it's a question so much of being a bold leader, but simply that there is no other good pro if you don't have the #4 camalot (or something bigger) at the crux of pitch 2. The bolt is terrible, much worse for example than the bolts on Kor-Ingalls. If it pulls, you might fall down past your belayer and almost certainly get hurt. I too felt very solid on this section--it didn't seem too hard--but I was happy to have the #4, given that I considered it my only real pro here. I'd recommend at least that anyone who leads in the 5.9/10 range take it--if you feel at all insecure on this section (which some consider the route crux), you'll be glad. May 29, 2003
Scott Conner
Lyons, CO
Scott Conner   Lyons, CO
Superb crack climb. Sustained at 5.7/5.8 with a few slightly more difficult moves and pretty sewn up except for the OW on the second pitch which is quite awkward.

I'd recommend continuing to the top from the 2nd belay and doing in 3 pitches total unless the sun is really baking (great shade in the corridor before the last pitch) or there is a party on Kor-Ingalls.

We rapped the North Face and it took four single 60m rope rappels. The distance for the last rap was about 110' and required a short down climb.

For a rack, I took: Stoppers- 1 set, Cams- (singles) green alien through .75 Camalot, two red, two yellow Camalots, and one 3 and 3.5 Camalot. If I did the route again, I'd leave the 3.5 behind. I felt fine on the OW without a giant cam and I'm not a particularly bold leader. May 29, 2003
Aki
Aki  
I just wanted to thank my climbing partner Paul C for leading the entire climb for me as this was my first tower and it was bone chilling cccoold. The ambient temperature was around 40 f and a chilling wind roared up that shaded chimney the entire climb, we lost feelings in our fingers and toes. You never trusted your feet and fingers were to stiff to fiddle with gear. Every move became incredibly hard and this was the first time in 3 years I ever worried about Paul on lead. The only comforting thoughts were the hot tub he promised would be at the top, me climbing this tourist style (climbing second) and he's climbed this 4 times before. As for anyone new to this type of climbing I would recommend you never climb in this type of cold, it's just not fun and it is simply dangerous for the lead. As far as the climb itself anyone new to offwidths should practice on a few before you do this. This was my first time feeling stuck but kinda happy I was stuck so I won't fall but at the same time worrying I may not make it up and my lead would have to climb down and rescue/laugh at me. What a strange feeling. Oh and for anyone new to this type of exposure the rap off the North side is nuts but fun. Again, Thanks Paul! Mar 31, 2003
just a quick little something. i climbed this route a couple of springs ago, and found it to be very nice. i did happen to bring a #4 with me and it was very nice right at that old spinner. some dude and his girlfriend who tried to race past us as we were gearing up scorned me for bringing it, but as we were heading up the last part of the chimney i could hear him below cursing as his #3 was just a little small. the move isn't bad there, but some added pro never hurt anyone. Dec 31, 2002
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.9
I thought the route was really sustained 5.8 with a 5.9 move at the top of pitch one and another at the bolt on pitch 2. All in all, I thought it was much easier than Kor-Ingalls, and also much much better. Fantastic route. Mar 25, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
I agree with Charles, this climb is definitely easier than the Kor-Ingalls. And please, lets reserve personal attacks for email. Feb 20, 2002
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
Technically, I thought this was waaaaay easier than the Kor-Ingalls. It's more sustained--nearly every move on the first two pitches is 5.8, but there are also good rests after every move. I'd call it 5.8+ (sorry Kurt!), history or not.

Personally I thought the Kor-Ingalls was not only harder (I led the crux of each climb) but a little bit better (although the first pitch of N.Chimney has the best climbing on either route), but Kurt disagrees with me on both counts! Feb 19, 2002
Kurt Johnson
Estes Park, CO
  5.9-
Kurt Johnson   Estes Park, CO
  5.9-
The climbing definitely felt like 5.9 to me, and both the first and second pitches are rated as such in various guidebooks. While I think climbing history should be honored, it's also conceivable that the first ascentionists, for whatever reason, rated it a grade easier than it should have been. This happens today and it happened back then. Some do it deliberately, some not. But either way, it makes sense to update ratings based on how the route feels to the average climber. It's been done to Bastille Crack and Stettner's Ledges, among others, for better or for worse; but in the end I feel it does a service to the climb and to those who climb it to give it a rating that's as accurate as possible.

As for gear, doubles of cams up to a #3 Camalot and a set of stoppers(rarely used), plus a #4 Camalot worked well for me. I also used a screamer on the old and extremely sketchy-looking bolt, which I backed up with the #4, however, if you have a #4.5 you'll be able to get it in at about bolt-level, instead of having to go a little higher to place the #4. Also, the anchor at the top of pitch 2 is fixed with 2 pins and an old cam or something. Be extra careful when pulling on to the ledge as you exit the main chimney on pitch 3 as it's littered with rocks of all sizes right to the edge, and the jumble of chockstones above this, just before the belay ledge looks like an accident waiting to happen. Dec 19, 2001
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
A helmet is strongly recommended on this climb as there is a lot of loose junk lying around on pitch 3 - it is very easy to knock stuff off with your rope even if careful. Of course a helmet is always a good idea in the desert, but I just thought I would mention it as this route tends to get rather crowded. Nov 1, 2001
Ben Folsom  
 
I entered this route at 5.8 because that is what it was originally rated. I believe that ratings are becoming softer and softer, and all this upgrading of routes, especially in the desert is detrimental to the history of climbing there. The ratings in the desert are stout, it's always been that way and it needs to continue to be that way. That is part of the allure of climbing there. I really don't care much about the numbers, but for the sake of climbing history, I just don't think there should be all this upgrading that is taking place in the newer guidebooks.

Ben Oct 31, 2001
I'd give this route at least a 9-. A 5.8 leader is likely to have issues with two spots in particular.

For the rack, take 1 set of nuts and 1 set of cams plus a few extra hand-sized pieces to make protecting the first pitch more straightforward. A screamer for the bolt on P2 might be wise.

While this route climbs an enourmous chimney, it has virtually no chimney climbing. The P2 OW is short and not that bad. I think a #4 camalot would work there, but I'm not sure as I didn't have one.

At the top of the chimney (by the huge chockstone), exit climber's right. Oct 30, 2001