Avg: 3.6 from 684 votes
|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Burgette and Erickson, 1970|
|Page Views:||115,459 total · 527/month|
|Shared By:||Ben Folsom on Oct 23, 2001|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Beginning October 1, 2010, Utah Open Lands will require free registration to camp in the primitive camping area. Registration will be accomplished at the Utah Open Lands website.utahopenlands.org
P1- Climb the double hand cracks in the corner. This pitch is intimidating, but there are many rests. The crux of the pitch is at the top where you climb over a short bulge, and then up to a small ledge to the belay.
P2- Climb a short but tricky 5.8 offwidth protected by an old bolt. Place a big cam here instead of clipping the useless bolt. Then climb the chimney above climbing over chockstones and varied cracks to a belay on a small ledge. The belay takes hand size cams.
P3- Climb up the hand crack up to a stemming move at the top of the chimney which gets you to a ledge. Climb up easy ground to a ledge where you join the Kor Ingalls.
P4- Climb the last pitch of the Kor Ingalls to the top.
To descend rappel the North Face via three raps or the Kor Ingalls via 4 raps.
You will then rap off, get your rope stuck, and walk painfully and dejectedly, on the ankle that you realize is broken, to the parking area and then be subjected to the crass old nurse with the thick glasses in the Moab Emergency Room (which is hard to find).
Then you get billed and have to schedule that surgery on your ankle, which won't work.
SO—Take a large cam and use it. Seriously, its not much to carry and it's an almost necessary piece for tower climbing in the desert. No reason for you to not have it here except laziness and poverty, and poverty doesn't really count in this situ. (Try paying off the emergency room visit instead? Me thinks not.)
As an addition, again, there is no plan to replace this bolt and there shouldn't be. The first ascentionist, Dan Burgeutte, did the route without the bolt and has asked that it not be replaced. As there is protection that protects the move (you are even toproping with the piece!) it would be silly and against the generally accepted ethics of climbers to replace the bolt. Carry the #5.
—Sam Lightner, Jr.