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Routes in Castleton Tower

Arrowhead, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bjornstad Traverse ( The Girdle of Castleton Tower), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1
Black Sun T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Burning Inside T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Discrete Start to Black Sun T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Hollowpoint T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ivory Tower, The T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Kor-Ingalls Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No Other Options V1 5
North Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
North Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
North Face Original Pitch 1 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sacred Ground T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stardust Cowboy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
West Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: westbay, green etc.
Page Views: 4,419 total, 22/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Oct 14, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Registration required for camping starting 01 Oct 2010. Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A wide crack tour de force. Would get 3 stars except for some loose rock. A good route for beating the heat and the crowds on Castleton.

Approach as for North face. From the ledge where NF starts, traverse right about 50' to the WF.

P1. 150' 5.9+ (stout). Up the crack system with lots of cups and some stemming. Carefully pass some loose blocks in an overhang, eventually ending up at a good stance. This pitch consumes a lot of gear. Belayer should be well sheltered for this pitch.

P2. 80' 5.8. Continue to a belay with modern bolts.

P3 100' 5.11-. Starts with a 5.9 squeeze chimney. You can place the #3 BigBro in the back of this but should probably backclean it to avoid ropedrag. Exit the chimney though a roof with hands. Some easier ground leads to the business, a 5" section which is well protected with a 4.5 Camalot. I found the hardest part of this section was an offwidth move at the start; after that, aggresive laybacking gets you quickly through to good hands. The line traverses right some to a five foot section of exposed hands which ends up on a ledge. There is an unnerving breadbox size loose block sitting on this ledge; if the coast is clear, you'd be doing a public service by cleaning this block. The route then goes back left, be careful to arrange your pro so that there is no danger of the rope prying the block off. After heading left, for a stretch of 5.9ish hands the route angles right again on easy, wide terrain to a belay at a stance in a left-facing corner.

P4 60' 5.10-. Head up a wide crack with some face holds and a couple of offwidth moves. Traverse left on somewhat friable rock (Tricams useful), then pullup onto the summit.

Protection

To the best of my memory, we took the following:Single set up to .5 Friend, including nuts.Set of Tricams up to whiteDoubles 1 Friend to 2.5 Friend3 ea 3 & 3.5 Friend2 ea #4 Friend1 #4, #5 Camalot2 #4.5 Camalot1 #3 Big BroA few quckdraws and long slings.

Used everything, would have liked more in 3.5 Friend, 3 Camalot range. Didn't need 2 4.5 Camalots. Could have gotten by w/o the BigBro and the 5 Camalot.

Photos

jakobi
moab, utah
 
jakobi   moab, utah
 
The first two pitches link up nicely and allows you to avoid a less-than-ideal belay stance at the top of pitch one. The "burly, wide" climbing wasn't that bad and overall the climbing is pretty enjoyable, if on any other tower than Castleton it'd be classic. The direct finish is nasty! Oct 13, 2015
Paul Irby
moab, ut
Paul Irby   moab, ut
i would recommend bringing xtra runners. i thought i had enough and wound up with heinous drag on the crux pitch.
and i agree, the direct overhanging finish is way cool! Apr 13, 2012
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
 
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
 
First Ascent:

James Dunn (first solo ascent of new route on El Cap, Cosmosis),
Bill Westbay (first one day ascent of The Nose)
Stewart Green (caught the first ascent of Supercrack on film) Oct 22, 2009
Dana Prosser
Boulder
 
Dana Prosser   Boulder
 
After doing this route, this is the gear that I would recommend:
Set of nuts, single cams from smallest to .4 camalot, double set from 0.5-1 camalot, Triple set from 2-3 camalot, two x #4 friend, and one #4,#5,#6 camalot. Keep in mind that I like having gear nearby, so if you are a bold climber you may get away with carrying less. Sep 29, 2008
Instead of traversing left to finish the last pitch, a nicedirect finish goes straight up overhanging rock in the 5.10range - nice and airy!!! Jan 10, 2006