Avg: 3 from 12 votes
|Type:||Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||westbay, green etc.|
|Page Views:||5,321 total · 23/month|
|Shared By:||david goldstein on Oct 14, 2001|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Beginning October 1, 2010, Utah Open Lands will require free registration to camp in the primitive camping area. Registration will be accomplished at the Utah Open Lands website.utahopenlands.org
Approach as for North face. From the ledge where NF starts, traverse right about 50' to the WF.
P1. 150' 5.9+ (stout). Up the crack system with lots of cups and some stemming. Carefully pass some loose blocks in an overhang, eventually ending up at a good stance. This pitch consumes a lot of gear. Belayer should be well sheltered for this pitch.
P2. 80' 5.8. Continue to a belay with modern bolts.
P3 100' 5.11-. Starts with a 5.9 squeeze chimney. You can place the #3 BigBro in the back of this but should probably backclean it to avoid ropedrag. Exit the chimney though a roof with hands. Some easier ground leads to the business, a 5" section which is well protected with a 4.5 Camalot. I found the hardest part of this section was an offwidth move at the start; after that, aggresive laybacking gets you quickly through to good hands. The line traverses right some to a five foot section of exposed hands which ends up on a ledge. There is an unnerving breadbox size loose block sitting on this ledge; if the coast is clear, you'd be doing a public service by cleaning this block. The route then goes back left, be careful to arrange your pro so that there is no danger of the rope prying the block off. After heading left, for a stretch of 5.9ish hands the route angles right again on easy, wide terrain to a belay at a stance in a left-facing corner.
P4 60' 5.10-. Head up a wide crack with some face holds and a couple of offwidth moves. Traverse left on somewhat friable rock (Tricams useful), then pullup onto the summit.
Used everything, would have liked more in 3.5 Friend, 3 Camalot range. Didn't need 2 4.5 Camalots. Could have gotten by w/o the BigBro and the 5 Camalot.