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Routes in Castleton Tower

Arrowhead, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bjornstad Traverse ( The Girdle of Castleton Tower), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1
Black Sun T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Burning Inside T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Discrete Start to Black Sun T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Hollowpoint T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ivory Tower, The T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Kor-Ingalls Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No Other Options V1 5
North Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
North Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
North Face Original Pitch 1 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sacred Ground T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stardust Cowboy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
West Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, Aid, 920 ft, 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Paul Ross Jeff Pheasent 13/14th April 2001
Page Views: 7,636 total · 36/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Apr 8, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Registration required for camping starting 01 Oct 2010. Details


AKA The Girdle Traverse of Castleton

The climb has some wild situations, and perhaps an unusual experience for localized climbers. .. try it... The climb starts at the Kor- Ingalls. The traverse uses 4 pitches of established climbs and 5 new pitches.Might go in full day.This climb is dedicated to the desert climber and guide book writer Eric Bjornstad.

P1. Pitch 1 Kor route. 5.6 140'
P2. Move belay to right to join P2 Arrowhead Left. Climb this pitch to top of the Arrowhead(junction with Stardust Cowboy). 5.10. 100'
P3. The long Ed Webster bolt ladder of Stardust is followed, then up to the right to belay overlooking North Chimney. 110'
P4. Climb down 20', then over the massive chockstone near the top of P2 on the North Chimney. A traverse right was made across the slab on the right to a bolt at the end of the slab.Lowered down from this , and swing right onto ledges and 3 bolt belay at the top of pitch 2 on the North Face route. 110'
P5. Up ledges to the right, then climb down 12' to a beautifully exposed narrow slab traverse line (some of the bolts used to protect this pitch need hangers, nut and washers in place - bring a half inch wrench, or use wires). Follow the slab crossing the Sun, Moon, and Stars route to an anchor overlooking The West Face route. 110' 5.9+ C1 (With pro now in place it should go all free)
P6. Lower 50' to an anchor on the West Face.
P7. Follow a thin crack up and right to the belay around the corner. C1 5.3
P8. The long superb exposed crack is followed across the West Face to a belay overlooking the Kor route. 80' 5.9 C1
P9. From just up right of the belay, lower down a few feet to a horizontal crack. Follow it and then lower off into the Kor route. C1 170'

Paul Ross.


Two sets of cams from Metolius 00 to #4 friend, many biners for the Webster bolt ladder. Some stoppers.
Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.10 C1
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.10 C1
2017...It is now 16 years after the first traverse/ascent and still no claim of a second ascent.
Is adventure a thing of the past?.....I guess it is .... Jun 30, 2006
Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.10 C1
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.10 C1
Friend, desert pioneer and guide book writer Eric Bjornstad died 17th December 2014. Dec 19, 2014
Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.10 C1
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.10 C1
The second ascent was claimed in 2017 by Jackson Marvell and Wyatt Edwards.... Sixteen years after the first ascent in 2001..They compleated the traverse in a remarkably fast time of about five hours.Jackson complimented us on the first ascent saying "awesome job putting that thing up!" I myself in 2001 found it a really fun trip with great situations. Aug 29, 2017
Imagine how bummed you'd be if you were mid-pitch on, say, the North Face, and then another party pops around the corner above you to claim the belay. Ha! "Oh, hey, there, yeah we're just doing the Girdle Traverse..." Nov 10, 2017
Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.10 C1
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.10 C1
To D-Storm. It happened. Two guys were arriving on the top belay of the North Face when I appeared swinging around from the North Chimney area, one was an American the other I think Italian. . They looked extremely surprised The American asked what I was doing .. I put on a dumb Brit accent and a straight-faced and said: " just wandering around the tower having a look at the various climbs " .. The Italian cracked up... the American lad had a very puzzled look on his face wondering whether I was serious or not ?... fun days Nov 10, 2017

More About The Bjornstad Traverse ( The Girdle of Castleton Tower)