Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 920 ft (279 m), 9 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Paul Ross Jeff Pheasent 13/14th April 2001|
|Page Views:||9,315 total · 37/month|
|Shared By:||USBRIT Ross on Apr 8, 2001|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Beginning October 1, 2010, Utah Open Lands will require free registration to camp in the primitive camping area. Registration will be accomplished at the Utah Open Lands website.utahopenlands.org
The climb has some wild situations, and perhaps an unusual experience for localized climbers. .. try it... The climb starts at the Kor- Ingalls. The traverse uses 4 pitches of established climbs and 5 new pitches.Might go in full day.This climb is dedicated to the desert climber and guide book writer Eric Bjornstad.
P1. Pitch 1 Kor route. 5.6 140'
P2. Move belay to right to join P2 Arrowhead Left. Climb this pitch to top of the Arrowhead(junction with Stardust Cowboy). 5.10. 100'
P3. The long Ed Webster bolt ladder of Stardust is followed, then up to the right to belay overlooking North Chimney. 110'
P4. Climb down 20', then over the massive chockstone near the top of P2 on the North Chimney. A traverse right was made across the slab on the right to a bolt at the end of the slab.Lowered down from this , and swing right onto ledges and 3 bolt belay at the top of pitch 2 on the North Face route. 110'
P5. Up ledges to the right, then climb down 12' to a beautifully exposed narrow slab traverse line (some of the bolts used to protect this pitch need hangers, nut and washers in place - bring a half inch wrench, or use wires). Follow the slab crossing the Sun, Moon, and Stars route to an anchor overlooking The West Face route. 110' 5.9+ C1 (With pro now in place it should go all free)
P6. Lower 50' to an anchor on the West Face.
P7. Follow a thin crack up and right to the belay around the corner. C1 5.3
P8. The long superb exposed crack is followed across the West Face to a belay overlooking the Kor route. 80' 5.9 C1
P9. From just up right of the belay, lower down a few feet to a horizontal crack. Follow it and then lower off into the Kor route. C1 170'