Type: Trad, 130 ft (39 m)
FA: Jimmy Dunn & Doug Snively, 20 March 1974
Page Views: 5,687 total · 23/month
Shared By: david goldstein on May 1, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Is there a climb anywhere that has three independent variations to its first pitch that are better the North Face of Castleton's?

Star rating is compared to other Castleton 1 pitch climbs.

The rightmost of the three N. Face variations.

Climb fun steep 5.10 hands and laybacking with rests for about 60'. The crux comes at the top of a 10' right facing corner, a technical lieback exiting on to a slab.At the top of the slab, clip a bolt in a corner then make an improbable move to establish yourself in the corner. Easy but insecure -- if you blow it, you fall onto the slab -- climbing leads to a fixed pin, and an easy face traverse left. Steep 5.9ish cracks lead to a traverse left to the anchor.

Continue up N Face or, Sacred Ground or rappel to the ground. A single 70m rope just makes it.

Protection Suggest change

Wires, 2ea TCUs, 3ea cams to 2". Long slings.

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