Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: Jay Smith
Page Views: 12,963 total · 57/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Sep 20, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Registration required for camping starting 01 Oct 2010. Details

Description

This route starts about 20ft to the right of the classic north face route. Pitch one 5.11c - excellent climbing up a finger crack with interesting features for the feet, when crack ends work right via fun technical face climbing and up into another crack(crux). Continue up to a slabby ramp and through some loose broken rock to narrow ledge with a bolted belay shared with the north face route.

Pitch two 10a - This pitch is shared with the north face route. Follow the crack up the calcite covered face to the roof(crux), turn the roof via a left leaning crack and proceed up and left to another bolted belay on a excellent ledge.

Pitch three 10b - Move right and up to bolt, then do some tricky face moves left into a right facing corner. Follow corner to another well bolted belay at a good stance.

Pitch four 12b - Time for some sport climbing. Move up and right, power/finesse your way past a small bulge into some technical calcite pulling. Take a good rest at the horizontal and get ready for crux #2. Move up past more technical calcite sidepulls and pinches to another good horizontal. Traverse right under the roof, then up and back left to the anchors.

Note pitches 2 and 3 can be linked with a full 60 meter rope if your willing to run it out in the easier sections. Enjoy TF.

Protection

2-3 each purple tcu to #2 camalot. 1 #3 camalot. Small selection of stoppers. Quick-draws, runners...

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