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Routes in Castleton Tower

Arrowhead, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bjornstad Traverse ( The Girdle of Castleton Tower), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1
Black Sun T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Burning Inside T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Discrete Start to Black Sun T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Hollowpoint T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ivory Tower, The T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Kor-Ingalls Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No Other Options V1 5
North Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
North Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
North Face Original Pitch 1 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sacred Ground T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stardust Cowboy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
West Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: Jay Smith
Page Views: 10,403 total, 53/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Sep 20, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Registration required for camping starting 01 Oct 2010. Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route starts about 20ft to the right of the classic north face route. Pitch one 5.11c - excellent climbing up a finger crack with interesting features for the feet, when crack ends work right via fun technical face climbing and up into another crack(crux). Continue up to a slabby ramp and through some loose broken rock to narrow ledge with a bolted belay shared with the north face route.

Pitch two 10a - This pitch is shared with the north face route. Follow the crack up the calcite covered face to the roof(crux), turn the roof via a left leaning crack and proceed up and left to another bolted belay on a excellent ledge.

Pitch three 10b - Move right and up to bolt, then do some tricky face moves left into a right facing corner. Follow corner to another well bolted belay at a good stance.

Pitch four 12b - Time for some sport climbing. Move up and right, power/finesse your way past a small bulge into some technical calcite pulling. Take a good rest at the horizontal and get ready for crux #2. Move up past more technical calcite sidepulls and pinches to another good horizontal. Traverse right under the roof, then up and back left to the anchors.

Note pitches 2 and 3 can be linked with a full 60 meter rope if your willing to run it out in the easier sections. Enjoy TF.

Protection

2-3 each purple tcu to #2 camalot. 1 #3 camalot. Small selection of stoppers. Quick-draws, runners...

Photos

michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.12
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.12
This route on par with the best I have climbed in Castle Valley.
Here is how the difficulty of the pitches felt ground up and onsight:
P1: 11+
P2: 10
P3: 10+
P4: 12

If you don't want to carry any extra gear, here is what I used or wished I had used:
1x grey metolius or purple c3
Mix it up with these sizes:
2x purple metolius, blue alien, or .2 (3-4 wouldn't go unused)
5x blue metolius, green alien, or .3
3x yellow metolius, yellow alien, or .4
3x orange metolius, red alien or .5 (4 would be nice on P1)
2x .75 C4
1x 1 (2 could be used on P2)
1x 2
Set of stoppers (tiny to fairly large)
Set of alloy offsets (bring the whole set)
Plenty of slings and at least 5 draws Apr 24, 2017
Justin Skaare
Boulder, CO
Justin Skaare   Boulder, CO
On P1 I went right past a bolt to a manky belay instead of left. The movement was awesome, but then we were stuck on a ledge. Anyone know what route that bolt is for? Apr 9, 2017
Abel Jones
Bishop, ca
 
Abel Jones   Bishop, ca
 
Let me 1st agree that this route is great. I've done both 11 starts and the 11c is amazing and felt very similar to the 11b in difficulty but is a lot better. Here is the sad news: I climbed this with my wife yesterday 5/30/16 and ripped off the chunk that forms a nice super chalked up crimp at the start of the 1st boulder problem of the 5.12 pitch. We had waited for 4 days after rain and the rock felt bone dry. I had tried this once before and remember thinking about how it was destined to blow off since there was a visible crack around it. Luckily no one was below us and I retried it and it still goes free with the same grade and what remains is a very nice pinch on solid rock. In my opinion the climb is a little nicer since the suspect rock is gone. The clip that was made from that crimp may be a hair harder. Sorry to anyone who loved this climb in its original state and for messing with a classic in general. May 31, 2016
Aaron Livingston
Moab, UT
  5.12b
Aaron Livingston   Moab, UT
  5.12b
Incredible route! Linked this with Fine Jade and the North Chimney before work yesterday. Fine Jade and North Chimney both in single pitches, fucking stoked! Jul 16, 2015
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
 
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
 
Agree with all the above comments... stellar, especially P1. On P1, the blue Metolius TCU size was money. I had 3 and would have placed 4 had I had it. I'd add a very optional purple C3 for P3. Apr 17, 2014
If you loved this route, definitely put Excommunication on your list. It is just as amazing, probably even better!! Both are awesome tower climbs.. Nov 19, 2007
Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
 
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
 
The best route in Castle Valley. Excellent first pitch - 11d and incredible last pitch. Definately a route to shoot for. Apr 8, 2007
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
  5.12
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
  5.12
Another vote for "awesome route" here. The last pitch was basically two v5 boulder problems separated by a good rest; the first a little harder with a series of slaps up a little arete, and the second easier but more painful, with some tiny calcite crimps and pinches. Sep 17, 2006
d-know
electric lady land
  5.12b
d-know   electric lady land
  5.12b
incredible exposure at one of the coolest places on earth. definately hard for 12-. I was w/Clay on this one and we had a blast.
This is the only way I've gotten up castelton. Twice! Jan 28, 2006
Clayton Rardon
Yucca Valley, CA
 
Clayton Rardon   Yucca Valley, CA
 
Super sick route!! Deserves way more attention than half the other routes on the tower... The rock is unreal on the last pitch!! It is almost like pinching hardened candle wax! It feels hard for the origanl rating of 12-!! Get up on this stellar line.. You can link the middle two pitches with a 70m also... Mar 30, 2005
Max Schon
  5.12b
Max Schon  
  5.12b
Awesome route! First pitch is very sustained with many 5.11 moves. Third pitch is fun and the fourth pitch, well, it's hard. No need for any gear on the last pitch, just five draws. Oct 4, 2004