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Routes in Castleton Tower

Arrowhead, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bjornstad Traverse ( The Girdle of Castleton Tower), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1
Black Sun T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Burning Inside T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Discrete Start to Black Sun T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Hollowpoint T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ivory Tower, The T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Kor-Ingalls Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No Other Options V1 5
North Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
North Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
North Face Original Pitch 1 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sacred Ground T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stardust Cowboy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
West Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Ed Webster and Chester Dreiman, 1982
Page Views: 2,774 total, 26/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Apr 13, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Registration required for camping starting 01 Oct 2010. Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


This great adventure climbs to the summit via a bolt ladder. .

Use either the North Chimney approach or the first 25 foot pitch of Kor-Ingalls to get to the big ledge.

Pitch one is steep and clean all the way, 5.11-. The crux requires Indian Creek style thin hands endurance. It ends with steep 5.9 hands to Ed's first bolt. From there climb up left to the big ledge below pitch two of Arrowhead Left. This bolt helps protect the second. If your skipping the bolt ladder finish, then Kor-Ingall's lowest anchor is the best option back to the trail with a single 70m rope.

Pitch two begins with traversing back right to the pitch one bolt and then moving up a 5.7 arete onto the white face. A fragile 5.10 lieback is done and some loose blocks may need passing before the belay ledge is reached.

Pitch three is the bolt ladder.

Pitch four traverses right into the top of the North Chimney and finishes via Kor-Ingalls. Careful climbing and communication may be needed to keep climbers in the North Chimney safe from loose stuff. There are no anchors on the sub-summit, just dangerously loose rocks. Going to the sub-summit is not part of the route.


See Photo of Sketch.


Bring an almost-Indian Creek rack for 25 meters of steep variable hand jams. I have not done the bolt ladder (yet), but bring aiders because the FA party could no-doubt stretch bolts beyond the limits of french-free.


greg t
Chevy, Silverado
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
Really fun route!

P2 seemed on the harder side of 5.10 if not 11- ( just for a bit ). The loose blocks didn't seem to bad, but I wouldn't trust gear in the flake.

An optional finish for the 4th pitch would be to take the easy handcrack up and left. This joins up with the kor-ingals and avoids the North Chimney. It seemed like a better option for rope drag and communication. Although, use extreme caution with the massive rocker block you crawl up and over around the corner.

You don't need as much gear as the book suggests. You would probably be fine with a double set from red c3 - #1bd with triples in #.75 1x #2, 1x #3. 8x runners and harvest the biners for the 16ish bolt ladder. Dec 10, 2015
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
The bolt ladder pitch is straight forward ..old gear but no problem.Its about a 100' so one needs plenty of biners. Nov 15, 2015