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Early Access
Routes in Castleton Tower
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Arrowhead, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bjornstad Traverse ( The Girdle of Castleton Tower), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 |
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Black Sun T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Burning Inside T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Discrete Start to Black Sun T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Hollowpoint T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ivory Tower, The T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Kor-Ingalls Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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No Other Options V1 5 |
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North Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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North Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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North Face Original Pitch 1 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sacred Ground T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Stardust Cowboy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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West Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 38.651, -109.3678 |
| FA: | Ed Webster and Chester Dreiman, 1982 |
| Page Views: | 4,796 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Ken Trout on Apr 13, 2009 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Access Issue: Registration required for camping starting 01 Oct 2010.
Details
Beginning October 1, 2010, Utah Open Lands will require free registration to camp in the primitive camping area. Registration will be accomplished at the Utah Open Lands website. utahopenlands.org
Description
This great adventure climbs to the summit via a bolt ladder. .
Use either the North Chimney approach or the first 25 foot pitch of Kor-Ingalls to get to the big ledge.
Pitch one is steep and clean all the way, 5.11-. The crux requires Indian Creek style thin hands endurance. It ends with steep 5.9 hands to Ed's first bolt. From there climb up left to the big ledge below pitch two of Arrowhead Left. This bolt helps protect the second. If your skipping the bolt ladder finish, then Kor-Ingall's lowest anchor is the best option back to the trail with a single 70m rope.
Pitch two begins with traversing back right to the pitch one bolt and then moving up a 5.7 arete onto the white face. A fragile 5.10 lieback is done and some loose blocks may need passing before the belay ledge is reached.
Pitch three is the bolt ladder.
Pitch four traverses right into the top of the North Chimney and finishes via Kor-Ingalls. Careful climbing and communication may be needed to keep climbers in the North Chimney safe from loose stuff. There are no anchors on the sub-summit, just dangerously loose rocks. Going to the sub-summit is not part of the route.
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