Avg: 2.6 from 7 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Ed Webster and Chester Dreiman, 1982|
|Page Views:||3,565 total · 26/month|
|Shared By:||Ken Trout on Apr 13, 2009|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Beginning October 1, 2010, Utah Open Lands will require free registration to camp in the primitive camping area. Registration will be accomplished at the Utah Open Lands website.utahopenlands.org
Use either the North Chimney approach or the first 25 foot pitch of Kor-Ingalls to get to the big ledge.
Pitch one is steep and clean all the way, 5.11-. The crux requires Indian Creek style thin hands endurance. It ends with steep 5.9 hands to Ed's first bolt. From there climb up left to the big ledge below pitch two of Arrowhead Left. This bolt helps protect the second. If your skipping the bolt ladder finish, then Kor-Ingall's lowest anchor is the best option back to the trail with a single 70m rope.
Pitch two begins with traversing back right to the pitch one bolt and then moving up a 5.7 arete onto the white face. A fragile 5.10 lieback is done and some loose blocks may need passing before the belay ledge is reached.
Pitch three is the bolt ladder.
Pitch four traverses right into the top of the North Chimney and finishes via Kor-Ingalls. Careful climbing and communication may be needed to keep climbers in the North Chimney safe from loose stuff. There are no anchors on the sub-summit, just dangerously loose rocks. Going to the sub-summit is not part of the route.