Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Ed Webster and Chester Dreiman, 1982
Page Views: 3,184 total · 26/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Apr 13, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Registration required for camping starting 01 Oct 2010. Details

Description

This great adventure climbs to the summit via a bolt ladder. .

Use either the North Chimney approach or the first 25 foot pitch of Kor-Ingalls to get to the big ledge.

Pitch one is steep and clean all the way, 5.11-. The crux requires Indian Creek style thin hands endurance. It ends with steep 5.9 hands to Ed's first bolt. From there climb up left to the big ledge below pitch two of Arrowhead Left. This bolt helps protect the second. If your skipping the bolt ladder finish, then Kor-Ingall's lowest anchor is the best option back to the trail with a single 70m rope.

Pitch two begins with traversing back right to the pitch one bolt and then moving up a 5.7 arete onto the white face. A fragile 5.10 lieback is done and some loose blocks may need passing before the belay ledge is reached.

Pitch three is the bolt ladder.

Pitch four traverses right into the top of the North Chimney and finishes via Kor-Ingalls. Careful climbing and communication may be needed to keep climbers in the North Chimney safe from loose stuff. There are no anchors on the sub-summit, just dangerously loose rocks. Going to the sub-summit is not part of the route.

Location

See Photo of Sketch.

Protection

Bring an almost-Indian Creek rack for 25 meters of steep variable hand jams. I have not done the bolt ladder (yet), but bring aiders because the FA party could no-doubt stretch bolts beyond the limits of french-free.

Photos