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Routes in Castleton Tower

Arrowhead, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bjornstad Traverse ( The Girdle of Castleton Tower), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1
Black Sun T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Burning Inside T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Discrete Start to Black Sun T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Hollowpoint T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ivory Tower, The T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Kor-Ingalls Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No Other Options V1 5
North Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
North Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
North Face Original Pitch 1 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sacred Ground T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stardust Cowboy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
West Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,758 total, 11/month
Shared By: david goldstein on May 1, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Registration required for camping starting 01 Oct 2010. Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


A lot of climbing on this excellent pitch which will improve once it sees enough ascents to clean up some of the choss. Note the star rating is compared to other Castleton 1 pitch routes.

Starts just left of Little White Lieback and right of Stardust Cowboy below a small roof about 20' off the ground above which is a long corner capped by a much bigger roof.

Has a technical crux (00/gray TCU comes in handy) near the ground followed by sustained finger cracks which become a hand crack about 20' below the second roof. Traverse left at the 2nd roof (3.5 Friend), pulling around its end into a hanging handcrack. Follow this to a tricky pod with a rattly finger crack in the back. Ten feet later you finally hit easier climbing, slabs which take you to a rappel station on Stardust Cowboy.

Continue up Stardust Cowboy or rappel to the ground. Note a single 70M rope is not long enough for this rappel.


1 ea #1-#7 RockTCU 3ea .4, 2ea .5, 3ea .75Friend 3ea #1, 2 ea 1.5, 2ea #2, 2ea # 2.5, 1 #3, 1 #3.5A few quickdraws, 2-4 long slings


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this is a jay smith route. we did it in the late 90s the same week iwas privledgedenoughto have gone with him and a guy named paul...tearre or something, up burning within about sixdays earlier. Nov 26, 2005