Type: Trad, 140 ft (42 m)
FA: Jay Smith and Paul Teare
Page Views: 3,117 total · 13/month
Shared By: david goldstein on May 1, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down
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Description Suggest change

A lot of climbing on this excellent pitch which will improve once it sees enough ascents to clean up some of the choss. Note the star rating is compared to other Castleton 1 pitch routes.

Starts just left of Little White Lieback and right of Stardust Cowboy below a small roof about 20' off the ground above which is a long corner capped by a much bigger roof.

Has a technical crux (00/gray TCU comes in handy) near the ground followed by sustained finger cracks which become a hand crack about 20' below the second roof. Traverse left at the 2nd roof (3.5 Friend), pulling around its end into a hanging handcrack. Follow this to a tricky pod with a rattly finger crack in the back. Ten feet later you finally hit easier climbing, slabs which take you to a rappel station on Stardust Cowboy.

Continue up Stardust Cowboy or rappel to the ground. Note a single 70M rope is not long enough for this rappel.

Protection Suggest change

1 ea #1-#7 RockTCU 3ea .4, 2ea .5, 3ea .75Friend 3ea #1, 2 ea 1.5, 2ea #2, 2ea # 2.5, 1 #3, 1 #3.5A few quickdraws, 2-4 long slings


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