Elevation: 6,356 ft
GPS: 38.651, -109.368 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 269,848 total · 1,201/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on May 12, 2002 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Registration required for camping starting 01 Oct 2010. Details

Description

Castleton Tower is probably the most famous desert tower in the world, and was the first major tower climbed in the Moab area. The Kor-Ingalls route is one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America, and Castleton also has one other 5.9 route of the same caliber. Harder classic routes both aid and free exist on its fantastic Wingate sandstone with its unique calcite crust.

Castleton is most climber's first desert tower, and it is common for lines to form on the Kor-Ingalls during the spring and fall. All the free routes are trad, and you should be solid at the grade - this is not a good place to break into 5.9.

Getting There

You will find the campground on Castle Valley road about 1/4 to a 1/2 mile after the cattle guard in the road on the left. From the campground/parking lot hike up the wash following the cairns until you get to a dirt road. Cross this road at a cairn and a signpost with an arrow pointing along the trail.

The approach takes an hour if you are in shape, but it is strenuous.

Camping/Utah Open Lands

Register for camping here: REGISTRATION LINK

Utah Open Lands owns the land at the base of Castleton Tower where the historical primitive camping area exists. This land has been protected for its wildlife, ecological, and scenic value in addition to its recreational value.

Use of this camping area has increased dramatically in recent years. Historically, no fee was required for camping or day-use of this area. This area has been maintained as a fee-free area in the face of increased use and the conversion of the surrounding areas to no-camping or fee-only camping.

Utah Open Lands has no intention at this time of charging a fee. Due to high levels of use, however, certain requirements have become advisable. You can find these requirements on the Utah Open Lands website (www.utahopenlands.org).

Donations cover all costs for maintaining the area. Donations of all sizes are appreciated.

Beginning October 1, 2010, campers will be required to register to camp on the Property. There will be no cost for registering at this time. You'll be able to register at the Utah Open Lands website. Past experience has shown that almost all campers use the area respectfully and appropriately. Help us maintain this tradition by taking personal responsibility for the care of this protected area.

Thank you. Please contact Utah Open Lands with any questions or comments.

15 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Castleton Tower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 3
No Other Options
Boulder
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 749
North Chimney
Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 775
Kor-Ingalls Route
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 40
Black Sun
Trad 4 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 279
North Face
Trad 3 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 12
West Face
Trad 4 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Stardust Cowboy
Trad 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 9
Burning Inside
Trad 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 12
North Face Original Pitch 1
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Hollowpoint
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 33
Sacred Ground
Trad 4 pitches
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 6
The Ivory Tower
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
No Other Options
 3
V1 5 Boulder
North Chimney
 749
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Kor-Ingalls Route
 775
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Black Sun
 40
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
North Face
 279
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
West Face
 12
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Stardust Cowboy
 7
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Burning Inside
 9
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
North Face Original Pitch 1
 12
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Hollowpoint
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Sacred Ground
 33
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad 4 pitches
The Ivory Tower
 6
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Trad 4 pitches
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