Elevation: 6,356 ft
GPS: 38.651, -109.3678
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 341,302 total · 1,353/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on May 12, 2002 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Registration required for camping starting 01 Oct 2010. Details

Description

Castleton Tower is probably the most famous desert tower in the world, and was the first major tower climbed in the Moab area. The Kor-Ingalls route is one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America, and Castleton also has one other 5.9 route of the same caliber. Harder classic routes both aid and free exist on its fantastic Wingate sandstone with its unique calcite crust.

Castleton is most climber's first desert tower, and it is common for lines to form on the Kor-Ingalls during the spring and fall. All the free routes are trad, and you should be solid at the grade - this is not a good place to break into 5.9.

Getting There

You will find the campground on Castle Valley road about 1/4 to a 1/2 mile after the cattle guard in the road on the left. From the campground/parking lot hike up the wash following the cairns until you get to a dirt road. Cross this road at a cairn and a signpost with an arrow pointing along the trail.

The approach takes an hour if you are in shape, but it is strenuous.

Camping/Utah Open Lands

Register for camping here: REGISTRATION LINK

Utah Open Lands owns the land at the base of Castleton Tower where the historical primitive camping area exists. This land has been protected for its wildlife, ecological, and scenic value in addition to its recreational value.

Use of this camping area has increased dramatically in recent years. Historically, no fee was required for camping or day-use of this area. This area has been maintained as a fee-free area in the face of increased use and the conversion of the surrounding areas to no-camping or fee-only camping.

Utah Open Lands has no intention at this time of charging a fee. Due to high levels of use, however, certain requirements have become advisable. You can find these requirements on the Utah Open Lands website (www.utahopenlands.org). Best practices are:

  • Use the pit toilet or a wag bag. Never poop in the desert because fecal matter does not decompose well in arid environments. Burying your waste isn’t good enough. Walk to the pit toilet and use it. Wait in line if you have to. Also, clean up behind your pets.
  • There is only ONE designated camping area on the Preserve. Camp only in designated campsites. Do not trample plants or put up your tent on the soil crust.
  • Park only in designated parking. There is only one road on the Preserve that leads directly to the designated camping area. Changes are coming this fall -- look for signs indicating overnight parking and day-use parking only. Fencing will be installed along the shoulder of the road; please do not park on the shoulder.
  • No fires. EVER. Thank you.

Donations cover all costs for maintaining the area. Donations of all sizes are appreciated.

Beginning October 1, 2010, campers will be required to register to camp on the Property. There will be no cost for registering at this time. You'll be able to register at the Utah Open Lands website. Past experience has shown that almost all campers use the area respectfully and appropriately. Help us maintain this tradition by taking personal responsibility for the care of this protected area.

Thank you. Please contact Utah Open Lands with any questions or comments.

Responsible Recreation

  • It is important to stay on the trail. Our trails are surrounded by living soil called Biocrust. Off-trail travel damages the deserts delicate ecosystem for decades after. Find out more about our soil from local non-profit: sciencemoab.org/radio/
  • Portable toilet systems are required in Grand County. Be prepared to carry human waste out on the trail. Human waste takes over a year to decompose in the desert. This keeps it clean for everyone after you. Buy one at any of our local gear shops before your visit.
  • Temperatures can easily reach upwards of 100 degrees. Exposure to the sun is extreme. Always travel with enough water and electrolytes for the length of your outing and the temperature of the season. It is important to have more water than you might expect.
  • Always let someone know where you are and when you expect to be back. Cell service is limited. Always stay found. If lost, stay where you are. Wandering makes it difficult for Search and Rescue to find you.
  • Recreate within your limits. There are few access points for Search and Rescue. It will take Search and Rescue time to get to injured individuals on the trail.

15 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Castleton Tower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 5
No Other Options
Boulder
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 870
North Chimney
Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 893
Kor-Ingalls Route
Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 5
Discrete Start to Black Sun
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 45
Black Sun
Trad 4 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 318
North Face
Trad 3 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 12
West Face
Trad 4 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 7
Stardust Cowboy
Trad 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 10
Burning Inside
Trad 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 12
North Face Original Pitch 1
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Hollowpoint
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 43
Sacred Ground
Trad 4 pitches
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 9
The Ivory Tower
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
No Other Options
 5
V1 5 Boulder
North Chimney
 870
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Kor-Ingalls Route
 893
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Discrete Start to Black Sun
 5
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad 2 pitches
Black Sun
 45
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
North Face
 318
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
West Face
 12
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Stardust Cowboy
 7
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Burning Inside
 10
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
North Face Original Pitch 1
 12
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Hollowpoint
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Sacred Ground
 43
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad 4 pitches
The Ivory Tower
 9
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Trad 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Castleton Tower »

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