PRINT: Rock Climbing in Castleton Tower, Castle Valley

Castleton Tower

Utah > Southeast Utah > Castle Valley

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Access Issue: Registration required for camping starting 01 Oct 2010. Details

Utah Open Lands utahopenlands.org owns the primitive area historically used by climbers camping near Castleton Tower.

Beginning October 1, 2010, Utah Open Lands will require free registration to camp in the primitive camping area. Registration will be accomplished at the Utah Open Lands website. utahopenlands.org

Description

Castleton Tower is probably the most famous desert tower in the world, and was the first major tower climbed in the Moab area. The Kor-Ingalls route is one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America, and Castleton also has one other 5.9 route of the same caliber. Harder classic routes both aid and free exist on its fantastic Wingate sandstone with its unique calcite crust.

Castleton is most climber's first desert tower, and it is common for lines to form on the Kor-Ingalls during the spring and fall. All the free routes are trad, and you should be solid at the grade - this is not a good place to break into 5.9.

Getting There

You will find the campground on Castle Valley road about 1/4 to a 1/2 mile after the cattle guard in the road on the left. From the campground/parking lot hike up the wash following the cairns until you get to a dirt road. Cross this road at a cairn and a signpost with an arrow pointing along the trail.

The approach takes an hour if you are in shape, but it is strenuous.

Camping/Utah Open Lands

Register for camping here: REGISTRATION LINK

Utah Open Lands owns the land at the base of Castleton Tower where the historical primitive camping area exists. This land has been protected for its wildlife, ecological, and scenic value in addition to its recreational value.

Use of this camping area has increased dramatically in recent years. Historically, no fee was required for camping or day-use of this area. This area has been maintained as a fee-free area in the face of increased use and the conversion of the surrounding areas to no-camping or fee-only camping.

Utah Open Lands has no intention at this time of charging a fee. Due to high levels of use, however, certain requirements have become advisable. You can find these requirements on the Utah Open Lands website (www.utahopenlands.org). Best practices are:

Use the pit toilet or a wag bag. Never poop in the desert because fecal matter does not decompose well in arid environments. Burying your waste isn’t good enough. Walk to the pit toilet and use it. Wait in line if you have to. Also, clean up behind your pets.
There is only ONE designated camping area on the Preserve. Camp only in designated campsites. Do not trample plants or put up your tent on the soil crust.
Park only in designated parking. There is only one road on the Preserve that leads directly to the designated camping area. Changes are coming this fall -- look for signs indicating overnight parking and day-use parking only. Fencing will be installed along the shoulder of the road; please do not park on the shoulder.
No fires. EVER. Thank you.

Donations cover all costs for maintaining the area. Donations of all sizes are appreciated.

Beginning October 1, 2010, campers will be required to register to camp on the Property. There will be no cost for registering at this time. You'll be able to register at the Utah Open Lands website. Past experience has shown that almost all campers use the area respectfully and appropriately. Help us maintain this tradition by taking personal responsibility for the care of this protected area.

Thank you. Please contact Utah Open Lands with any questions or comments.

Responsible Recreation

It is important to stay on the trail. Our trails are surrounded by living soil called Biocrust. Off-trail travel damages the deserts delicate ecosystem for decades after. Find out more about our soil from local non-profit: sciencemoab.org/radio/
Portable toilet systems are required in Grand County. Be prepared to carry human waste out on the trail. Human waste takes over a year to decompose in the desert. This keeps it clean for everyone after you. Buy one at any of our local gear shops before your visit.
Temperatures can easily reach upwards of 100 degrees. Exposure to the sun is extreme. Always travel with enough water and electrolytes for the length of your outing and the temperature of the season. It is important to have more water than you might expect.
Always let someone know where you are and when you expect to be back. Cell service is limited. Always stay found. If lost, stay where you are. Wandering makes it difficult for Search and Rescue to find you.
Recreate within your limits. There are few access points for Search and Rescue. It will take Search and Rescue time to get to injured individuals on the trail.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 48 ● Black Sun Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 956 ● Kor-Ingalls Route Trad 4 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 11 ● Burning Inside Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R 5 ● Discrete Start to Black Sun Trad 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 2 ● The Arrowhead Trad 2 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 8 ● Stardust Cowboy Trad 3 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 3 ● Hollowpoint Trad
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c 10 ● The Ivory Tower Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 943 ● North Chimney Trad 4 pitches
V1 5 7 ● No Other Options Boulder
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 349 ● North Face Trad 3 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b 48 ● Sacred Ground Trad 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 13 ● North Face Original Pitch 1 Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 12 ● West Face Trad 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 1 ● The Bjornstad Traverse ( The Gir… Trad, Aid 9 pitches

● Black Sun

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches

● Kor-Ingalls Route

956

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches

● Burning Inside

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 4 pitches

● Discrete Start to Black Sun

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad 2 pitches

● The Arrowhead

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches

● Stardust Cowboy

5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches

● Hollowpoint

5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad

● The Ivory Tower

5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Trad 4 pitches

● North Chimney

943

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches

● No Other Options

V1 5 Boulder

● North Face

349

5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches

● Sacred Ground

5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad 4 pitches

● North Face Original Pitch 1

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad

● West Face

5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches

● The Bjornstad Traverse ( Th…

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 Trad, Aid 9 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Castleton (and realtives) from Onion Creek rd.

castleton tower in the lower left.

Kimmmmyyyy J. and I had to snip the old chain out cus it just wasn't right... 1/2 inch bolts worth 10,000 pounds down to a $1.29 coldshut rated to 900 pds when brand new (years ago). The only way…

A storm rolled through the valley. The weather in the desert can change quickly, be aware!

Castleton as seen from Sister Superior

CASTLETON TOWER SKETCH<br>
SOUTHEAST FACE ROUTES:<br>
A. Kor-Ingalls, 5.9<br>
B. Discrete Start for Black Sun, 5.9r<br>
C. Black Sun, 5.10<br>
D. Burning Inside, 5.10<br>
E. Arrowhead Left, 5.9<br>
F. Stardust Cowboy, 5.11-<br>
G. Hollow-point, 5.11+<br>
H. Little White Lieback, 5.11-<br>

CASTLETON TOWER SKETCH SOUTHEAST FACE ROUTES: A. Kor-Ingalls, 5.9 B. Discrete Start for Black Sun, 5.9r C. Black Sun, 5.10 D. Burning Inside, 5.10 E. Arrowhead Left, 5.9 F. Stardust Co…

Fog / Snow in March

Castleton at Night (w/ headlamp streaks accidently visible)

Castle Valley Twilight

Josh keeping his feet warm. This might explain some of his strong sends.

Castleton Tower Shine on

Topo of the N. Face rappel route courtesy of Jay Smith.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY

On the 26th of September Kimmyyyyyy Jacobs and I completed the cleanup and backup of the North Face anchors. We dragged a bunch of chain up and the big 1/2 inch steel snippers. We removed the old chain and equalized the stuff I dragged up there last spring. ON that previous job the drill broke down so I wasn't able to add the stainless bolts. All anchors now have at least 1 stainless halfie with the chain. The old chain was probably good for a few more years (though it was rusted together), but the way it was wset up, to one single cold shut worth only 900 pounds when brand new, was unnaceptable. Those things are made of soft metal and are never tested... the 900 pounds is an average. IN any event, it is now set up with big rings and rated to way over what we can generate. It should last a while.

You will notice there is about 5 feet of chain linking the long halfie to the orginail bolts. This is because I had to go 5 feet back from the rim to find a non-hollow spot in the cap rock. Its not pretty, but it makes it easy to get over the lip and is a much more stout rap anchor.

We also brought the top anchor on the Kor Ingals up to speed with chain. We ran out of time and were not able to do the lower rap... that will have to wait. Sep 28, 2007

Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY

The lower-rappel anchor on the Kor INgalls is now chain and half inch bolts. Two rappels with double 60's get you down. Oct 16, 2007

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO

Rap of N Face with a single 80M is good. I just did it Raps are 38M (A 70M WILL NOT REACH), 31M, and then 35M. Oct 14, 2014

Steve Bartlett

Late November 2015: Anyone rapping from to of Castleton, be sure to use the correct rap anchor. The recent high-line between Castleton and Rectory utilized new bolts near the edge of the summit. These are new, massive, about 3/4-inch diameter, not really equipped for rope retrieval, and a rappel from them will leave you stranded (yes, there was a rescue last night due to someone making this mistake). The correct anchor down the north face, has 1/2-inch bolts, hangers and lots of chains. Nov 23, 2015

Ben Forbes

360° Summit View goo.gl/maps/xXraG4D32sR2

If you're on the fence about Castleton (or Moab in general), let this summit view sink in for a minute.

Spring 2016 marked our frist trip to the desert and we were unsure of what to expect. The beauty is almost overwhelming for first-timers. And just when we thought the views couldn't get better, we stood on top of Castleton Tower. Hope this entices some to make the journey for the first time and brightens the day of those who have seen it. Keep exploring! Jul 12, 2016

Larry Ruiz

Just to let everyone know, Bruce Lella lifted the original Castleton Tower summit register many years ago. It's probably sitting on his coffee table now. If anyone knows this asshole, please hold his nose to the grindstone and make him put it back. Jan 5, 2017

bruce lella

Hi Larry,

Just so you know, 27 years ago in May I summited Castleton only to find that someone had (inadvertly I'm sure) left the lid off the box containing the register. The original register was floating in an inch of water. The thing was pulp. I removed the register took it home and carefully dryed it out. I carefully transcribed all that I could into a new book and returned it to the summit. Understand please. I have climbed Castleton well over 100 times and have complete respect for the area and it's history. If you or anybody else reading this can advise me on what to do with what is left of the original book I'm all ears. Don't need it and can assure that it's not on my coffee table.

Cheers, The asshole Bruce.
PS. We have never met have we? Feb 18, 2017

tooTALLtim
Vanlife

After turning off 128, the camping and approach trail are 4.6 miles down the road on your left. Nov 19, 2017

Tom Rafferty

Dear Bruce...i hope u hav already been advised to donate the original register to a Climbing Museum perhaps...and it wuld b nice to actually see it as we climbed it in 1975 and we were under 100 of the ascent parties and i took the liberty to include Pete Townsend's name since he sang that song i can see for miles and miles and miles....i hav often wanted to take another glance at that register as we were amatures and a lot of big boy names were in there b4 us...and i cannot imagine how much water could have actually gotten inside the canister but suppose freakier things have happened....respectfully, Peter Townsend, Kyle Schucker and Tom Rafferty(me). Feb 12, 2018

Ben Iseman
Toronto, Ontario

TIL: An 80m will get you down the north face in 3 raps, depositing you above the short 4th class step. Apr 27, 2018

Elisa McKee

Hey, I see below that Bruce Lella may be in possession of the original summit register. Does he still have it? And this couldn’t possibly be from the beginning! I did the 52nd ascent of Kor-Ingalls and the register I signed was only a pocket size notebook. That was in about 1980. I’ve read there have been over 40K ascents total. What register did Bruce remove? Anyone else remember the little notebook in a small canister with screw-on lid? Anyone know where that one is??? Feb 7, 2020

Marie B

As of 6/16/20, there appears to have been significant shifting of the rocks you scramble up at the base of the N side of the tower. Specifically, the huge boulder forming the lower part of the two-tiered corner appears to have toppled over, and part of the upper section as well. I'm guessing maybe during/after the huge storms on 6/6/20? I think it made the scramble a bit easier, but still exposed. A good reminder, like the Fall of the Great Jah Man, that no sandstone is forever (and to pull down, not out :) ). My partner and I climbed K-I, NC, and NF over a few days and thankfully didn't notice any significant shifting, rockfall, or looser-than-normal rock on those routes. Jun 19, 2020

Dustin Tong
Seattle

If you're thinking about climbing castleton, plan see your route on a 3D model: climbassist.com/crags/castl… Jun 28, 2020

Wilson McKay
Denver, CO

It's possible to rap off the North Face with a single 70m.
Rap anchor 1: find the anchors on the summit with long chains on the side of the tower that faces the Rectory
Rap anchor 2: swing out to a pair of rap hangers on climbers left. There aren't chains which can make it easy to miss
Rap anchor 3: swing back right to a ledge with a 3 bolt anchor with long chains
Rap anchor 4: 3 bolt anchor (2 have chains) at another ledge. This takes you to the ground.

If using two 70m ropes, only use anchors 1 and 3. I recommend finding another party with a 70 and tying your ropes together. 4 people making 2 raps is faster than 2 people making 4 raps. Oct 19, 2020

slim	[Hide Comment] What is it with gumbynation and their obsession with FKT's? FKT's on popular moderate routes are like bragging about winning a loudest whispering contest.. May 1, 2021

Bryan H
Redwood CIty, CA

The weird Chevy commercial with a car on top ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
youtube.com/watch?v=I8YpCTu… Apr 23, 2022

Cade Smith

Upon departure today, (may 15) I believe i left my blue rope bag in the parking/camping area. It should be super obvious. attached are a my shoes, my helmet, some static rope, and a #2 and #3 cam. If you see or find it it PLEASE contact me I beg you. May 15, 2022

Michelle Leber
Moab, UT

Attention Climbers! Castleton Tower Preserve Needs Your Help!

The camping at Castleton Preserve is in danger of being closed permanently due to poor stewardship practices. There has been an increase in campers NOT using the pit toilet, creating new campsites on fragile desert plants/soils, and illegal parking along the road. Best practices are:

Use the pit toilet or a wag bag. Never poop in the desert because fecal matter does not decompose well in arid environments. Burying your waste isn’t good enough. Walk to the pit toilet and use it. Wait in line if you have to. Also, clean up behind your pets.
There is only ONE designated road and ONE designated camping area on the Preserve. Camp only in designated campsites. Do not trample plants or put up your tent on the soil crust.

Park only in the designated parking lot off Castleton Road. Changes are coming this fall -- look for signs indicating overnight parking and day-use parking only. Fencing will be installed along the shoulder of the road; please do not park on the shoulder.

No fires. EVER. Thank you.

Please help us spread the word! Feel free to re-post this information from Utah Open Lands. Sep 9, 2022

Bolting Karen
La Sal, UT

There is a ridiculous amount of rescues here every year. Please take the time BEFORE you start you're route to identify your descent. Most options require a small down climb that will look impossible in the dark if you don't know where you are going. If you want to do the north face rappels, go look at the rap stations and the scramble down before you start the climb. Good luck up there. Jan 10, 2024

ben jammin
Moab, UT

FYI Castleton Campground has been closed by Grand County. You can still access the approach (not sure what the parking sitch is) from the road. See link for more information: utahopenlands.org/castleton… Mar 20, 2024

Lucas Barth
Moab, UT

The campground is re-opened. Apr 5, 2024

Matt Gowie
Boulder, CO

As of 04/13/24, the summit register could be replaced. It's running low on space. Apr 16, 2024

ben jammin
Moab, UT

A message from Utah Open Lands:

"Over two decades ago, when the threat of development loomed over Castleton Tower's base lands, Utah Open Lands spearheaded a campaign to ensure the preservation of one of Utah's most iconic climbing destinations. As many of you know, the campground at Castleton Tower was closed in March. Utah Open Lands worked with Grand County, providing historic documentation regarding its use, and received approval to reopen under historic guidelines.

Utah Open Lands has addressed access issues to allow for continued sustainable maintenance and wants to remind folks that compliance with historic use is crucial. It’s important now more than ever that users stay within designated campsites, clean up after themselves, and leave the area better than they found it.

Without collective stewardship of the area by all visitors, the possibility of losing overnight access to this space remains. Users are part of the continued protection of this incredible place. Please share this awareness with your peers. Let's continue to enjoy and protect this landscape together."

More information can be found at their website: utahopenlands.org/castleton… May 2, 2024