Avg: 3.9 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Sam Lightner Jr. and Chris Kalous 10/22/12|
|Page Views:||5,803 total · 121/month|
|Shared By:||j wharton on Nov 8, 2017|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Beginning October 1, 2010, Utah Open Lands will require free registration to camp in the primitive camping area. Registration will be accomplished at the Utah Open Lands website.utahopenlands.org
The crux pitch gets a fair bit of sun, yet the belay is positioned in the shade, and exposed to the wind. I'd recommend picking a day with low winds, and starting early or late to catch the crux pitch before it's had a chance to heat up, or after it's gone into the shade (mid-afternoon in the fall). Regardless, bring warm clothes for belaying the crux.
I know there was some online drama about this route's validity on curmudgeonclimbing.com (aka supertopo), and poor Sam took some very undeserved flak for this wonderful route, and his efforts.
I think anyone that has a problem with this route should go climb it. I'm sure they'll quickly be impressed, and realize that it is not an overbolted, thoughtless clip-up. In fact, it's a beautiful line, established in good taste, and does have some obligatory 5.12 climbing. The bolts are well camouflaged, and thoughtfully placed. Regardless, there was plenty of precedent for routes with many bolts on Castleton long before this route was established; see Stardust Cowboy, Sacred Ground, etc.
The route has had at least five ascents. (Those are only the ones I know about, so I suspect there are more.) Despite some opinions to the contrary, I think it was a fantastic gift from Sam to the community, and I imagine it's popularity will only increase as word gets out about the route's high quality.
I've given French grades to confuse any curmudgeons.
P1: Easy climbing up a broken corner leads to some gear protected 6c lay backing in a corner, before an obvious traverse to the arete on the right. Tricky 7b/7b+ climbing up the arete past a few bolts gains a bolted belay. This is a tough pitch to onsight, particularly if there is no chalk. 7b/7b+ 33 meters.
P2: Spectacular climbing up the wild and exposed arete, with a crux low and high. 8a 32 meters.
P3: Cool bit of bouldery arete climbing off the belay leads to some fun and varied climbing up a leaning splitter. Belay on a comfortable ledge. 7b 20 meters.
P4: Two short bouldery stretches lead to the summit of the Arrow. 7a+ 25 meters.
Rap down the south face.
Optional #5C4 on 5.7 terrain on Pitch 1.
There is an excellent topo, with pitch by pitch gear beta here: