Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Ed Webster & Buck Norden 1979
Page Views: 42,617 total · 176/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Oct 25, 2001 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Registration required for camping starting 01 Oct 2010. Details

Description

I've done this route a couple of times, the last time on New years eve just before the millenium. To reach, hike up to the base of Castleton and traverse left until you are directly below the North Face.

P1- Climb a perfect wide hands crack in a right facing dihedral to a thin lieback on white calcite up higher. Then climb up ledges to the belay ledge. (5.11b)

P2- Climb a very nice handcrack past a short wide section to nice ledge and the belay anchors. (5.10)

P3- Climb up nice wider cracks to the summit.

Descent:

On the summit, walk toward the Rectory to find the N. Face Rappel station (long chains with 4-inch rings) nestled between two boulders on the taller side of the North Face.

All directions are described for a rappeler (rappeler’s left, etc.)

With 2x60 m or 2x70 m (2 raps):

  1. Rap straight down about 125 ft to a large ledge with rappel rings on its left and a boulder on its right.
  2. Rap past another ledge with an anchor on its right side to the ground (225 ft with 2x70 m) or to a platform (200 ft with 2x60 m). The obvious flaring #3’s corner of the N. Face starts from the left side of the platform. Downclimb a chimney on the right side of the platform about 20 ft to the ground. 

With a single 70 m (4 raps)

  1. Rap 40 ft hard left following the bolt line of the last pitch of Sacred Ground. This rap station is beefy Rap Hangers (no rings or chains) but I’ve never had trouble pulling the ropes.
  2. Rap 90 ft slightly right to a large ledge with rappel rings on its left and a boulder on its right.
  3. Rap to another good ledge with an anchor on its right side (90 ft).
  4. Rap 110 ft to a platform. The obvious flaring #3’s corner of N. Face starts from the left side of the platform. Downclimb a chimney on the right side of the platform about 20 ft to the ground.

With a single 80 m (3 raps)

  1. Rap straight down about 130 ft to a large ledge with rappel rings on its left and a boulder on its right. This used all of my 80 m rope.
  2. Rap to another good ledge with an anchor on its right side (90 ft).
  3. Rap 110 ft to a platform. The obvious flaring #3’s corner of the N. Face starts from the left side of the platform. Downclimb a chimney on the right side of the platform about 20 ft to the ground. (Or, try to rap straight to a boulder above the ground depending on your 80 m). 

Protection

2 sets of Camalots with extra #3. A set if stoppers.

Photos