Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Castleton Tower

Arrowhead, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bjornstad Traverse ( The Girdle of Castleton Tower), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1
Black Sun T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Burning Inside T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Discrete Start to Black Sun T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Hollowpoint T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ivory Tower, The T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Kor-Ingalls Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No Other Options V1 5
North Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
North Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
North Face Original Pitch 1 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sacred Ground T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stardust Cowboy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
West Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Ed Webster & Buck Norden 1979
Page Views: 31,812 total, 162/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Oct 25, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


212 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Registration required for camping starting 01 Oct 2010. Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

I've done this route a couple of times, the last time on New years eve just before the millenium. To reach, hike up to the base of Castleton and traverse left until you are directly below the North Face.

P1- Climb a perfect wide hands crack in a right facing dihedral to a thin lieback on white calcite up higher. Then climb up ledges to the belay ledge. (5.11b)

P2- Climb a very nice handcrack past a short wide section to nice ledge and the belay anchors. (5.10)

P3- Climb up nice wider cracks to the summit.

To descend, rappel the route. I have made it down in two long raps with 60 meter ropes. I think it is normally done in three rappels though. Another option is to rappel the Kor-Ingalls route, but it can be crowded and there is more of a chance of your ropes getting stuck.


4/20/2013-
From what I have been reading, I guess it's taboo to rappel the Kor-Ingalls route these days. When I first climbed Castleton, there was no fixed gear on the North Face to rap from. That N. face rappel is nice and quick and easy though, so I guess that is the accepted way now.

Protection

2 sets of Camalots with extra #3. A set if stoppers.
Scott E  
I ended up bailing on the first pitch today from a number 3 equalized with the fixed piece. If you find the #3 and want some good karma, let me know. Otherwise, enjoy the cam Nov 26, 2017
Matthew Berke
  5.11-
Matthew Berke  
  5.11-
Amazing route! Sustained climbing on great rock with incredible exposure. In terms of gear beta the route would protect very well with 1 #6, 1 #4, 5 #3s, 3 #2s, and 2x #.3 - #1 in Camalot sizes plus a set of stoppers. The 3rd pitch is safe and fun with 1 #6 that you can bump along with you... I agree with previous comments that a #5 is all but useless. Stoppers protect the final chimney well. Good on anyone sending the last pitch with no wide gear - bold! Oct 31, 2016
stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
I did this recently with 3 #3s and a #4. The four is handy for the first and last pitch. I walked one #3 a ways. 4 would be nicer. Every pitch on this is great. If you rap the last pitch with a single 70, it is necessary to rap skiers right to the ledge above the anchor, and then down climb (with belay). Oct 28, 2016
Michael Butts
Boulder, Co
  5.11a
Michael Butts   Boulder, Co
  5.11a
Such an amazing route. Fantastic climbing all the way to the top. 4x#3 is reasonable. I don't think I would like it with just 3x#3's. But of course I am not a superstar crack climber.If I had brought 6 #3's I would have placed them all on the first pitch haha. 3x#2's, 3x#1's is also reasonable singles and or doubles of smaller stuff and a few nuts for the chimney above. Definitely bring a #6 for the wide stuff. We also had a #4 and #5 and they were not really that useful. Just my two cents on gear. I definitely think that the hardest part was the fist crack below the flake. Such a great climb and I am looking forward to climbing it again and again. Oct 17, 2016
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
  5.11-
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
  5.11-
Did this the other day with 3 #3 camalots. It was a little scary and I wound up having to do alot of jostling and sliding but it worked out. You can occasionally place a 2 along the way and I left a 4 lower on the pitch. If I did it again I would bring 4 #3's, 3 #2's and the four. Excellent route. To reiterate the last post, there are no issues rapping this route with a 70. Do a shorter first rappel of 50 feet to climbers left from the anchor on top that looks like it was taken from a medieval dungeon. The rest is straight forward. No need to be sketchy! Oct 25, 2015
K Blase
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11-
K Blase   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11-
It's super easy to rap this route with a 70m. As Tanner suggested, rap from the top to an anchor out left (the anchor for the last pitch of Sacred Ground) comprised of 2 beefy rap bolts. It's only about 30-40 feet. From there, 3 more raps to the ground. Don't be sketchy. Sep 30, 2015
Brian Zielinski
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Brian Zielinski   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Incredible route. The gear beta in the description is good, maybe add a few extra #3s for the first pitch. I had 3 and wanted maybe one more. Triples in everything (like the book recommends) is insane and we wound up leaving a full rack hanging at the first belay to retrieve on the way down. I also had a #4 that I placed on just about every pitch but nothing bigger for the wide stuff up top.

If anyone else is crazy enough to climb in the desert in the summer and do this route: I had a .75 walk pretty deep into the bottom of the crack on P1. It was literally my first placement. You MIGHT be able to get it out with some nuts and some magic. If you do, and you want to keep it, I understand. But if you want to return it to this guy, I'd love that too. Message me if it happens. Go climb the route!! Aug 31, 2015
Matt Glue
Boulder, CO
Matt Glue   Boulder, CO
For P2, make the sure the leader minds the follower. Put a piece in just after pulling the 2nd crux (getting out of the pod and into the super-secure wide section). With no pro in the super-secure wide thing, a fall getting into it would pendulum and grate the rope all across its jagged edge. May 9, 2014
JeffL
Salt Lake City
JeffL   Salt Lake City
For some reason I thought you could rap this with a single 70m rope... Maybe the above poster speaking of an anchor 20-30 feet below the summit would work, but you won't make it to the belay ledge from the summit rap. We downclimbed... 5.4 exposed with huge consequences. There's also a bolt at the ledge that you do reach (15-20 feet short of the anchors) for the bolted route that goes up the north face. If you wanted to leave a locker or do some sort of shenanigans that would be possible. Double 50m ropes is the best idea in my opinion. As for gear. It can't be said enough... bring a #6. I worked very hard to place a tipped out 5 and I didn't think would have held. I placed a green bigbro above that, still not in a good placement. OW isn't near as fun when you think you'll be taking a 50 foot whipper if you fall. As for gear. There are still 2 fixed pieces in the hand/fist crack as of 5/4/14. We brought 5 #3's and didn't place them all, but that was spacing gear out about 10 feet in between them. Be confident on #3 Indian Creek hand/fist cracks and you'll be fine. May 7, 2014
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
The gear beta in the description is pretty spot on. Double rack from blue or purple tcu to #3 C4, with a third #3. All these posts about 10 #3s and huge cams are completely ridiculous provided you're competent on desert 5.11. Also, there were 2 fixed pieces on the first pitch as of November 2013. I never placed my 3rd #3 because I was saving it in case I needed it for the upper part of the pitch but after about 2/3 of the way up there is nowhere to place a #3.

Also, I placed 1 medium-large stopper somewhere in the OW on P3, which was the only wire used on the whole climb.

Lastly, an 80m rope works beautifully for rapping the route. Nov 12, 2013
chuckdrew
Cape Elizabeth, Maine
chuckdrew   Cape Elizabeth, Maine
Great route!

The "5.10" part of pitch 1 was really hard for me (wide hands!), everything else including the offwidth and 5.11 part were not bad at all.

I brought 2 #5 camalots for pitch 3 and found them almost useless. Bring a #6 or two of them if you actually want to protect the pitch. I would have been much happier with 1 #6 than 10 #5s! Oct 31, 2013
you can rap this with a 70m (without having to downclimb) with the following method: 1st rap is only about 30 or 40 feet from the anchors, slightly climbers left, 2 big rap bolts. 2nd rap will take you to the belay station for the third pitch. 3rd rap will take you to the belay station for the 2nd pitch. 4th rap will get you to the ground, but you will be stretching your rope.

also there is a fixed piece on pitch 1 as of the end of March, 2013. I took 5 number 3 camalots and was happy-ish. Apr 3, 2013
b Light
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
b Light   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Climbed this on March 30.
Gear Beta from a very conservative climber...
#6-1
#5-1 (my partner argued for 2)
#4-1 or 2
#3-9 *I place them all on the first pitch and was happy
#2-2 or 3
#1-2 or 3
#.75-2
#.5-1
#.4-1
#.3-1
Med to Large Nuts
10-24" Slings
3 -48" Slings

One of my favorite routes in the desert!! Apr 3, 2013
Ryan Z
  5.11-
Ryan Z  
  5.11-
This route is awesome! SO much fun. We did it in the 3rd week of March on a warm day (60's in the sun) and we were pretty cold, but that is no reason to not climb it. I led P2 and P3. For P3 I hauled a BD #4 and #5, I did not place either of them, although they were handy for building an anchor atop. Mar 23, 2013
Jess  
Can you climb this route at the end of March or do you think it would be too cold? THanks in advance! Mar 1, 2013
Eric and Lucie
Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Eric and Lucie   Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Wow! Varied, fun, steep, and well protected.
Note about pro for 3rd pitch and to clarify previous posts: what you'll need to make this pitch safe is the largest BD cam: this would be a #6 C4 (the new) or a #5 Camalot (the old). Both are green and extend to 7+ inches. You'll be walking this baby up several feet at a time several times between other good placements. I did not leave it placed and ended up using it for the last anchor too. May 14, 2012
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
If rapping with a single 70, you'll wind up downclimbing a ramp that is VERY exposed at the end of the very first rappel. Probably 5.5-5.6 if you're going up, but felt 5.7ish going down. You're not above a ledge or anything either -- mess up and you're 300 feet down and dead. I found this extremely unpleasant. Not a recommended rap route with a single 70 m rope IMO.

You could conceivably leave your ends un-knotted and rap off the end of your rope to the ledge with the rap station, but that would be a three foot or so fall. I didn't even feel close to that ledge and I went all the way to my knots. May 2, 2012
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
I'd bring 5 #3 camalots for the first pitch. I thought the 2nd pitch roof was the best move on the climb. I felt like I walked the #5 camalot for miles on the 3rd pitch and without it I would have felt very runout. Slings cannot be overemphasized on this pitch. I also did not see how one could set up a very secure belay from just below the final 30 foot chimney to make it a 4 pitch route(like Burns topo suggests), and there are no convenient fixed anchors on the top so be prepared with #2 and #3 camalots for a belay. Jul 14, 2010
Devan Johnson
  5.11-
Devan Johnson  
  5.11-
Huh. I thought this route was significantly easier than fine jade. Definitely no stopper cruxes like the finger crack bulge on fine jade.
Overall, an awesome route. Pitch one was definitely the money pitch. The last pitch was also great. Careful cam placements, and occational leapfrogging make the last pitch less scary. Oct 26, 2009
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
You can rap the route with a single 70 but beware because the first rappel is a super rope-stretcher. At the VERY end of the rope we had to reach down and clip the anchor and basically rap off the end of the rope back onto that ledge. Using a reepschnur on the first to extend the pull line might be a better idea. The rest of the raps are casual and easy.

Absolutely fantastic route. We did the right start. Got to get on the #3s start next time! Oct 23, 2009
k. riemondy
Boulder, Co
 
k. riemondy   Boulder, Co
 
Make sure to bring some runners for the 3rd pitch, otherwise the rope drag will make the final .7 chimney quite frustrating. You really don't want the first words you utter as you pull on to the summit to be "Come f**king on Rope!" You might scare the other climbers on the summit :) (Thanks guys for the water) Nov 9, 2008
andrew kulmatiski
logan, ut
 
andrew kulmatiski   logan, ut
 
Wow- What a route. This may be my favorite desert route. I'd give it an 11b, but I have big hands. I would have placed 10 #3's if I had them. We did two 60m raps from the summit. I think this route is much better (and easier) than Fine Jade. Anyone else worried about falling on cams on that final flake? Sep 12, 2008
Mike
Phoenix
  5.11b
Mike   Phoenix
  5.11b
Hey Hayduke that's funny you should say that. I found this route to be overall harder than Atlantis. That's how it goes with climbing ratings I guess.

FWIW, the Supertopo guide rates it 5.11c. Nov 15, 2007
m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
I rapped the north face with one 70m. The first rap brought us to a ledge about 15-20' above the anchors, and an exposed downclimbed ensued...we also left half the rack on top and were forced to simul Kor-Ingalls to get it. Kor-Ingalls is way easy to rap with one 70m. Nov 2, 2007
Will Butler
Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Will Butler   Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Amazing line. I was suspicious about my friend's heed to bring four #3s for the first pitch but was very glad that I did. Think Indian Creek splitter. Even with this gear there were times when I pushed pieces up 20 ft. If you were trying to sew it up I'd bring 5-6 BD #3s as well as a #4 for this long and spectacular pitch. Oct 22, 2007
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11a
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.11a
I climbed straight up the finger crack on the first pitch and felt it was about 11a. The hand crack on the second pitch felt much harder than 10a, maybe closer to 10b/c. Oct 15, 2007
Nate Furman
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11a
Nate Furman   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11a
Climbed this gorgeous route on October 8th, 2007. It was splitter!

On the first pitch, we chose to go right and climb the undercling/lie back instead of the finger crack on the left. I would call it .11a and super, super good. A little thoughtful and very airy.

I would have liked 5 #3 camalots for the first pitch. We only had 3 and ended up shuffling them a bunch, which worked fine but was kind of a pain in the butt. Probably added to the pump factor a bit.

The second pitch was surprisingly hard for .10a.

The third pitch was marvelous. It looks super gnarley, but rarely did I have to do much OW technique. It was all there and climbed beautifully. Awesome route! We had a couple 4.5 camalots and placed them both. Oct 10, 2007
Hayduke Cloud
Denver, CO
Hayduke Cloud   Denver, CO
Awesome route on the most famous tower in Utah. I disagree with the grade creep going on here. This route is stiff, for sure, but 11c? Not a chance. When I think 11c I think Crack of Doom at City of Rocks, or Atlantis in the Needles. Both of which are miles harder than this route. Do not be intimidated by this route, get on it! Good gear and awesome exposure. 11a (maybe) Feb 22, 2007
When I climbed this route a few years ago, I had doubles up to #3 camalot and then one #3.5, and #4. If/when I climb this route again, I will bring more #3's for pitch one but the rest of my rack seemed sufficient. This route is one of the best i have done. Oct 31, 2006
Mike
Phoenix
  5.11b
Mike   Phoenix
  5.11b
This is a great route up an awesome tower. Definitely a classic. I couldn't quite get myself to trust smearing on the calcite layer. Maybe next time. Oct 17, 2006
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
If you have a 70m rope, you can do the rap off the north face in four single-rope rappels. The first pitch of "North Face" is probably around 120-130 feet, and a 70m just BARELY puts you on the ground.
-Paul Nelson Sep 17, 2006
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
An optional first pitch, or rather the original first pitch starts 30' to the right in another right facing dihedral. This goes at 11b, and is more difficult than the hand crack. Liebacking thin fingers, ends at the same belay. Both have excellent climbing. Sep 23, 2002
If you're taking wide gear specifically for the 3rd pitch, take a #5 Camalot or equivalent. A #4.5 is maddeningly just too small.-David Goldstein Sep 20, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
The last (3rd) pitch is a little runout, but particularly near the top, you can get stoppers in a crack withing the OW. Thus, it is best to take a set of nuts and a good number of 2' runners on this route. Apr 26, 2002
This is such a spectacular route! It is complete with excellent exposure, very sustained and varied from fingers to off-width.

The first pitch is definitely the hardest because it is so sustained and long. I brought three #3 Camalots, but most people want more for the first pitch. I would have liked to have a 4.5 or 5 Camalot for the last pitch, but most of the hard sections are secure.

It is very shady all day long, which makes this a good route to do in late spring of maybe even summer when it is too hot for other routes. If you do this climb in the fall or early spring, be prepared to dress very warm. Nov 27, 2001