Avg: 3.8 from 274 votes
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Ed Webster & Buck Norden 1979|
|Page Views:||39,848 total · 173/month|
|Shared By:||Ben Folsom on Oct 25, 2001|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Beginning October 1, 2010, Utah Open Lands will require free registration to camp in the primitive camping area. Registration will be accomplished at the Utah Open Lands website.utahopenlands.org
P1- Climb a perfect wide hands crack in a right facing dihedral to a thin lieback on white calcite up higher. Then climb up ledges to the belay ledge. (5.11b)
P2- Climb a very nice handcrack past a short wide section to nice ledge and the belay anchors. (5.10)
P3- Climb up nice wider cracks to the summit.
To descend, rappel the route. I have made it down in two long raps with 60 meter ropes. I think it is normally done in three rappels though. Another option is to rappel the Kor-Ingalls route, but it can be crowded and there is more of a chance of your ropes getting stuck.
From what I have been reading, I guess it's taboo to rappel the Kor-Ingalls route these days. When I first climbed Castleton, there was no fixed gear on the North Face to rap from. That N. face rappel is nice and quick and easy though, so I guess that is the accepted way now.