Type: Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: webster, hopkins, coyne
Page Views: 12,441 total · 58/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Oct 28, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Registration required for camping starting 01 Oct 2010. Details

Description

This climb can be viewed as a major variation to Kor-Ingalls and features lots of wide climbing and a crux reminiscent of Poseiden Adventure on Lighthouse tower.

Start as for Kor-Ingalls.

P1. Climb about 150' up KI. At this point, 20-30' of easy scrambling past a major rap anchor, KI continues to angle rightwards up the corner while Black Sun go straight up a wide crack system. From the point where the routes diverge, you will see a ledge about 80' upon the left side of the BS crack system.

P2. 5.8ish, 80'. Wide crack climbing with some face holds and a variety of gear. Belay on the ledge.

P3. 5.10, ~90'. Continue up the crack system. About 20' up you hit a difficult section that can eat up your big gear.This quicly turns into hands ands gets you to a stance at the base of the business, a 30' flare chimney with an offwidth crack in the back. If you've squandered your 4.5 Camalot already, go back down and get it, because it's the essential piece through this entire section. This section succumbs to left side in "can opener technique" -- squeeze chimney technique with the inside part of the body, knee/heel with the outside leg. A couple of face holds facilliate the process. The 4.5 can be easily walked along to maintain peace of mind. The crack widens and gets easier in the last ten feet. A 5 Camalot might protect this section which is too wide for the 4.5 and too flared for a decent Big Bro placement. At the top of the flare, tunnel behind a chockstone and stand up on a good belay ledge. The last few feet of the flare and the tunnel move can be avoided by going over the chockstone; this alternative looked harder and a lot hairier to me.

P4. 5.8 ~80'. Head up a fist crack for 15'. Squirm throughsome blocks and arrive at a stance (optional belay). BS continues straight up through more 5.8 wide or you can traverse right to the standard KI face finish.

Protection

We had1 each #1-#7 Rock.1 green and 1 yellow alienDouble set of cams from 1 to 4 Friend.1 each #4, 4.5 and 5 Camalot1 #3 Big BroThis rack was pretty good. However, you could get by without the 5 Camalot and the Big Bro and a 2nd 4.5 Camalot would be nice.

Photos