Avg: 2.3 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 110 ft (33 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Wyatt Payne and Ken Trout, 4/14/09|
|Page Views:||2,237 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||Ken Trout on Apr 12, 2009|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Beginning October 1, 2010, Utah Open Lands will require free registration to camp in the primitive camping area. Registration will be accomplished at the Utah Open Lands website.utahopenlands.org
Pitch two starts by climbing 20 feet up the "Passing Lane Chimney" past the roof to a horizontal crack. Traverse this crack with cam protection and tip toe holds above the roof. From a nice perch on the prow at the lip, make a few runout 5.9- moves up to the first bolt. Follow the nice holds on the arete, past the second (last) bolt. Scary small holds, a long way above the bolt lead up a panel to the big ledge. The obtuse corner, just right is tempting but harder. But set the belay right of Kor-Ingalls for best anchors and more importantly rockfall shelter.
From the ledge, rejoin Black Sun. Most Kor-Ingalls parties are taking right hand version of the second pitch. That means the left hand crack up to Black Sun is usually open.
Marsha Trout helped me bolt this a few days before Wyatt and I climbed the new pitches, Black Sun (5.10), and Burning Inside (5.10+).
All are rappel, hand drilled, 1/2", plated, Rawl five-piece, power bolts. After pounding the bolts in, the "pounded bolt" gets removed, and then a new painted one gets put in with a short handle wrench (to prevent over-torqued bolts). So none of these four bolts were ever hammered upon.
I wanted to lead bolt it, but didn't want the inferior bolts produced. First I top-roped the upper part of the arete, while waiting for a turn at the KI rap anchor. Next day, pitch two, I led up, marked the spot for bolt #1, and then braved the down-climb back to the "passing lane" chimney. Finally, from rappel, I spaced the second bolt so that the level of runout is similar to Burning Inside. For me the gnarliest bit is the run above the last bolt. Wyatt Payne led it first, on a full South Face ascent, and liked it.
There are no bolted belays for the two pitches. No need for them because there is good crack pro on the ledges. Also, the first pitch anchor of Kor-Ingalls is the only location where a single 70m rope will get trail-users from the big KI ledge back to their packs.