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Castle Valley Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Castle Valley

Castleton Tower 14 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 15

Convent, The 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 9

Nuns, The 5 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

Parriot Mesa 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 9

Priest, The 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 3

Rectory, The 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13

Sister Superior Group 7 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 8

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	4,056 ft	1,236 m
GPS:	38.6836, -109.4227 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	712,574 total · 2,484/month
Shared By:	Orphaned User on May 12, 2002 · Updates
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

Castle Valley is the place to go for your baptism into desert towers. This area is one of the birthplaces of tower climbing. Maybe you've heard of the Kor-Ingalls Route, listed on the 50 North American Classic climbs? Other climbs that should be done before you become too old and fat to climb are Honeymoon Chimney, Jah Man, and Fine Jade.

Overall, the rock is as good as desert sandstone (Wingate) gets, but beware of the slippery white calcite coatings found on much of the rock here. Most routes start at honest 5.9.

Getting There

These directions are from Moab. Basically, the turn-off for Castle Valley is about 20 miles NE of Moab off SH 128 (River Road). Look for the sign for Castle Valley. To do anything on the Priest, Rectory, or Castleton Tower, take the Castle Valley turn-off (see here;hl=en&ll=38.683517,-109.422863&spn=0.019145,0.027637&t=h&z=16&layer=c&cbll=38.683482,-109.422968&panoid=7Lzf7IgJDmdPMKWUBs3ozg&cbp=12,85.56,,0,6.22 for a photo)

Go about 4.7 miles on the Castle Valley road, and then turn left on a noticeable dirt road. Go until you can't anymore.

For Sister Superior, go about another mile up 128 (i.e., not taking the Castle Valley turn-off) and look for a dirt road (obviously on the right since the left will send you towards the Colorado River). See here;hl=en&ll=38.692207,-109.410858&spn=0.001201,0.001727&t=k&z=20&layer=c&cbll=38.692207,-109.410858&panoid=EVzLfIsoEKc-jiwGRqwinw&cbp=12,96.73,,0,-0.42 for a photo of the turnout, which may also be seen from above here.;hl=en&ll=38.692377,-109.41031&spn=0.03842,0.055275&t=k&z=15

Hey, just look for stuff and figure out how to get there. Its not like there are tons of trees blocking your view. In both cases be prepared to walk. THIS WAS GOOD BETA IN 1970, BUT LET'S TRY SOME LANGUAGE THAT ENCOURAGES THE HORDES TO STAY ON TRAIL. SOMETHING LIKE:

Climber trails in Castle Valley are generally well-marked and trodden. Look for cairns and strive to avoid trampling the fragile biocrust that holds life together in this part of the world. The desert thanks you!

62 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Castle Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 1,003 ● North Chimney Trad 4 pitches Castleton Tower
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 1,000 ● Kor-Ingalls Route Trad 4 pitches Castleton Tower
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 593 ● Jah Man Trad 6 pitches Sister Superior Group
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 727 ● Fine Jade Trad 5 pitches Rectory
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 226 ● Honeymoon Chimney Trad, Aid 4 pitches Priest
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 367 ● North Face Trad 3 pitches Castleton Tower
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 40 ● Ministry Trad 5 pitches Rectory
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 14 ● North Face Original Pitch 1 Trad Castleton Tower
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 70 ● Holier Than Thou Trad, Sport 2 pitches Nuns
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 31 ● Voodoo Child Trad 4 pitches Parriot Mesa
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 48 ● Coyote Calling Trad 4 pitches Rectory
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b 50 ● Sacred Ground Trad 4 pitches Castleton Tower
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b 4 ● Choir Boyz Trad 5 pitches Convent
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 22 ● Excommunication Trad, Sport 5 pitches Priest
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c 11 ● The Ivory Tower Trad 4 pitches Castleton Tower