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Elevation: 4,056 ft
GPS: 38.6836, -109.4227
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Shared By: Orphaned User on May 12, 2002 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Castle Valley is the place to go for your baptism into desert towers. This area is one of the birthplaces of tower climbing. Maybe you've heard of the Kor-Ingalls Route, listed on the 50 North American Classic climbs? Other climbs that should be done before you become too old and fat to climb are Honeymoon Chimney, Jah Man, and Fine Jade.

Overall, the rock is as good as desert sandstone (Wingate) gets, but beware of the slippery white calcite coatings found on much of the rock here. Most routes start at honest 5.9.

Getting There Suggest change

These directions are from Moab. Basically, the turn-off for Castle Valley is about 20 miles NE of Moab off SH 128 (River Road). Look for the sign for Castle Valley. To do anything on the Priest, Rectory, or Castleton Tower, take the Castle Valley turn-off (see here;hl=en&ll=38.683517,-109.422863&spn=0.019145,0.027637&t=h&z=16&layer=c&cbll=38.683482,-109.422968&panoid=7Lzf7IgJDmdPMKWUBs3ozg&cbp=12,85.56,,0,6.22 for a photo)

Go about 4.7 miles on the Castle Valley road, and then turn left on a noticeable dirt road. Go until you can't anymore.

For Sister Superior, go about another mile up 128 (i.e., not taking the Castle Valley turn-off) and look for a dirt road (obviously on the right since the left will send you towards the Colorado River). See here;hl=en&ll=38.692207,-109.410858&spn=0.001201,0.001727&t=k&z=20&layer=c&cbll=38.692207,-109.410858&panoid=EVzLfIsoEKc-jiwGRqwinw&cbp=12,96.73,,0,-0.42 for a photo of the turnout, which may also be seen from above here.;hl=en&ll=38.692377,-109.41031&spn=0.03842,0.055275&t=k&z=15

Hey, just look for stuff and figure out how to get there. Its not like there are tons of trees blocking your view. In both cases be prepared to walk.  THIS WAS GOOD BETA IN 1970, BUT LET'S TRY SOME LANGUAGE THAT ENCOURAGES THE HORDES TO STAY ON TRAIL. SOMETHING LIKE:

Climber trails in Castle Valley are generally well-marked and trodden.  Look for cairns and strive to avoid trampling the fragile biocrust that holds life together in this part of the world.  The desert thanks you!

61 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Castle Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 923
North Chimney
Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 937
Kor-Ingalls Route
Trad 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 588
Jah Man
Trad 6 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 651
Fine Jade
Trad 5 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
 206
Honeymoon Chimney
Trad, Aid 4 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 339
North Face
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 32
Ministry
Trad 5 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 12
North Face Original Pitch 1
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 63
Holier Than Thou
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
Bad Habit
Trad 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 25
Voodoo Child
Trad 4 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 44
Coyote Calling
Trad 4 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 43
Sacred Ground
Trad 4 pitches
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 17
Excommunication
Trad, Sport 5 pitches
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 10
The Ivory Tower
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
North Chimney Castleton Tower
 923
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Kor-Ingalls Route Castleton Tower
 937
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Jah Man Sister Superior Group
 588
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 6 pitches
Fine Jade Rectory
 651
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Honeymoon Chimney Priest
 206
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 Trad, Aid 4 pitches
North Face Castleton Tower
 339
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Ministry Rectory
 32
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
North Face Original Pitch 1 Castleton Tower
 12
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Holier Than Thou Nuns
 63
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Bad Habit Nuns
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Voodoo Child Parriot Mesa
 25
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 4 pitches
Coyote Calling Rectory
 44
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 4 pitches
Sacred Ground Castleton Tower
 43
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad 4 pitches
Excommunication Priest
 17
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad, Sport 5 pitches
The Ivory Tower Castleton Tower
 10
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Trad 4 pitches
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