Elevation: 4,056 ft
GPS: 38.684, -109.423 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 539,661 total · 2,414/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on May 12, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Castle Valley is the place to go for your baptism into desert towers. This area is one of the birthplaces of tower climbing. Maybe you've heard of the Kor-Ingalls Route, listed on the 50 North American Classic climbs? Other climbs that should be done before you become too old and fat to climb are Honeymoon Chimney, Jah Man, and Fine Jade.

Overall, the rock is as good as desert sandstone (Wingate) gets, but beware of the slippery white calcite coatings found on much of the rock here. Most routes start at honest 5.9.

Getting There

These directions are from Moab. Basically, the turn-off for Castle Valley is about 20 miles NE of Moab off SH 128 (River Road). Look for the sign for Castle Valley. To do anything on the Priest, Rectory, or Castleton Tower, take the Castle Valley turn-off (see here for a photo)

Go about 4.7 miles on the Castle Valley road, and then turn left on a noticeable dirt road. Go until you can't anymore.

For Sister Superior, go about another mile up 128 (i.e., not taking the Castle Valley turn-off) and look for a dirt road (obviously on the right since the left will send you towards the Colorado River). See here for a photo of the turnout, which may also be seen from above here.

Hey, just look for stuff and figure out how to get there. Its not like there are tons of trees blocking your view. In both cases be prepared to walk. Look for climbers trails as much as possible to avoid trampling any cryptobiotic soil.

60 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Castle Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1
 32
Longbow Chimney
Trad, Aid 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 739
North Chimney
Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 764
Kor-Ingalls Route
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 40
Black Sun
Trad 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 560
Jah Man
Trad 5 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 161
Honeymoon Chimney
Trad 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 498
Fine Jade
Trad 5 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 19
Ministry
Trad 5 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 274
North Face
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 27
Crack Wars
Trad 4 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 46
Holier Than Thou
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 29
Coyote Calling
Trad 4 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 30
Sacred Ground
Trad 4 pitches
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 8
Excommunication
Trad, Sport 5 pitches
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 5
The Ivory Tower
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Longbow Chimney Parriot Mesa
 32
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1 Trad, Aid 2 pitches
North Chimney Castleton Tower
 739
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Kor-Ingalls Route Castleton Tower
 764
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Black Sun Castleton Tower
 40
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Jah Man Sister Superior Group
 560
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 5 pitches
Honeymoon Chimney Priest
 161
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Fine Jade Rectory
 498
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Ministry Rectory
 19
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
North Face Castleton Tower
 274
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Crack Wars Rectory
 27
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Holier Than Thou Nuns
 46
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Coyote Calling Rectory
 29
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 4 pitches
Sacred Ground Castleton Tower
 30
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad 4 pitches
Excommunication Priest
 8
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad, Sport 5 pitches
The Ivory Tower Castleton Tower
 5
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Trad 4 pitches
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