Avg: 3.7 from 151 votes
|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Layton Kor, Fred Beckey, Harvey Carter, Annie Carter 1961.|
|Page Views:||29,116 total · 129/month|
|Shared By:||Ben F on Mar 31, 2001|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
P1: This is the most serious and rewarding pitch on the route. Squirm your way up the fatter-than-fat dihedral. The amount of squeezing you can do is inversely proportional to your size. The crux has a 1/4" bolt nearby, which in even Wingate sandstone, should inspire confidence—right?
Find your own way through the crux, after which you can get a rest on a small ledge and clip drilled angle that will be in the back of your mind for the next thirty or forty feet of 5.9. After this, you will occasionally get pro by slinging chock stones in the crack and/or placing stoppers between them.
As you near the end of this pitch, you will be able to chimney inside the crack. Belay just behind a large boulder wedged in the chimney. You can build an anchor by threading a large stopper in between the boulder and the chimney and sticking a #3 Camalot near your feet.
Don't belay at the rap anchors 20' behind you or you will have hell to pay for rope drag. After grunting up this pitch, I was rewarded with the following high-pitched whines from my second that made it all worthwhile: "I hate this! This sucks! I can't get in the crack! Take!!!" If I could have recorded all this... Maybe add a camcorder to the gear list. 5.9, really...
P2: This is the most fun pitch on the route. You'll see. I think it went around 5.7.
You basically chimney the whole thing. There is a fixed pin on this pitch. Towards the top, you can get a couple of cams. It ends on a nice ledge with two of those nice and fat Metolius rap anchors.
P3: This pitch is either about 5.7 A0 or 5.11-.
Head up and right from the belay. There are some fixed pro and cam placements as you do the first part of this pitch. You get a nice body stem to access the arete/face that takes you upward toward the summit.
The face/arete (11- or A0) is basically a bolt ladder where some bolts are relics and others are decent-looking. This accesses a ledge, which you traverse to the left before gaining the belay. You are totally uncool to your second if you don't put a #2 Camalot in the crack at the back of this ledge after doing the bolt ladder.
P4: This is a relatively short dihedral crack system that goes at 5.8. This nice little pitch puts you on the summit.
Summit - while on the summit, read the summit register notebook COVER to COVER and be sure to view the creative artwork within its bindings. You will thank me.
Your next rap is to the anchors behind the first belay.
The last rap takes you to the opposite side of The Priest from where you started, but the amount of time you spend walking is trivial compared to the amount of time and effort you will spend pulling your ropes if you don't do as you're told.
Alternatively, and much easier: Four or five raps with a single 60m down Excommunication on the north face of The Priest. Rap with one 60 or 70m down Excommunication, look for anchors on NW corner of summit near edge - easy raps, vertical, no snags, good anchors.
Bring a #5 Camalot/#6 Friend. Use this as the belay anchor for the first pitch as the climb starts on a large ledge, and leave it there.
All you really need is several long runners, cams from around a #2 TCU to a #3 Camalot, and some stoppers.
Honeymoon Chimney is located on the west side of The Priest on a sizable ledge. It starts in the fat crack that you can't help but admire.