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Routes in The Convent

Buddha's Delight T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Choir Boyz T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Girls Gone Wild T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Middle Way, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Renate Goes to Eleven T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Two Hotdogs and a Hallway T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1+ PG13
Value of Audacity, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
West Face Dihedral T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whore House T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Description

The northernmost member of the set of spires that runs south past Sister Superior and the Rectory to Castleton. This massive mesa, bigger than the Rectory, hosts a handful of seldom climbed, adventurous routes and a beautiful, pristine summit. As of this writing, all known routes are on its west face. As far as routes go, The Value of Audacity is reputed to be the hardest and best, Hallelujah Chimney (1970's 5.10) sports a 100' fist crack and a 200' chimney while Renate Goes to 11 is characterized by moderate, occasionally interesting climbing on rock that is loose more often than not.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Getting There

Approach: drive up the dirt road as for Sister Superior and park along the road when below Hallelujah Chimney (you'll have just passed the North end of Parriot mesa and Crooked Arrow Spire on your right) then follow talus steeply upwards for 1100' and about 45 minutes.

There are rappel anchors on Hallelujah Chimney: 100', 190', 120'.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Convent

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
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Decent off of the convent:
From the highest point on the NORTH end of the Convent, walk South (towards Castleton) down the hill for about 50 yds. and look for a cairn below a mushroom roof. From the cairn you will see a distinct ledge and a new and improved rap down Choir Boyz. One 70 gets you down. IMPORTANT - stick to the corner when arriving at last rap station, otherwise it is easy to find yourself swinging in the breeze. May 27, 2011
Salvation Chimney: in the mid 90s, I tried this rig as the end of an enchainment of the ridge. On the first pitch, I was pulling out ring angles with my fingers. We bailed off of the second pitch- deciding that this absolutely horrible climb was ruining a day of otherwise amazing climbing. The chimney was caked with filth. One of the worst routes I've "almost" climbed in the desert. Feb 25, 2008
Hallelujah Chimney is more commonly known as Salvation Chimney. It's the Harvey Carter route from the 60's. Apr 29, 2003

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