Type: Trad, 450 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Earl Wiggins, George Hurley
Page Views: 735 total · 25/month
Shared By: Sam Boyce on Jul 9, 2016
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Described in Desert rock, unknown grade, single pitch (obviously not, but only p1 anchors visible from below). Turned out to be a really fun route with some splitter climbing, though it is a bit dirty as its probably only been climbed a handful of times. It is the obvious massive dihedral on the very north end of the west face of the convent.
P1- Some easy blocky terrain leads you up to a splitter number 1 crack. jam the crack up to the good ledge with old bolts (easy to back up). 80 ft, 5.9
P2- Wide hands splitter with a couple squeeze pods to start it out, straight up to a stance with a bolt and pin in a pod (can be backed up easily). 5.10-, 110 ft
P3- Possibly the dirtiest section of the climb, but not that bad. Up multiple finger cracks to a crux bulge with good jamming above. The crack gets wide but easy toward the belay. 3 bolt belay on the outside of the chimney. 5.10, 110 ft
P4- Easy chimney up unprotected to where to chokes down, continue deep in the chimney and squeeze behind a chockstone. Belay off a boulder on the ledge to your right. 5.8, 80 ft
P5- Choose your choss. I think the original line went straight up into the stembox to follow the natural line, but it looked really muddy so we opted for a cleaner looking option off the ledge on the right. Up a short squeeze/ow with some surprisingly engaging moves, turn left on the ledge and up a really short and really easy corner. Gear belay. 5.10, 60 ft
P6- Again, many options, a splitter number 4 crack looks appealing, we went out left a ways to a corner with an easy hand crack. tree belay. 5.7 60 ft

Descent: rap choir boyz with a single 70

Location

Approach via the same road as for sister superior, about a mile up the wash there will be a sharp 90 degree right turn that can be spicy for smaller cars. Park right before this, follow the smaller side wash that converges at the apex of this sharp corner in the road (big cairn as of 6/30). Follow this wash for a short ways until it makes a sharp 90 degree right corner with another smaller wash continuing straight, follow this (another cairn as of 6/30). After a short distance up this even smaller wash break left to make for the ridge line taking care to avoid crypto. Once on the ridge line a faint trail will become evident. Follow the apex of the ridge all the way up to where you meet some cliff bands and the trail disappears. Go right up into the talus gully, and straight up the talus to the base, this bit kind of sucks, but its not too bad. Work your way near the base of choir boyz, obvious shallow left facing splitter corner. Rack up here and drop packs. Follow the base of the cliff over to the base of value of audacity. Work your way into the "tunnel" of a horizontal weakness that breaks left, crawl through and you will be at the base of the route.

Protection

5-1, 4-2, 3-3, 2-3, 1-3, .75-2, .5-2, .4-2, .3-2, optional nuts, optional micros, single 70

Photos

Sam Boyce
Changes with the seasons
  5.10
Sam Boyce   Changes with the seasons
  5.10
I couldn't find much beta on this route. If anyone has confirmed fa beta, name or original grades I'd be more than happy to update. Jul 9, 2016
Ben Kiessel  
 
Climbed this the other day at the end of a link up of towers. Honestly we picked this route because of the easy rating compared to the other routes listed on the Convent. We got to the top of pitch 1 and said, "if that was 5.9 we're fu$ked!" We clawed our way up the rest of the route but it wasn't pleasant.
We brought a #6 for pitch 4 but didn't use it. Instead of sticking to the lip and placing the #6 I'd suggest tunneling in and squeezing behind a chockstone. There is a sling around the chockstone you can clip for pro but at that point it's not really needed. Climbing the pitch that way is safe and secure 5.8. For reference, I'm 6' 180lbs. Apr 29, 2018