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Routes in The Convent
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Buddha's Delight T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Choir Boyz T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Girls Gone Wild T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Middle Way, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Renate Goes to Eleven T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Two Hotdogs and a Hallway T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1+ PG13 |
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Value of Audacity, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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West Face Dihedral T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Whore House T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 430 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Sam Boyce, Damian Vasquez 7/20/16 |
| Page Views: | 636 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Boyce on Jul 20, 2016 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
It is the giant right trending ramp system just to the left of choir boyz, a keen eye can see it from where you park. Great climbing on generally sound rock, a blue collar route!
P1- Start up on the left side of the big triangular ramp, easy scrambling gets you up into a tight-ish chimney, easy chimney up to a wide hands roof. The crack starts hands, goes down to good fingers and widens to fist, then an easy OW move (didn't need a 6 here but it was nice to have) to the ledge. Gear anchor. 130 ft 5.10
P2- Only real looseness on the route, and its pretty loose, but easy with ok gear. If a couple more people trundle a bit itll clean up great. Head up the looseness and accross a decomposing ledge to the good chimney. Secure squeeze chimney up to a roof protected by a #5, stemming options make the move less physical. Great featured fist crack with increasingly good supplemental holds stretches your rope and brings you to an alcove. Small nuts and micro cam belay on the right wall. 210 ft 5.10+
P3- Easy stem box protected with small cams, mantle a chockstone and an easy wide hands crack leads to a huge ledge. #4 belay. 80 ft 5.8
P4- We scrambled over to the p4 anchor for choir boyz and rapped off here, looks like plenty options to summit. The number 4 crack straight up looks moderate or climb p5 of choir boyz.
Descent: Whether you summit or not, rap choir boyz with a single 70m rope
P1- Start up on the left side of the big triangular ramp, easy scrambling gets you up into a tight-ish chimney, easy chimney up to a wide hands roof. The crack starts hands, goes down to good fingers and widens to fist, then an easy OW move (didn't need a 6 here but it was nice to have) to the ledge. Gear anchor. 130 ft 5.10
P2- Only real looseness on the route, and its pretty loose, but easy with ok gear. If a couple more people trundle a bit itll clean up great. Head up the looseness and accross a decomposing ledge to the good chimney. Secure squeeze chimney up to a roof protected by a #5, stemming options make the move less physical. Great featured fist crack with increasingly good supplemental holds stretches your rope and brings you to an alcove. Small nuts and micro cam belay on the right wall. 210 ft 5.10+
P3- Easy stem box protected with small cams, mantle a chockstone and an easy wide hands crack leads to a huge ledge. #4 belay. 80 ft 5.8
P4- We scrambled over to the p4 anchor for choir boyz and rapped off here, looks like plenty options to summit. The number 4 crack straight up looks moderate or climb p5 of choir boyz.
Descent: Whether you summit or not, rap choir boyz with a single 70m rope
Location
Approach via the same road as for sister superior, about a mile up the wash there will be a sharp 90 degree right turn that can be spicy for smaller cars. Park right before this, follow the smaller side wash that converges at the apex of this sharp corner in the road (big cairn as of 6/30). Follow this wash for a short ways until it makes a sharp 90 degree right corner with another smaller wash continuing straight, follow this (another cairn as of 6/30). After a short distance up this even smaller wash break left to make for the ridge line taking care to avoid crypto. Once on the ridge line a faint trail will become evident. Follow the apex of the ridge all the way up to where you meet some cliff bands and the trail disappears. Go right up into the talus gully, and straight up the talus to the base, this bit kind of sucks, but its not too bad. Work your way near the base of choir boyz, obvious shallow left facing splitter corner. Rack up here and drop packs. From here its a short walk around the corner to the start.
Changes with the seasons