Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 6 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Ken Trout and Kirk Miller, 1984 |
Page Views: | 95,861 total · 341/month |
Shared By: | Anonymous Coward on Nov 9, 2001 · Updates |
Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
See this note facebook.com/note.php?note_… regarding the Ida Gulch road.
Description
The first pitch of Jah Man fell off. The route was reestablished with 2 or 3 new pitches on the bottom section.
Pitch 1: Start at the original start and climb up through one of two hand cracks systems that gains a ledge up and to the right. There is a bolt for a small Traverse to a two bolt anchor. This anchor is just left of the major horizontal that can be seen from the ground. 5.10, Gear: BD 0.3 - 3. PG13 because of detached pillars and rock quality.
Pitch 2: Hand traverse the horizontal crack for 30 feet. This crack will take anything from a BD .75-2. The crack does disappear for a few feet requiring some difficult face moves. Once at the junction of the horizontal crack and the vertical finger crack, build an anchor here. I used a BD .75, 3, and a red c3. 5.11+
Pitch 3: If you don't mind the rope drag from pitch 2, don't build an anchor and just keep going up the calcite finger crack. Otherwise, I would think most people would probably stop here and build an anchor. At the end of this 40 foot pitch, you'll land at the new anchor a few feet up and left of the old anchor (the anchor that was just above the pillar that fell). Gear: (Red C3's up to BD 0.5.) Solid 5.12. ***A crack has formed next to the crux crack on this pitch sometime between Jan. of '21 and Jan. of '24. There is a comparison photo of the crux in the photo gallery for reference.
Nothing new past this point... This is the original route.
Pitch 4: The fourth pitch heads straight up ten feet, traverses left (.10+) and then goes up an easy corner (5.9) to a nice ledge.
Pitch 5: follows the obvious 5.10 crack that trend up and left (wonderful thin hands). 5.10+ Gear: BD .4-2, mostly .75s and 1s.
Pitch 6: Steps around the corner and makes a few 9+/10- face moves to the summit. 4 bolts.
Rap the route with one 70 meter rope in 4 raps.
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