Type: Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ken Trout and Kirk Miller, 1984
Page Views: 76,755 total · 363/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Nov 9, 2001 with updates from Anna Coles
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: See thisfacebook.com/note.php?note_… from the Friends of Indian Creek Details


The tower does not look like much from afar, but this route is steep, veeery steep and excellent, mostly thin hands at the cruxes. The top is very skinny and exposed.

When you reach the base the route is obvious. Look for the squeeze chimney. Getting to it requires a first pitch of some difficult to protect 5.8-5.9 moves from the left.

The hardest part of the second pitch is getting into the chimney, the rest is quite secure. The anchor is fixed.

The third pitch heads straight up on 5.10, traverse left, perhaps the crux, and then goes up an easy corner to a nice ledge.

Pitch four follows the obvious 5.10 crack (wonderful thin hands).

Pitch five steps around the corner and makes a short 9+/10 boulder problem to the summit.


Bring a double set of Friends for this route.


Rappel the route (can be done in four with a single 60 meter rope, or three with a 70m). Use the newest sets of anchors.


Anonymous Coward  
This route can also be recommended as a good stepping stone to the North Face and Fine Jade. While not as hard or sustained, it is comparable in exposure, quality crack climbing, and in being a striking, elegant crack line. Nov 9, 2001
I'd call the step left crux solid 10+. It's also scrunchy and probably a little harder if you're tall. The thin hands pitch is considerably easier. The boulder problem at the top is sorta funky and probably easier if you're tall.

For the rack, I placed a couple nuts - maybe bring every other one. In addition, 1 set of cams blue TCU to #3 Camalot. Double up on #0.5 Camalot, 6x #0.75 Camalot, and 3x #1 camalots.

The first pitch as described can be broken into 2 shorter pitches. If you take two ropes to rappel, you can rap from the summit to the top of the squeeze. Then, one more rap to the ground. Rapping from the anchor below the summit is a little sketch since you are pulling out pretty hard on the anchor (drilled angles). The top of the squeeze has two sets of anchors - use the new ones to rap.

Fantastic route - one of the best. Possibly very crowded, though.

Nov 9, 2001
Anonymous Coward  
6X .75 Camalot!????!?!? wHERE???!!! Nov 12, 2001
Well, Anonymous Coward, pro suggestions are relative and subjective by nature (but you knew that). This route has been free soloed, afterall. Myself, I'm totally weak and scared and can never seem to place enough pro to calm my fragile nerves.

For the crux pitch and the thin hands pitch, I protected almost exclusively with .75 camalots and #2 friends. 6x was my quick quess as to what I carried, and this isn't too out of line from what is suggested in other guides. The guys ahead of us had 2x in this size (they were using the Falcon Rock Climbing Utah book which says bring a pile of #3 Friends - that's wrong, it should be #2s) , and they were certainly wishing for more.

I consider the pro list in the original description to be pretty bogus, but like I pointed out, people have done it with less than that. Personally, I'm not sure where one would place 2x#4, 2x#3.5, 2x#3, or 2x of anything smaller than 1.75 friends on this route. Maybe I just didn't notice those placements because I had so many thin hands pieces, I don't know. Like you, I'm simply offering another opinion. Nov 12, 2001
Anonymous Coward  
Yet another gear suggestion for those who care to know another opinion. I was pretty close to my limit on this route, and probably like the above commenter I prefer to keep my fragile nerves calmed. My partner and I wrote the following list at the summit (though I can't recall what else we did up there, memory's a bit hazy).

Aliens - 1 blue, 1 green, 2 yellow. Camalots - 3 x .5(purple), 5 x .75(green), 3 x 1(red), 2 x 2(yellow). No nuts, hexes or low grade shake.

Helmets are always recommended on towers, of course, but mine jammed at the awkward entrance to the squeeze so I chucked it. Belay ledges are clear of rubble.

This is an absolutely superior tower route. Nov 19, 2001
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
The Crux for me was green camalots in the top pitch. I lead the traverse moves and found them technically harder, but not as pumpy, so I felt more secure, as I took my time to figure them out. THe top thin hands I felt like racing time on, and felt insecure. I don't know that I'd have been strong enough to place 5-6 green camalots, but I guess it is possible to do so.

Maybe some people are like me, if it is a red or yellow camalot, who needs much gear (this is why I only own two of each of those sizes, but four 2" pcs.) Nov 20, 2001
So when the route is sustained red or yellow camalots for 100 ft........you place your red at 30ft, and maybe a yellow at 70 ft so that you can bounce if you fudge it and miss your clip? Sounds like a plan to me. where do I sign up? I mean I would much rather not spend the money on those pesky little things that save my life because I'm not all about climbing but rather all about telling people how studly I am at climbing. Dec 20, 2001
Charles Vernon
mind & body in Colorado, he…
Charles Vernon   mind & body in Colorado, he…
As far as gear, I think most people will be comfortable with 3 each of .75 and 1 camalots, as the crack on the third pitch varies a bit in width. I'd bring at least 2 .5 camalots (or whatever) as well, for the crux pitch. I can't recall any placement larger than a 3 friend, YMMV. I'd recommend leaving the stoppers at home unless you really want to be old-school about it. The chimney looks scary and doesn't take big cams, but was much more secure than I anticipated.

As several have mentioned, this tower doesn't catch your eye like Castleton, but the climbing and the summit are phenomenal. Just enough foot edges to keep the grade at (solid) 5.10+. Feb 19, 2002
We just climbed this yesterday. If someone forced me to put an order on classic desert towers, this probably is only second to Moses and just ahead of the North Face and Fine Jade. It just was really nice climbing on a great day.

I kept track of what we used after reviewing this page last week for beta. A comfortable rack was 4 #.75 (5 would not be out of line) and 3 #1 camalots and 2 of .4, .5 and #2 camalots. One piece smaller is nice in the chimney, and one piece larger could protect nasty fall on easier ground the final 20 feet of pitch 2. Definately only one piece (if any) in this size range. We also threw a large stopper to back up the first belay, although it probably wasn't necessary.

For the rap beta with one 60m rope: Rap the first three raps to the top of the same flake you tunneled behind for pitch one. The last rap is at the climbers right on the flake/ledge from the belay anchor that is used for the top of pitch one climbing. Shiny new hangers that drop you on the south prow in an easy rap. Walk 100 feet back around to your pack at the base.

Cheers, Frank Apr 8, 2002
What happened to the new bolts on top of the Squeeze chimney? I didn't feel to safe rapping off of the 1984 loose bolt and peton. it looked as if there were new bolts at one time. Did they pull? P.S. watch out for the local hics fireing there guns off while your climbing "YIKES". Jan 21, 2003
Anonymous Coward  
What is a 0.75 Camalot equivalent to in old style friend sizes? Do you need a 3.5 Camalot on Jah-man? What is the best approach? Where should we camp - same as for Castleton? Apr 24, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
0.75 Camalot is essentially a #2 Friend, but you can place a 1.5" here and there, too. I did not carry a #3.5 on the tower and I didn't feel that I needed or wanted one, but I am sure if you take one that you can find a place to put it if you try. The two cruxes were going up left under a flake through the overhang of the second-to-last pitch which I protected with #3 Friend (maybe a tight #3 Camalot would work) and then the tight hands run for the top which pros on 1.5-2" pieces. You can camp as for Castleton, but the walk in is much shorter if you drive back around to the other side to approach. The walk was so-so, but in the flat area there were really nice desert flowers the whole way in, 2 years ago at about this time. Apr 25, 2003
Anonymous Coward  
We did Jah Man last weekend. We found the gear notes above very helpful and ended up carrying three of #1.5 and #2 Friend sizes with doubles of other sizes and only one #3 Friend. I found that the #2 Friend was "tipped out" in several instances on the thin hands sections or almost too opened up for comfort. Having resolved to add some Camalots to my rack, I was advised by a new acquaintance and desert expert that Camalots do not have the same holding power in desert rock at certain cam positions as Friends. Apparently fall tests at Indian Creek demonstrated this point. Thus, a mix of protection types and extras as described in other comments may be more appropriate than a minimum rack of Camalots. The last rap to the ground is best done from the belay on the arete. Does anyone know the ratings of the arete route pitches? I led the first pitch and figure about 5.11 maybe 5.11a considering some ratings in Castle Valley. May 2, 2003
Max Schon
Max Schon  
Just did the route again last weekend. Forgot how cool this route is. Anyways, here are my gear suggestions.

Three .75 cams or #2 Friends and maybe three #1 Camalots. An orange alien backs up the manky bolt on pitch 2 nicely. The flake is going to break, someday soon perhaps. Two .5 Camalots is plenty and maybe a couple finger pieces. Nuts can certainly be placed all over this climb. Nothing bigger then a #3 Camalot is needed. Take #2 Camalot. Jan 28, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Hmm, Kor-Ingalls or N Chimney on Castleton are easier and will get you used to the rock, but involve mostly wider cracks where the crux on Jah Man is a thin crack (but Castleton would be good preparation for the "Sister Squeeze" right before the crux pitch). If you hang out at Indian Creek and cruise up all the easiest (5.10!) thin cracks that would probably be the best warm-up you could ask for. However the crux on Jah Man is not as sustained as an Indian Creek splitter. Mar 11, 2004
Anonymous Coward  
I thought the gear list from A.C. 11-19-01 was perfect. You can easily get away with fewer green camalots but that size is in your face on the two 5.10 pitches so it makes things easier. The pitches are relatively short making for what seemed like a much quicker day than, say, a route on Castleton. A single 60m rope worked well and I'd recommend it since its not a short approach. You just need to rap from the new anchors at the far end of the ledge atop Sister Squeeze. There is a newer bolted climb over there, does anybody know anything about it? Apr 12, 2004
Bryan Gartland
Helena, MT
Bryan Gartland   Helena, MT
I will have to agree with the late Mike Sofranko, the traverse on pitch three felt super hard for me (I'm 6'2"). I'm far from hardman status but I'd like to think that I can second 5.10 without hanging, which didn't happen on this part of the route. Is our #2 forged friend still fixed just before heading up the vertical crack? May 13, 2004
The most exciting thing about this climb are the consistently manky bolts. Whether they be anchor bolts or protection bolts on the last pitch, they're mostly rusty 1/4 inch drive bolts. Next time I hike up...I'm taking a bolt puller and some 3/8"x3.5" bolts...at least for the belays. Nov 1, 2004
Great route for women to lead.The chimney is fun to turn around in if you're small, and both crux pitches- thin hands- say "come to mommy!"

Oct 24, 2005
Anonymous Coward  
dive pitches my arse! we did it in two w/70m rope link first three and last two. xcellent route only need one rope. easist approach I've done in desert!!! if you liked castlton; you'll love the sista. Oct 31, 2005
Aimee Rose
Bend, or
Aimee Rose   Bend, or
Okay, more gear beta to mull over... I brought 2 sets of camalots up to #3 with 6 #1s. I didn't place the #3s at all- waste of weight damn it! I placed 5 #1s on the 4th pitch and was happy to have them. I'm not sure where everyone was placing all those green camalots since the red ones seemed to fit nicely.

And, being 5 foot tall, I don't think the crux on the 3rd pitch is easier for short people. It's actually quite a reach to that gaston flake and the feet are way low! But totally doable. And the last pitch is pretty tough if you're short. I had to throw for the arete- very bouldery, but I stuck it and it was all good.

All in all this is an amazing route and well worth the walk! I thought the approach to the Rectory was way less steep than this one.

Oh, and yes the forged friend is still there. I could touch it and I felt it move, but since I was pumping out on lead, I didn't try to clean it ;) Apr 26, 2006
Legs Magillicutty   Durango
Any other chimneys on towers in the desert comparable to Sister Squeeze? The entire route was lots of fun. I expected the hand crack to be my favorite section of the route but it turns out that the chimney pitch was. I saw the new anchors at the top of P2, far right on the ledge but I was wondering why there were 2 holes in what seemed to be perfectly good rock, above the piton and star driver at the top of P2. Seemed like a great place for a couple of bolts to back up the "historical" anchor. May 22, 2006
Joe Leonhard
Denver, CO
Joe Leonhard   Denver, CO
Great route! Cool idea of the guy who left the registry on the summit. Hope you guys get it back. Oct 28, 2006
Sergio P
Idaho Springs, CO
Sergio P   Idaho Springs, CO
Optional rap route. From the top of the Sister Squeeze flake/pillar you can walk along the ledge to the right to some newer anchors and hit the ground with one 60m rope. This seemed to be a cleaner rap option then going off the belay anchors on top of P2. See the photo I added. Then just walk around the tower back to the base of the route. Maybe a 30 second walk. Nov 1, 2006
David Shiembob
slc, ut
David Shiembob   slc, ut
Awesome route. I placed #1 camalots, not many #.75s on the thin hands pitch. Nov 9, 2006
the wasatch
bwillem   the wasatch
Rap beta: 70m Rope works great. from top of tower rap to top of P3. Rap to top of P2 and walk right to shiny new anchors. Rap to ground. Nov 23, 2006
Greg D
Greg D   Here
The second to last pitch (10b) may be harder for big hands people. It was harder for me to follow this pitch than it was to lead the "crux" pitch. Apr 14, 2007
Quick note on the drive in: It was muddy a few days after the Thanksgiving 2008 rain. It was very foggy and easy to mistake where to begin walking. My partner and I (in my truck) and a party on foot went back and forth trying to locate the approach trail. We wasted close to 2 hours looking. Eventually we drove past a few boulders in the road, then parked a few hundred yards further. We walked in deeper and it became clear that only a serious 4wd vehicle could make it past some of the boulders in the road/wash. Continue on and look for an OBVIOUS CAIRN on the LEFT. GO LEFT AT THE CAIRN. Do not second guess that you have already passed it. You will know when you are there- KEEP WALKING. Once you gain the approach trail, it is virtually impossible to get lost. It was easy, even in our pea soup fog bank. Check out a few of the pics I posted once we got above the fog. Mellow climb and lots of fun. Dec 12, 2008
Jason Killgore
boulder, co
Jason Killgore   boulder, co
the desert select guidebook suggested that the chimney would be poorly protected. I did not find this to be the case. Small nuts protect the entrance. Then, by climbing deep inside the chimney, plenty of gear presents itself (not that it would really be possible to fall out in there). The key to "sewing" it up is to aim for the extension of the crack that starts the 3rd (crux) pitch. Reach this and plug away with finger size gear right up to the bolted anchor. Oct 19, 2009
broppler   Oakland
Climbed this route in september. The road is completely washed out with large boulders blocking it about a mile or so from the trailhead. The road up to this point was barely manageable with my subaru wagon, but manageable nonetheless. A large cairn on the left side of the road marks the beginning of the approach trail.

The squeeze pitch is easy, well-protected, and fun. This would make an ideal rack:
(3)-.5 (4)-.75 (3)-1 (1)-2 and aliens Nov 24, 2009
Tommey-James   Boulder,Colorado
Hey so what is the gear for this climb. Is the tight hands more camalot 1's or .75's Apr 7, 2010
Telluride, CO
JoshOrin   Telluride, CO
my rack for next time I go up: aliens - (1) set (yellow - copper), BD's - (1) .5, (2) .75, (4) 1, (1) 2, (1) 3. (1) 60M rope. Amazing route. Apr 30, 2010
The road is currently washed out in several places. A pick, shovel and a strong back will be needed to repair the road. I believe it could be repaired in a few hours. Alternatively, hike longer. Oct 5, 2010
What a chill route! Except for getting into the chimney ha. My buddy and I climbed it yesterday and the weather was beautiful. The approach has to be hell in the summer heat. As far as gear we used a surprisingly small amount. Although we took triples of just about everything from a blue alien to #2 camalot, we never placed more than two of the same pieces besides a green and a red. Next time we go we'll probably take: 1 Blue Alien, 1 set of TCU's from blue to red, 1 purple link, 3 greens, 3 red's, 1 gold, and maybe a gold link as well. Jan 24, 2011
Vaughn   Colorado
We did a double rope rappel off the summit to the top of the chimney. There was substantial drag pulling the rope and ours got stuck. It took some panicked sawing and pulling to get it free. I would recommend descending in 3 single rope rappels. May 28, 2011
Denver, CO
Joshh   Denver, CO
Does anyone know if the dirt road to approach this climb is washed out? I have heard that it is from people, just want to make sure we plan for enough time to hike in if we need to start from 128... Nov 21, 2011
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
@Joshh: The road was in quite bad shape on 29 Oct 2011 (completely gone in a few locations where it was in the wash).

In my Corolla we made it about 1/8 mile or so before I'd had enough; a high-clearance vehicle would probably have made it another 1/8 to 1/4 mile or so without serious risk of damage/getting stuck.

Took us about 2 hours from the car to the base of the tower. Nov 21, 2011
Greg Gavin
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
Unless you have a high clearance vehicle you aren't going to make it far up the wash. Considering the likelyhood of getting stuck or washed out in less than 1/2 mile of driving up the wash vs. hiking 15 min from the road to the same spot you'd park. All in all Perin's time is pretty spot on if you hike from the road.

Also after speaking with Sam from FOIC the property right off 128 is owned by the Nature Convservancy, and they wish to keep the road as is. Meaning zero grading or road work.

Bottom line is - Hiking up the wash from the road is flat, and fast to the large cairn making the start of the main trail to Jah Man. Nov 21, 2011
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
Hi Gang
Here is the link to our FB page on the subject of this road.


Also, if you go there, "Like" us. The FOIC is working hard for climbing and the more friends we have, the more effective we can be... seriously.

Sam Nov 21, 2011
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
Had a great time on Jah Man on 9/21/2012. Super-classic route and summit for sure. As stated before, it's a bigger hike than Castleton or the Rectory. The road is still pretty bad. You can currently drive in about 1 mile from the road with a stock truck, but then it's better to just walk.

As for the route itself, if you are comfortable on the grade you could take doubles of #.75 and #1 camalot and be fine if you bump at all. #2 friends would also be money. If you want more, take #2 friends or #1 camalot, not a ton of .75s as stated earlier in the thread. You can also link both crux pitches pretty easily.

Also the first move, right off the ground, is tricky. You might want to short rope that as a 60' pitch, then just walk across the ledge to start the squeeze.

We rapped with a a single 60 in 3 raps. From the summit, go full rope (tie knots!!!) to the ledge. One more ~170 rap to the top of the squeeze. 1 more rap to the ground from the rings on the right of the ledge. Route gets a lot of sun! Start early if it's hot. Sep 24, 2012
Mike Willig  
What a great climb! It could only get better if the tower were taller!Anyone know why the bolt was put on the traverse? You could plug in any number of cams in the horizontal crack. Oct 5, 2012
Salt Lake City, UT
LJE15   Salt Lake City, UT
What a beautiful route! Two bits of beta:

1. We approached from Castleton and walked the ridge from the Rectory to the Sister Superior Group. It's a really nice scenic walk, and it took us a solid two hours. We talked with two other parties on the route that day, and they had come up the wash from the traditional approach up Ida Gulch rd. Those folks had said that it took about an hour and a half for them. Seems like sixes either way you go, and there is a fair bit of elevation gain and loss along the ridge, but if you were really motivated you could do something on Castleton in the morning and then make your way over to Jah Man.

2. The third pitch stepping over to the left felt like the crux to me. Pumpy! The next pitch is amazing thin hands. I used 3x .75's and 3x 1's. (BD camalots). Nov 6, 2012
Kelsey Sheely
Flagstaff, AZ
Kelsey Sheely   Flagstaff, AZ
Fun route, but I probably won't do it again. The chimney was quite a challenge to get into and helped to solidify my opinion of chimneys being heinous and obnoxious more than fun. The traverse on the 3rd pitch I thought was 10+ or I'm just getting weak over the winter. The 4th pitch was the funnest with a heady runout at the end. I definitely couldn't finish the boulder problem at the top either. If it weren't easy to aid up with the bolt right there, that single move would make this climb 5.11. Or maybe that's just cause I'm short.

I found no need for anything bigger than a #1 camalot. Feb 21, 2013
dave bingham
dave bingham  
Did the route with my 15 yr old son march '13. Awesome.

Drive: made it maybe a mile from the hwy. with a VW van. 1.5 hrs from there to rope-up.

Gear: We used "Best Moab Climbs"gear list - (and placed a lot of gear) but still had too many yellow and blue camalots. Not sure if we used a blue #3.

4 pitches including the mini summit pitch (V3 for short folk). No reason to belay before the squeeze IMO. 3 raps with a single 70m worked well.

Rating: Any route with a plus or minus is a sandbag! Our local 12c cave routes are easier than the crux of "Jah Man"...only kidding a little. Apr 4, 2013
Max Shaffer
Boston, MA
Max Shaffer   Boston, MA
The road is obviously rough, but our Subaru Forester handled it like a champ. Granted we had to do some reconstruction in parts using boulders to fill in large holes...

I definitely didn't think the chimney pitch as all that scary. The squeezes on Kor-Ingalls were way worse. We did Jah Man in four pitches, not five. The 5.10+ crux on pitch 3 is well protected. I was actually surprised that there was a bolt... much less 2 bolts... The final face climbing scramble to the top might actually be the hardest part, which I thought was more like 5.10 than 5.9. May 18, 2013
Chris Strouthopoulos
Durango, Co
Chris Strouthopoulos   Durango, Co
After about a 1/4 mile the road is now only passable by high clearance 4wd vehicles. The flash floods of this fall did a number on it.

We were able to make it perhaps a mile in a TRD Tacoma to a pile of table sized rocks across the wash that stopped us and a Jeep Rubicon. I pride myself in the places I've taken a subie and wouldn't head up this wash in one unless I stole it.

Appreciated the upgraded anchors by the way, especially at the top of the chimney. A big improvement over the old flexy fixed angles! Leaving the vintage hardware on the final pitch was a nice touch too.

We took doubles to #2 with triple .75 and 1's and could protect roughly every body length. Could get away with a single #2 as it was only placed after the crux on fairly cruiser 5.8ish terrain.

Oct 22, 2013
Climbed this route on March 10 2014 and left a black REI flash pack with medicine, a headlamp and a watch in it on the summit, somewhere near the center. I was super bummed to only realize I had forgotten it too late to go back and get it. If anyone would be kind enough to return it I would love to send you some beer money in exchange. Call me at 970 817 3376 or email at brandon.wolding@gmail.com
Thanks a bunch!

Gear beta, 4 0.75's and 4 #1's, only need 1 #2 at most, otherwise a single rack is plenty. The pitches are short and the cruz sections are only a couple moves long.

Killer climb, get on it! Mar 10, 2014
Bishop, CA
DennisL   Bishop, CA
Wonderful route! Link p1 and p2 for sure.

I agree w 4 X .75, 4 X #1 for the second thin hands pitch. Microcams (I think I used yellow C3) and nuts help protect the squeeze chimney, which is so mellow you may not feel the need to protect it. Apr 23, 2014
Bishop, CA
DennisL   Bishop, CA
Late April 2014: Loaded Forester made it up the wash/road with few problems. There is an impassable set of boulders eventually. Plenty of places to park that are out of the wash and not on crypto. Apr 23, 2014
Luke Mehall
Durango, Colorado
Luke Mehall   Durango, Colorado
Been working on replacing all the old 1/4 inch. bolts on this thing with beefy 1/2 inch bolts from the ASCA. We will be sure to yank em out too, at the moment they remain next to the replacements because we haven't carried a crow bar up yet. But, we will.

Also: I'd say heavier on the #1 camalots than the .75s. I think as many as five or six #1s is useful on that third pitch.

Praise Jah! Oct 25, 2014
Dave Alie
Golden, CO
Dave Alie   Golden, CO
Great route! The gear beta in this thread is pretty overwhelming so I'll resist adding another opinion except to say that I strongly recommend doing this route as two pitches.

The first two historical pitches (to the top of the chimney) don't really require much gear so you (hopefully!) arrive at the start of the "third" pitch with almost the entire rack. Fire the crux, belay, then take it to the top of the tower. Rope management is easy, and due to the nature of the route (no need to sew up the chimney as the climbing is very secure), combining pitches doesn't require loads of extra gear. Pitching this out as five, or even four, sections is unnecessary for the vast majority of parties and no doubt contributes to Jah Man's clogged reputation. Feb 25, 2015
Ryan Arnold
Ryan Arnold  
Climbed this last Friday March 27. Saw one other party the whole day. Combined 1+2 very smoothly. Pitch 3 was tough shortly off the belay until you hit the stance in the corner halfway up, but the crux traverse is bolt protected. Pitch 4 is slightly overhanging (so is first half of pitch 3); you don't really realize it until you rap down and are dangling slightly away from the wall. I have small hands and was expecting slammer #1 camalot sized jams, but it was more .75 sized with features/face footholds, and not a lot of pure jamming. Pumpy! I thought pitch 5 was a one-move wonder 10a, easier to free than the second-to-last pitch of Stolen Chimney, and I'd definitely link it to pitch 4 next time.

I used five camalot 0.75 and three camalot #1, plus one #2, one #3 (optional), and a selection of smaller cams. Three single rope raps with 70m to get down.

Only made it 0.3 miles up the wash in a sedan. Scraped up my bumper, too. Next time I'll just park at the entrance. Mar 30, 2015
Oakridge, OR
Ball   Oakridge, OR
A double rack to #2 with one extra .75 was fine. Didn't place any nuts, either. Not sure why there is a bolt on pitch 2 (it sent me the wrong way) May 20, 2015
Marcus St Jolie
Moab, UT
Marcus St Jolie   Moab, UT
Belay/rappel above pitch one is a bent piton and two bolts. one bolt is wiggly. the unnecessary crux traverse bolt is wiggly. Also wiggly is one bolt at the summit rappel (though I wouldn't really worry about that one). the crux is easier when you're wiggly too. I yoga'd a shoulder high heal hook in moccs. Jun 24, 2015
AL .
AL .   UT
Goes pretty well in two pitches for solid leaders. Ground up to the belay above the crux pitch and below the splitter thin hand crack (I think this is the 3rd belay if you count the tat at the squeeze). From there you can link up to the summit. Be advised you need a 70 meter rope. Also you can rap the tower in three raps with a single 70 m rope. Tie your ends! Sep 13, 2015
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
We had some problems and had to cut a rope on the first rappel. Watch out on letting your rope go into the wide crack on the ledge before the summit. One ina million chance. ...but it happened to us Sep 20, 2015
michael s...
Denver, CO
michael s...   Denver, CO
Awesome. No reason for that bolt on the traverse. Didn't place anything larger than a #1 camalot. Oct 10, 2015
Thinking about doing this route as a group of four. Bad idea? Is the summit big enough for four? Oct 31, 2015
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  

Plenty big. Oct 31, 2015
Mitch Friedeman
Boulder, CO
Mitch Friedeman   Boulder, CO
I can confirm that this route can easily be lead in two excellent pitches. Link the first two (chimney pitches) with the excellent 5.10 third pitch which ends on a pleasant belay ledge. Then linking the last two pitches is very easy and intuitive and should be done regardless since the last pitch is shorter and easy. Also the anchor on the summit is mediocre and could use a bit of a facelift. The newest bold up there is able to be pulled out of the rock by about 1/4 inch. Still safe but definitely a little sketchy.

Super great route, with excellent exposure, fun tight hand jams, and a burly ass hike to warm you up. May 16, 2016
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
It was very nice to climb a tower and not feel like I was going to die. A change from North Six Shooter! One of the best overall experiences on a desert tower thus far. Oct 13, 2016
The Blueprint Part Dank
The Blueprint Part Dank   FEMA Region VIII
Well, having finally knocked this off my list, I am officially jealous of folks with smaller hands! I consider BD #3's to be a hand-crack size.... and so I was in for a rude awakening on Jah Man. The first 5.10+ pitch wasn't too bad, speed and decisive footwork got me through without much sweat. But then as I lead into the second 10+ pitch I got a RUDE awakening as I tried to shove my fat mitts into the crack. I didn't wear tape gloves, and I'm SUPER glad I didn't, or the paltry few solid(ish) jams I did get on the pitch would have been a no go.

Had the crack on that pitch been just one inch wider, then this would probably be a top-five all time route for me, as the setting, rock quality and summit are just absolutely awesome! As is though, I will appreciate the climb's objective brilliance, but subjectively, some of my enjoyment was lost because of the unrelenting thin hands.

That all being said, even if you have fat mitts like me, this remains an absolute can't miss classic... it's just going to be a hard one! Oct 29, 2016
Anouk Erni
Portland, OR
Anouk Erni   Portland, OR
Great overall climb. Didn't feel too exposed on this route. The approach wasn't as bad as it looks. The climb would have been a bit more fun for me if the hand crack was a little wider. I have average size hands and it was still just a bit too small for me. We brought 2x.5, 4x.75, 4x1, 2x2 and 1x3 and used pretty much all of it, but we sewed it up a bit. I thought the crux was getting off the deck on that 3rd pitch (awkward moves with bad feet and small hand crack above), not the traverse, and I'm 5'11". If you link pitches, beware of rope drag - we ended up down climbing and splitting the sections after the chimney into 2 pitches. Rappelling was a bit sketchy, but maybe I'm just not used to bolts that can be simply plucked out of the rock.

Apr 1, 2017
David Champion
Centennial, CO
David Champion   Centennial, CO
Climbed Jah Man on 3/26/2017. Was shocked to discover the base of the P2 chimney has widened ~3 inches since the last time I did the route on 4/6/13. Back then, the crux of the pitch was getting into the chimney--a very tight squeeze, even for me at a lean buck-forty. This year I was able to waltz right into the thing.

I shared my observation with a friend and fellow climber who is a geotechnical engineer. He gives the pillar that forms the chimney 10 years max before it calves, and thinks it could go at any time.

To state the obvious, the loss of that pillar would change completely the nature of this climb, perhaps rendering it unclimbable (or at least a lot more difficult). Also to state the obvious, you don’t want to be anywhere near the tower when the thing goes, much less in the chimney itself (maybe consider using the tower side exclusively for pro on that pitch?).

God speed. Apr 18, 2017
Big Bert
Golden, Colorado
Big Bert   Golden, Colorado
Climbed this masterpiece this past weekend. Still feeling a little puzzled on things though. One of the 2 modern bolts and its hangers are spinners. Also still trying to figure out the usefulness of the chain attached to the bolt that completely pulls out on the summit :) I'd give this route 5 stars if possible bc it felt like a rad adventure the entire time we were on it.

Oh yea, check out the right most (climber right) bolted route that climbs the towers right arete. It looks AMAZING but sadly we didnt have time to test her out. May 17, 2017
Anna Coles
Cary, NC
Anna Coles   Cary, NC
I did this route yesterday with my partner and here is what we took. He didn't run it out by any means but I think you would really have to be sewing it up to need 6x .75 BD cams. I believe we placed one or two stoppers as well, BD sizes 7 or 8.

BD Camalots:
.3 x2 *** we didn't use the .4 or .5's at all. I believe we placed one .3
.4 x2
.5 x2
.75 x5 **** we only actually used 3 of these
1 x4
2 x1

The Approach:
Here are the coordinates for the road you need to take. On the right will be a sign for the Ida Gulch Equestrian Trail. The road climbers take is on the left. 38°41'32.3"N 109°24'36.7"W

As noted, the road is pretty rough. I have a Toyota RAV 4 and we drove it pretty much all the way in though, cutting out at least a half hour of hiking. The path is surprisingly well-worn and obvious, just follow the cairns! Super cool climb! Jun 3, 2017
mountainproject.com/photo/1… Summit bolt as of 10/12/2017. It sticks out 1/2" when shoved back into the hole. The rest of the anchor consists of a star drive + leeper hanger, and a drilled angle (which looked bomber).
I wouldn't recommend linking P4 and P5 if your 2nd has a chance of falling. This thing could use a few new modern bolts at most belays, and new tat on P1 anchors. Oct 16, 2017
Salt Lake City, UT
Dumptruck   Salt Lake City, UT
The bolt has been replaced with a #1 angle (by my wife), at least as a stop gap until somebody gets up there with a bolt kit. Anchor is now two drilled angles and a star drive. Nov 4, 2017
Sam Feuerborn
Sam Feuerborn   Carbondale
Anchor has been fixed. In the future I'd recommend folks put in hardware that will last rather than creating new holes for pitons...Just sayin'. Nov 13, 2017
Aidan Multhauf 1
Boulder, Colorado
Aidan Multhauf 1   Boulder, Colorado
Found an overcammed ultralight #1 on the 2nd pitch. We worked it for a while but only got it deeper. Happy hunting! Dec 25, 2017
Scott E
Scott E  
The approach road is closed to vehicles as of recently for "restoration". You still park at the Ida Gulch Equestrian Trail. The parking lot is right off the highway about 1 mile past the Castleton turnoff. From here, it took us about 1 hour to get to the base of the tower hiking at a fast pace.

We found the ideal rack to be:
1x #0.3
1x #0.4
2x #0.5
3x #0.75
4x #1
1x #2
No nuts were necessary but it was nice to have a few long runners for the first and second pitch. Mar 25, 2018
-Park at the Equestrian trail
-Drop into wash and follow the wash as it winds back and forth and you will spot an obvious trail marked with a cairn 40min (+or-)
-Follow the obvious trail to the base. Gets steep at times. Took my wife and I 1.5hrs total going slowish
-Link 1 and 2. A sorta stout move on P1 and an akward move into the chimney then very secure up to bolted ledge. Sooo Fun!
If there is a party in front of you, like there was when we did it, of course, you can build a bomber comfortable anchor with hand size gear at the start of the ledge, much nicer than all the tat at the start of P2
-P3 crux traverse left then mellow
-link 4 an 5 I found 3 .75s to be sufficient you may want more but can't imagine more than 4???
-can rap w/single 60 Top to 4, 4 to the anchor on the far end of the ledge right of P2, ground, easy walk back to the start May 6, 2018
To echo Scotts comment above, the road is still closed as of 11/18/18. Expect a long hike to get back to Jah Man. I am curious if the road will ever be re-opened. Nov 19, 2018