Avg: 3.9 from 573 votes
|Type:||Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 6 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Ken Trout and Kirk Miller, 1984|
|Page Views:||90,438 total · 374/month|
|Shared By:||Anonymous Coward on Nov 9, 2001 · Updates|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
The first pitch of Jah Man fell off. The route was reestablished with 2 or 3 new pitches on the bottom section.
Pitch 1: Start at the original start and climb up through one of two hand cracks systems that gains a ledge up and to the right. There is a bolt for a small Traverse to a two bolt anchor. This anchor is just left of the major horizontal that can be seen from the ground. 5.10, Gear: BD 0.3 - 3. PG13 because of detached pillars and rock quality.
Pitch 2: Hand traverse the horizontal crack for 30 feet. This crack will take anything from a BD .75-2. The crack does disappear for a few feet requiring some difficult face moves. Once at the junction of the horizontal crack and the vertical finger crack, build an anchor here. I used a BD .75, 3, and a red c3. 5.11+
Pitch 3: If you don't mind the rope drag from pitch 2, don't build an anchor and just keep going up the calcite finger crack. Otherwise, I would think most people would probably stop here and build an anchor. At the end of this 40 foot pitch, you'll land at the new anchor a few feet up and left of the old anchor (the anchor that was just above the pillar that fell). Gear: (Red C3's up to BD 0.5.) Solid 5.12.
Nothing new past this point... This is the original route.
Pitch 4: The fourth pitch heads straight up ten feet, traverses left (.10+) and then goes up an easy corner (5.9) to a nice ledge.
Pitch 5: follows the obvious 5.10 crack that trend up and left (wonderful thin hands). 5.10+ Gear: BD .4-2, mostly .75s and 1s.
Pitch 6: Steps around the corner and makes a few 9+/10- face moves to the summit. 4 bolts.
Rap the route with one 70 meter rope in 4 raps.