All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Grand County > Castle Valley > Sister Superior Group

Absolution

Name: Absolution
Rating: 2.0

5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British

Routes in Sister Superior Group

L › R R › L A › Z

	Absolution T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Baby Sister T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Black Sabbath T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Crazy Little Sister V-easy 3
	GAG Route, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Jah Man T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Slutty Sister T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Unknown Sister T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b C1

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Type:	Trad, 320 ft (97 m), 3 pitches, Grade III
GPS:	38.6726, -109.3753
FA:	Madeleine Sorkin and Chip Chace, FFA Josh Wharton and Chip Chace
Page Views:	1,149 total · 11/month
Shared By:	Chip Chace on Mar 26, 2018
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas. Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.

Access Issue: See this facebook.com/note.php?note_… from the Friends of Indian Creek Details

The road will not likely be in good shape for vehicular travel very often.

See this note facebook.com/note.php?note_… regarding the Ida Gulch road.

Description

P-1 Climb a left facing corner to a pod. Break out right and climb face relief to a prominent rail. You can stay closer to your gear by continuing another six feet up the corner though the climbing is harder and the rock crunchier. Hand-traverse the rail for 20 feet and belay. A #6 cam is handy for the end of the traverse but you can do another move and get in a mid size cam before the anchor. 100’, 5.11.

P-2 Move up and left on soft rock past a bolt to gain the varnished black, right facing corner. Climb this on thin, thoughtful gear to a no-hands rest. Either traverse left to a bolt and climb up and back right to the anchor, or continue up the blank corner past a bolt. 80’, 5.11 (left) or 5.13- (direct).

P-3 Proceed up and right on ledges until it is possible to step left into the corner above the soft rock. Continue up the corner to the summit. 70’, 5.9.

Location

Absolution climbs the prominent right facing corner system on the West face of the Sister Superior group, 150’ left of Jah Man.

Descent: 3 single rope rappels.