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Routes in Sister Superior Group

Absolution T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Baby Sister T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Sabbath T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Crazy Little Sister V-easy 3
GAG Route, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Jah Man T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slutty Sister T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Unknown Sister T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b C1
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Type: Trad, Aid, 90 ft
FA: Larry Hamilton and Tom Ruwitch, April 1972
Page Views: 1,362 total · 8/month
Shared By: L. Hamilton on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: See… from the Friends of Indian Creek Details


"Unknown Sister" is the name Desert Rock III gives to this slender tower, the most distinctive on the ridge north of Sister Superior. Although Bjornstad's guide credits the first ascent to "Harvey T. Carter, 1960s," this route and probably the tower were first climbed by Larry Hamilton and Tom Ruwitch in April, 1972. See a few photos from their ascent.

The route ascends an obvious splitter crack that widens from thin to five inches, on the west side of the tower. One bolt gains the base of the crack. Aid the crack until free climbing feels right. Bolt anchors, possibly old ones, should be found on the thin summit.


One bolt, thin to 5" crack; bolt anchors on summit.


Climbed this clean last week. It was definitely harder than C1. Finally got a baby angle to stick in the pin scar after the bolt. After that hooks and sketchy small stoppers before the crack opened up. Also getting to the bolt on tiny stoppers was exciting - decking potential here I thought.I had a skeleton rack so hb offsets,another baby angle for an empty hole (or hook it),and some bigger saw offs would come in handy.A fun little tower though. Judging from the webbing on top I'm guessing very few ascents - less than 5 ?? May 1, 2007
L. Hamilton
  5.10d C1
L. Hamilton  
  5.10d C1
Sounds like clean aid is trickier than the old days -- I just hammered pins and called it A1. We only drilled once, though, probably a 1/4" Star dryvin, to reach the main crack. Then a couple more good Star bolts for anchors on the summit, so if there are more holes than those three, they are retro. It's a cool little summit. May 7, 2008

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