Avg: 3.9 from 593
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
Access Issue: See this facebook.com/note.php?note_… from the Friends of Indian Creek
Details
The first pitch of Jah Man fell off. The route was reestablished with 2 or 3 new pitches on the bottom section.
Pitch 1: Start at the original start and climb up through one of two hand cracks systems that gains a ledge up and to the right. There is a bolt for a small Traverse to a two bolt anchor. This anchor is just left of the major horizontal that can be seen from the ground. 5.10, Gear: BD 0.3 - 3. PG13 because of detached pillars and rock quality.
Pitch 2: Hand traverse the horizontal crack for 30 feet. This crack will take anything from a BD .75-2. The crack does disappear for a few feet requiring some difficult face moves. Once at the junction of the horizontal crack and the vertical finger crack, build an anchor here. I used a BD .75, 3, and a red c3. 5.11+
Pitch 3: If you don't mind the rope drag from pitch 2, don't build an anchor and just keep going up the calcite finger crack. Otherwise, I would think most people would probably stop here and build an anchor. At the end of this 40 foot pitch, you'll land at the new anchor a few feet up and left of the old anchor (the anchor that was just above the pillar that fell). Gear: (Red C3's up to BD 0.5.) Solid 5.12. ***A crack has formed next to the crux crack on this pitch sometime between Jan. of '21 and Jan. of '24. There is a comparison photo of the crux in the photo gallery for reference.
Nothing new past this point... This is the original route.
Pitch 4: The fourth pitch heads straight up ten feet, traverses left (.10+) and then goes up an easy corner (5.9) to a nice ledge.
Pitch 5: follows the obvious 5.10 crack that trend up and left (wonderful thin hands). 5.10+ Gear: BD .4-2, mostly .75s and 1s.
Pitch 6: Steps around the corner and makes a few 9+/10- face moves to the summit. 4 bolts.
Rap the route with one 70 meter rope in 4 raps.
Bring a double set of Friends for this route.
Rappel the route (can be done in four with a single 60 meter rope, or three with a 70m). Use the newest sets of anchors.
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For the rack, I placed a couple nuts - maybe bring every other one. In addition, 1 set of cams blue TCU to #3 Camalot. Double up on #0.5 Camalot, 6x #0.75 Camalot, and 3x #1 camalots.
The first pitch as described can be broken into 2 shorter pitches. If you take two ropes to rappel, you can rap from the summit to the top of the squeeze. Then, one more rap to the ground. Rapping from the anchor below the summit is a little sketch since you are pulling out pretty hard on the anchor (drilled angles). The top of the squeeze has two sets of anchors - use the new ones to rap.
Fantastic route - one of the best. Possibly very crowded, though.
Nov 9, 2001
For the crux pitch and the thin hands pitch, I protected almost exclusively with .75 camalots and #2 friends. 6x was my quick quess as to what I carried, and this isn't too out of line from what is suggested in other guides. The guys ahead of us had 2x in this size (they were using the Falcon Rock Climbing Utah book which says bring a pile of #3 Friends - that's wrong, it should be #2s) , and they were certainly wishing for more.
I consider the pro list in the original description to be pretty bogus, but like I pointed out, people have done it with less than that. Personally, I'm not sure where one would place 2x#4, 2x#3.5, 2x#3, or 2x of anything smaller than 1.75 friends on this route. Maybe I just didn't notice those placements because I had so many thin hands pieces, I don't know. Like you, I'm simply offering another opinion. Nov 12, 2001
Aliens - 1 blue, 1 green, 2 yellow. Camalots - 3 x .5(purple), 5 x .75(green), 3 x 1(red), 2 x 2(yellow). No nuts, hexes or low grade shake.
Helmets are always recommended on towers, of course, but mine jammed at the awkward entrance to the squeeze so I chucked it. Belay ledges are clear of rubble.
This is an absolutely superior tower route. Nov 19, 2001
Around Boulder, CO
Maybe some people are like me, if it is a red or yellow camalot, who needs much gear (this is why I only own two of each of those sizes, but four 2" pcs.) Nov 20, 2001
I kept track of what we used after reviewing this page last week for beta. A comfortable rack was 4 #.75 (5 would not be out of line) and 3 #1 camalots and 2 of .4, .5 and #2 camalots. One piece smaller is nice in the chimney, and one piece larger could protect nasty fall on easier ground the final 20 feet of pitch 2. Definately only one piece (if any) in this size range. We also threw a large stopper to back up the first belay, although it probably wasn't necessary.
For the rap beta with one 60m rope: Rap the first three raps to the top of the same flake you tunneled behind for pitch one. The last rap is at the climbers right on the flake/ledge from the belay anchor that is used for the top of pitch one climbing. Shiny new hangers that drop you on the south prow in an easy rap. Walk 100 feet back around to your pack at the base.
Cheers, Frank Apr 8, 2002
Around Boulder, CO
Three .75 cams or #2 Friends and maybe three #1 Camalots. An orange alien backs up the manky bolt on pitch 2 nicely. The flake is going to break, someday soon perhaps. Two .5 Camalots is plenty and maybe a couple finger pieces. Nuts can certainly be placed all over this climb. Nothing bigger then a #3 Camalot is needed. Take #2 Camalot. Jan 28, 2004
Boulder, CO
Helena, MT
Oct 24, 2005
Bend
And, being 5 foot tall, I don't think the crux on the 3rd pitch is easier for short people. It's actually quite a reach to that gaston flake and the feet are way low! But totally doable. And the last pitch is pretty tough if you're short. I had to throw for the arete- very bouldery, but I stuck it and it was all good.
All in all this is an amazing route and well worth the walk! I thought the approach to the Rectory was way less steep than this one.
Oh, and yes the forged friend is still there. I could touch it and I felt it move, but since I was pumping out on lead, I didn't try to clean it ;) Apr 26, 2006
Santa Fe, NM
Grand Junction, CO
Idaho Springs, CO
slc, ut
the wasatch
Here
boulder, co
SLC
The squeeze pitch is easy, well-protected, and fun. This would make an ideal rack:
(3)-.5 (4)-.75 (3)-1 (1)-2 and aliens Nov 24, 2009
Boulder,Colorado
Telluride, CO
Colorado
Denver, CO
Orem, UT
In my Corolla we made it about 1/8 mile or so before I'd had enough; a high-clearance vehicle would probably have made it another 1/8 to 1/4 mile or so without serious risk of damage/getting stuck.
Took us about 2 hours from the car to the base of the tower. Nov 21, 2011
SLC, UT
Also after speaking with Sam from FOIC the property right off 128 is owned by the Nature Convservancy, and they wish to keep the road as is. Meaning zero grading or road work.
Bottom line is - Hiking up the wash from the road is flat, and fast to the large cairn making the start of the main trail to Jah Man. Nov 21, 2011
Lander, WY
Here is the link to our FB page on the subject of this road.
facebook.com/note.php?note_…
Also, if you go there, "Like" us. The FOIC is working hard for climbing and the more friends we have, the more effective we can be... seriously.
Sam Nov 21, 2011
Boulder, CO
As for the route itself, if you are comfortable on the grade you could take doubles of #.75 and #1 camalot and be fine if you bump at all. #2 friends would also be money. If you want more, take #2 friends or #1 camalot, not a ton of .75s as stated earlier in the thread. You can also link both crux pitches pretty easily.
Also the first move, right off the ground, is tricky. You might want to short rope that as a 60' pitch, then just walk across the ledge to start the squeeze.
We rapped with a a single 60 in 3 raps. From the summit, go full rope (tie knots!!!) to the ledge. One more ~170 rap to the top of the squeeze. 1 more rap to the ground from the rings on the right of the ledge. Route gets a lot of sun! Start early if it's hot. Sep 24, 2012
Salt Lake City, UT
1. We approached from Castleton and walked the ridge from the Rectory to the Sister Superior Group. It's a really nice scenic walk, and it took us a solid two hours. We talked with two other parties on the route that day, and they had come up the wash from the traditional approach up Ida Gulch rd. Those folks had said that it took about an hour and a half for them. Seems like sixes either way you go, and there is a fair bit of elevation gain and loss along the ridge, but if you were really motivated you could do something on Castleton in the morning and then make your way over to Jah Man.
2. The third pitch stepping over to the left felt like the crux to me. Pumpy! The next pitch is amazing thin hands. I used 3x .75's and 3x 1's. (BD camalots). Nov 6, 2012
Flagstaff, AZ
I found no need for anything bigger than a #1 camalot. Feb 21, 2013
Hailey, ID
Drive: made it maybe a mile from the hwy. with a VW van. 1.5 hrs from there to rope-up.
Gear: We used "Best Moab Climbs"gear list - (and placed a lot of gear) but still had too many yellow and blue camalots. Not sure if we used a blue #3.
4 pitches including the mini summit pitch (V3 for short folk). No reason to belay before the squeeze IMO. 3 raps with a single 70m worked well.
Rating: Any route with a plus or minus is a sandbag! Our local 12c cave routes are easier than the crux of "Jah Man"...only kidding a little. Apr 4, 2013
Reno, NV
I definitely didn't think the chimney pitch as all that scary. The squeezes on Kor-Ingalls were way worse. We did Jah Man in four pitches, not five. The 5.10+ crux on pitch 3 is well protected. I was actually surprised that there was a bolt... much less 2 bolts... The final face climbing scramble to the top might actually be the hardest part, which I thought was more like 5.10 than 5.9. May 18, 2013
Colorado Springs, CO
We were able to make it perhaps a mile in a TRD Tacoma to a pile of table sized rocks across the wash that stopped us and a Jeep Rubicon. I pride myself in the places I've taken a subie and wouldn't head up this wash in one unless I stole it.
Appreciated the upgraded anchors by the way, especially at the top of the chimney. A big improvement over the old flexy fixed angles! Leaving the vintage hardware on the final pitch was a nice touch too.
We took doubles to #2 with triple .75 and 1's and could protect roughly every body length. Could get away with a single #2 as it was only placed after the crux on fairly cruiser 5.8ish terrain.
Oct 22, 2013
Bishop, CA
I agree w 4 X .75, 4 X #1 for the second thin hands pitch. Microcams (I think I used yellow C3) and nuts help protect the squeeze chimney, which is so mellow you may not feel the need to protect it. Apr 23, 2014
Durango, CO
Also: I'd say heavier on the #1 camalots than the .75s. I think as many as five or six #1s is useful on that third pitch.
Praise Jah! Oct 25, 2014
Golden, CO
The first two historical pitches (to the top of the chimney) don't really require much gear so you (hopefully!) arrive at the start of the "third" pitch with almost the entire rack. Fire the crux, belay, then take it to the top of the tower. Rope management is easy, and due to the nature of the route (no need to sew up the chimney as the climbing is very secure), combining pitches doesn't require loads of extra gear. Pitching this out as five, or even four, sections is unnecessary for the vast majority of parties and no doubt contributes to Jah Man's clogged reputation. Feb 25, 2015
SLC
I used five camalot 0.75 and three camalot #1, plus one #2, one #3 (optional), and a selection of smaller cams. Three single rope raps with 70m to get down.
Only made it 0.3 miles up the wash in a sedan. Scraped up my bumper, too. Next time I'll just park at the entrance. Mar 30, 2015
Oakridge, OR
Ouray, CO
Nomad
Missoula, MT
Orem, UT
Plenty big. Oct 31, 2015
Boulder, CO
Super great route, with excellent exposure, fun tight hand jams, and a burly ass hike to warm you up. May 16, 2016
TN? NV? UT?
FEMA Region VIII
Had the crack on that pitch been just one inch wider, then this would probably be a top-five all time route for me, as the setting, rock quality and summit are just absolutely awesome! As is though, I will appreciate the climb's objective brilliance, but subjectively, some of my enjoyment was lost because of the unrelenting thin hands.
That all being said, even if you have fat mitts like me, this remains an absolute can't miss classic... it's just going to be a hard one! Oct 29, 2016
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Centennial, CO
I shared my observation with a friend and fellow climber who is a geotechnical engineer. He gives the pillar that forms the chimney 10 years max before it calves, and thinks it could go at any time.
To state the obvious, the loss of that pillar would change completely the nature of this climb, perhaps rendering it unclimbable (or at least a lot more difficult). Also to state the obvious, you don’t want to be anywhere near the tower when the thing goes, much less in the chimney itself (maybe consider using the tower side exclusively for pro on that pitch?).
God speed. Apr 18, 2017
Birmingham, AL
Oh yea, check out the right most (climber right) bolted route that climbs the towers right arete. It looks AMAZING but sadly we didnt have time to test her out. May 17, 2017
Cary, NC
BD Camalots:
.3 x2 *** we didn't use the .4 or .5's at all. I believe we placed one .3
.4 x2
.5 x2
.75 x5 **** we only actually used 3 of these
1 x4
2 x1
The Approach:
Here are the coordinates for the road you need to take. On the right will be a sign for the Ida Gulch Equestrian Trail. The road climbers take is on the left. 38°41'32.3"N 109°24'36.7"W
As noted, the road is pretty rough. I have a Toyota RAV 4 and we drove it pretty much all the way in though, cutting out at least a half hour of hiking. The path is surprisingly well-worn and obvious, just follow the cairns! Super cool climb! Jun 3, 2017
SLC
I wouldn't recommend linking P4 and P5 if your 2nd has a chance of falling. This thing could use a few new modern bolts at most belays, and new tat on P1 anchors. Oct 16, 2017
Desert, NM
Carbondale
We found the ideal rack to be:
1x #0.3
1x #0.4
2x #0.5
3x #0.75
4x #1
1x #2
No nuts were necessary but it was nice to have a few long runners for the first and second pitch. Mar 25, 2018
-Drop into wash and follow the wash as it winds back and forth and you will spot an obvious trail marked with a cairn 40min (+or-)
-Follow the obvious trail to the base. Gets steep at times. Took my wife and I 1.5hrs total going slowish
-Link 1 and 2. A sorta stout move on P1 and an akward move into the chimney then very secure up to bolted ledge. Sooo Fun!
If there is a party in front of you, like there was when we did it, of course, you can build a bomber comfortable anchor with hand size gear at the start of the ledge, much nicer than all the tat at the start of P2
-P3 crux traverse left then mellow
-link 4 an 5 I found 3 .75s to be sufficient you may want more but can't imagine more than 4???
-can rap w/single 60 Top to 4, 4 to the anchor on the far end of the ledge right of P2, ground, easy walk back to the start May 6, 2018
Salt Lake City
Moab, UT
On Wednesday, January 15th 2020 a party 4 climbers gained access to an existing anchor that was previously gained (prior to the recent geologic event) by ascending the initial chimney pitch of the route Jah Man- approximately 100' above the base of the tower.
Access to the anchor was gained by climbing the 10-20' that remains of the original start to the route Jah Man and continuing up a right to left angling ramp to gain a bedding seam that was hand traversed from left to right for approximately 10 feet to gain the left of two crack systems. The left of the two crack systems was followed up to an area comprised of ledges where the two crack systems converge and where a directional protection bolt was placed. About 8' to the right of the directional protection bolt a fixed anchor was established at a ledge. This anchor was the end of the initial pitch (5.10/ approximately 75'/ use long runners to reduce rope drag).
From the anchor a second pitch was climbed via direct aid beginning with a horizontal left to right crack (1-3") traverse of approximately 30' to a finger crack that ascends ~30+' to the pre-existing Jah-Man anchor (C-2 60ish feet/ good protection).
The horizontal traverse of the second pitch was free climbed on top rope without falling from left to right at 5.11.
The 2nd half of the 2nd pitch (from the end of the horizontal traverse to the pre-existing anchor) was free climbed on top rope with out falling at 5.12.
Observations:
The tower base area between the Jah Man and Nuns With Guns routes is unstable and actively settling. On Tuesday and Wednesday, Jan. 14th & 15th, spontaneous rock sliding in the impact area was occurring and continuing over the 50' rock band below the base.
The 10-20' at the beginning of the start of Jah Man that remains appears to have shifted during the rock fall and may be unstable. Rope drag is a challenge due to the wandering nature of the 1st pitch and because of the depth of the v-slot with the hand crack in the back of it.
A major portion of the south terminus of the tower is fractured and has serac-like features that appear potentially unstable. There are spontaneous and sporadic sand spin drifts propagating from the fractures in this area indicating movement.
The first pitch (5.10+) of Nuns With Guns is gone with the the flake that fell. The second pitch (5.12) is in limbo above the anchor that had been accessed from the upper right side of the flake.
The calcite face that was behind the flake is not featured in way that is conducive to free climbing.
Be careful out there. Jan 16, 2020
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Personally I still believe this to be a five star route, with now a two star approach pitch. The traverse will keep most novice climbers at bay, even though Falls would be clean. Build a hanging belay (2x .75) on a 3 inch ledge at the end of the traverse. The 5.12 calcite finger crack is extremely clean with phenomenal movement. There is one loose block pulling the bulge that keeps the crack at a moderate grade (12c) please pull down and not out here! When this goes that sequence will become much more difficult. Your best practice would be to clip the old anchor and continue three more feet to a small ledge where you can build a new anchor (.75-1) Sometime in the near future the old anchor will be pulled and repositioned here. It will still allow for decent with a single 70 m rope Jan 16, 2020
Moab, UT
P1 There are two hand cracks systems to choose from, the left is 5.10 PG13 because of rock quality and loose pillars. BD .5-3 doubles in 3's. 90 feet.
P2 Hand Traverse takes BD .75-2. There is a section of the horizontal crack that disappears for a few feet making it very exciting and difficult face climbing. ~5.11+
I belayed at the junction of the horizontal and the start of the vertical finger crack. Gear anchor (BD 2x .75, 1x 3... can also use red c3). 30 feet.
P3 Crank hard 5.12 on calcite fingers with marginal feet. Carefully climb on the detached block past the bulge. Red C3s to 0.5. Belay anchors are ontop of the detached block. 40 feet, 5.12 or C1
Nothing new past this point, from here starts the classic step left pitch.. at 5.10+ Jan 9, 2021
Broomfield, CO