Type: Trad, 5 pitches, Grade III
GPS: 38.6571, -109.3678
FA: Chip Chace & Pat Ellingwood, 1984
Page Views: 88,336 total · 291/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Oct 25, 2001 · Updates
Admins: slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher

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Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is a classic desert line to the top of the rectory. Some great varied crack climbing. This is a must do desert climb. To reach, hike up the trail to the base of Castleton and then traverse North on the ridge for a couple hundred yards to reach the base of the rectory. The route climbs the crack system on the Southern prow of the rectory facing Castleton Tower.

P1: Climb a fist crack past a pod and make a difficult thin hands move right. Climb up to a ledge with anchors. (5.10+)

P2: Continue thin hands to fingers through a bulge to a ledge with bolts and belay. (5.10) (you can link P1 and P2

P3: Step right and jam thin cracks to a horizontal break. Jam a sustained finger crack to a pod. Jam the finger and hand crack up left over a couple bulges to a 2-bolt anchor on a ledge. (5.11a)

P4: Make some lieback moves in a corner, then pass a short rotten section to a roof. Continue up the crack to a big ledge and belay 

P5: Continue up the 5.11 bolted face to the top. Or, if climbing the original route, traverse directly left from the big ledge below the top for 25-30 feet or so and top out a steep crack in a corner.

Descent- 3 double rope rappels down the route or 5 single rope rappels with a 70M

Protection Suggest change

2-3 sets of cams to #3 Camalot. A set of stoppers.

Descent Suggest change

Rappel the route. Four rappels with a single 70 (the first rappel skips the anchor at the base of the final pitch).

Photos

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