Type: Trad, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Chip Chace & Pat Ellingwood, 1984
Page Views: 65,297 total · 303/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Oct 25, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is a classic desert line to the top of the rectory. Some great varied crack climbing. This is a must do desert climb. To reach, hike up the trail to the base of Castleton and then traverse North on the ridge for a couple hundred yards to reach the base of the rectory. The route climbs the crack system on the Southern prow of the rectory facing Castleton Tower.

P1- Climb a fist crack past a pod and make a difficult thin hands move right. Climb up to a ledge with anchors, pass them and continue thin hands to fingers to a ledge with bolts and belay. (5.10+)

P2- Continue up the crack to a finger crack through a bulge. Past the bulge climb a hand crack past a small roof to a belay stance. (5.11a)

P3- Make some lieback moves, then pass a short rotten section to a roof. Continue up the crack to a big ledge and belay or continue up the 5.11 bolted face to the top. If climbing the original route, traverse directly left from the big ledge below the top for 25-30 feet or so and top out a steep crack in a corner.

Descent- 3 double rope rappels down the route.

Protection

2-3 sets of cams to #3 Camalot. A set of stoppers.

Photos