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Routes in The Rectory

Coyote Calling T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crack Wars T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
East Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Empirical Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Find Shade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fine Jade T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hail Mary T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Ministry T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Off To See The Allah T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sinners and Infidels T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Chip Chace & Pat Ellingwood, 1984
Page Views: 56,620 total, 289/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Oct 25, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is a classic desert line to the top of the rectory. Some great varied crack climbing. This is a must do desert climb. To reach, hike up the trail to the base of Castleton and then traverse North on the ridge for a couple hundred yards to reach the base of the rectory. The route climbs the crack system on the Southern prow of the rectory facing Castleton Tower.

P1- Climb a fist crack past a pod and make a difficult thin hands move right. Climb up to a ledge with anchors, pass them and continue thin hands to fingers to a ledge with bolts and belay. (5.10+)

P2- Continue up the crack to a finger crack through a bulge. Past the bulge climb a hand crack past a small roof to a belay stance. (5.11a)

P3- Make some lieback moves, then pass a short rotten section to a roof. Continue up the crack to a big ledge and belay or continue up the 5.11 bolted face to the top. If climbing the original route, traverse directly left from the big ledge below the top for 25-30 feet or so and top out a steep crack in a corner.

Descent- 3 double rope rappels down the route.

Protection

2-3 sets of cams to #3 Camalot. A set of stoppers.

Photos

Derek West Newman
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Derek West Newman   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
This is certainly the best climb I've ever been on. The first and second pitches really feel equally difficult, but I'd argue that the first pitch is more physical, whereas the second pitch is more technical. In regards to gear, I'd recommend a #4 Camalot if 5.11 is at your limit. You can find #2 and #3 Camalots above and below the first pitch's wide section. The #4 also protects right off the first set of anchors, but again, there are placements above that other wide section. Gear goes everywhere on this beautiful route. As for the final pitch, we went up the bolted line, and didn't regret it.
Nov 22, 2016
Adam Fleming
Moab, Utah
 
Adam Fleming   Moab, Utah
 
The bolt on p1 has no hanger. You could rig a nut on it, but there's stellar pro right by it.

The "OW" on p1 is just a pod where you reach up into thin hands. Maybe it's OW if you're really short (5 foot or so). No need to bring the #4 for this pitch or the traverse pitch.

2 double 70m raps are perfect. Skip the party ledge with the two anchors and head to the much smaller ledge with three bolts (2 rap hangers, 1 standard hanger). There is potential for your ropes to get eaten by the finger crack when you pull them. May 20, 2017
Alex Vidal
Boulder, CO
 
Alex Vidal   Boulder, CO
 
If you really want to enjoy Fine Jade, be sure to do it directly following Honeymoon Chimney. Oct 26, 2015
SummitSender  
 
Gear List For Solid 5.11 Climber:
BD Sizes
Nuts BD #6-14
(1).1
(2).2
(2-3).3
(4-5).4
(2-3).5
(2-3).75
(3-4)#1
(2)#2
(1)3
NO #4 or larger (the one pod low is tight hands in the back and short enough to reach past the pod with good jams. My 5'6" girlfriend lead it no problem with out the #4)
(7-10) Runners (Pitch 2 Needs A lot!)
5 Draws
1 70m Rope
Sport Finish is Rad!
Amazing Route! Oct 15, 2015
Aaron Livingston
Moab, UT
  5.11a
Aaron Livingston   Moab, UT
  5.11a
Simul climbed the whole thing in a single pitch w/ my buddy Richard yesterday. Summitted in around 1 hour :) Linked w/ Sacred Ground and then followed it up w/ North Chimney which went down in 33:57. Best day of climbing I've ever had in the desert and I still made it to work :) single 70m rope rap to the anchors above the crux, then the intermediate 1st pitch anchors then the ground, tie your ends! Single rack of micro cams from grey to blue metolius, doubles from .3-2.0 black diamond,one #3, draws. Jul 16, 2015
b Light
Salt Lake City, Utah
b Light   Salt Lake City, Utah
Rack
  • (4) #.3-#.4
  • (2) #.5,#.75,#1
  • (3) #2
  • (2) #3
  • (2) #4
  • Single set of master cams (0,1,2) or C3 (0,1,2)
  • Small nuts
  • 10 Runners
  • 70m Rope

First bolt on Coyote Finish is a bit high. The traverse pitch is fun and cool to watch your partner turn the corner with Castleton in the background.

Rap with a single 70.

Favorite desert tower??? Possibly :) Aug 4, 2014
Brandon Gottung
Moab, UT
 
Brandon Gottung   Moab, UT
 
Rap beta with 80 m rope: From top, down to anchor on top of sugar pitch. From there, an 80 gets within 1-2 feet of the anchor on top 1st pitch, so it's best to stop at the anchor on top crux pitch. From there, an 80 just gets you to the intermediate on pitch 1 - knot the ends! Then to the ground. May 3, 2014
DennisL
Bishop, CA
 
DennisL   Bishop, CA
 
Super high-quality route. First 2 pitches are varied and steep on excellent rock. Do NOT do the original 5.7 traverse on the last pitch - once you go left around the corner, rope drag becomes a serious problem. The bolt ladder is fun, quick, and probably 11-. Apr 23, 2014
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
After climbing this on beautiful day in November 2013 I returned to my pack I had left at the base to find a hole chewed in the top of it and through a sealed ziplock bag inside to some homemade granola bars.

I had never heard of anyone having a problem with varmint chewing into packs in the desert, so I thought I'd leave a little warning for others.
Nov 12, 2013
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
Alex Honnold recently sent the route in 8:10, yeah, as in 8 minutes and 10 seconds. It often takes me that long to put on my shoes (I chalk my feet heavily, which takes longer LOL).

Here's the link to the video: goalzero.com/alexhonnold/?u…

Um............ Nov 5, 2013
About 15-20 feet up pitch 3 is a loose dinner plate sized rock. It should be removed. There was a party behind us so we didn't want to mess with it. Also, our rope got stuck on that same rock while pulling our ropes on our descent. What a f*#K fest.

For the descent, I would recommend doing a single rope rappel from the summit to the top of pitch 3 and then a double 60M rope rappel to the intermediate anchor on pitch 2 and then another double 60M rope rappel to the ground.

I would highly recommend NOT rappelling west off of the rappel anchors at the top of pitch 2. The intermediate rappel anchor, which is required to get to the ground, is hard to get to since the rappel anchor is in an alcove. We needed to swing on free rappel to get to that ledge. If you do rappel that way, make sure you have nothing short of 2 60M ropes. From that hard to get to intermediate anchor, it is exactly 200 feet to the ground. Again, our ropes got stuck on various ledges and rocks via that west face descent.

Oh, and that first pitch is most definitely not 10-. wtf??? Nov 2, 2013
Ball
Oakridge, OR
  5.11a
Ball   Oakridge, OR
  5.11a
Did this route sick (fighting Montezuma) but thankfully drew a short straw for the first pitch which I found to be 10-. Second was the crux 11a and did the bolted finish which was very balance-y.

I did use the #4 in the pod, but it really wasn't necessary. Used KDog's beta for raps Oct 15, 2013
Great route!

This is what I wish I had brought
(1)0C3,(2)1C3,(2)2C3,(3).4,(2).5,(3).75,(2)1,(2)2,
(1)70m rope

I did not place a single 3 or 4. Most descriptions lead one to believe that you will be fist jamming and doing OW moves. I did neither. I remember tight hands to perfect hands, reach past the wide, back to tight hands.

Great .4 finger locks through the crux but the feet suck.

I did the bolted finish. I found it thought provoking but very doable, but not easy. Mar 20, 2013
Just my opinion, but I would highly advise NOT doing a double rap from the very top (down to the 2nd pitch anchors, if I remember correctly.) I've gotten my ropes stuck doing this rap 2 different times now. If I were to do it again I'd do a single rap down to the 3rd pitch anchors---where you belay for the 'sport pitch' going to the top---and then go from there. Kind of annoying since it's a short rap, but it might save you a lot of time and energy from having to climb back up to untangle your ropes! Oct 23, 2012
JayJ  
Great climb! OW, thin, and face cruxes. Feb 24, 2012
Kurt Prond
Bozeman, MT
Kurt Prond   Bozeman, MT
No, I think BD .4s are typically good finger locks, .5s are rattly fingers. Depends on the size of your fingers. I also thought pitch 1 was just as hard(more sustained) than the finger crack. We did this route an a very windy day in 2010. Made rappelling tough. At one point, we coiled our ropes and tossed them, and they blew straight up! Feb 23, 2012
Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
  5.11-
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)  
  5.11-
@ Tommy:

I could be wrong but I thought .5 was perfect fingers for most people? I like .4's better but if .5's are ring locks for you then you have TINY fingers. I remember placing two .4's and getting solid locks, as well as a few .5 sections.

That was the first finger crack I've ever lead and my first desert lead as well. We don't have many cracks like that here. My partner stopped at the first belay on P1 so I lead the hands/fingers part of P1 AND all of P2. Still easier than the OW move to the right on P1.

Excellent climb.
Jan 6, 2011
Tommey-James
Boulder,Colorado
  5.11b
Tommey-James   Boulder,Colorado
  5.11b
Hey so I dont know how one could possibly say that any move on pitch one is more diffcult then the so called finger crack on pitch 2. The crack on pitch 2 is .5 size and is ring locks for me, I didnt find a solid finger lock (.4) anywhere on the buldge crux on the second pitch. Overall great route, well worth doing if you are in the area. Nov 24, 2010
Mike Tsuji
Boulder, CO
 
Mike Tsuji   Boulder, CO
 
My partner and I got our ropes stuck coming off in some crazy winds. $100 reward for their return, we will pay shipping to boulder!!! Nov 24, 2010
Terence
Almont, CO
 
Terence   Almont, CO
 
Amazing is all I have to say.

We hauled gear and camped on top. Sunrise was gorgeous. A must do for the grade. Oct 18, 2010
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Best aesthetics of any desert route in the area. Being that I suck at crack, the 11a sport finish felt like a breeze compared to the 2nd pitch finger crack. There isn't any feet! At least 4 .5 camalots for that pitch, and possibly that many .4's as well. It felt like that was all I placed on that pitch. The 2nd two roofs on pitch 2 are much easier(and therefore felt more fun) then the first. Jul 14, 2010
mtoensing
Boulder
  5.11-
mtoensing   Boulder
  5.11-
We didn't bring a nut tool with us yesterday on fine jade and got a hex stuck on the first pitch and a cam stuck on the second pitch. Sorry kind of lame but it happens. If anyone happens to retrieve those pieces I am willing to pay for shipping. I talked to some of you out there who were going up there today so hopefully you guys got those pieces.

Thanks a lot everyone,

Matt Oct 12, 2009
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
70m works fine, dont take a #4 camolot, take only one #3, four #.4's, three of everything from #.5 - #2, and one blue tcu.

great route every pitch is stellar and definately do the face finish. Dec 2, 2008
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
Dean, I rapped this route with a 60 meter one time. One rap (I can't recall which as it was several years ago) took all the rope, but with a 70 you'll be able to do it comfortably. Aug 24, 2008
Possible to Rap with one 70M? Aug 24, 2008
James Tucker
  5.11a
James Tucker  
  5.11a
We just climbed Fine Jade yesterday. I agree with Mike's comment about the first pitch being harder than the technical crux in some ways. The individual moves are probably easier, but it's a little awkward and it's right off the ground. Maybe I just wasn't warmed up yet. I also found the last pitch to be honest 5.11 sport, but in a tricky way, not a pumpy way. I'm tall and found it a little reachy, but my partner found a totally different way to do it so maybe I just didn't look hard enough. I'll try the original finish next time.

Don't forget to bring enough small stuff. I would bring two or three of both blue and yellow TCU-sized cams for the thin crack parts. Also, don't worry about starting up the route with another party above you, as there is an entire second set of rap stations that will allow parties to pass one another easily. I recommend two 60s as the pitches are all longer than 100 feet. All the anchors on the route are fantastic, as is the rock quality. Hands down one of the best desert free routes I've done to date, and one I suspect I will return to do many times. Apr 29, 2008
Luke Malatesta
Moab Utah
 
Luke Malatesta   Moab Utah
 
Just did this route on Aug 12.....Amazing...nobody around, super quality and sustained for the most part. Aug 15, 2007
Mike
Phoenix
  5.11a
Mike   Phoenix
  5.11a
What a wonderful route. IMHO the pod low on the 1st pitch was harder than the "crux" second pitch finger crack. I actually thought it was harder to follow the 1st than it was to lead the second. As for the last pitch, I thoroughly enjoyed the classic finish. Oct 17, 2006
Aimee Rose
Bend, or
 
Aimee Rose   Bend, or
 
Wow, more like 5.10, for the bolted finish? Were we on the same route? I regularly climb 5.12 sport and I couldn't make the moves on the 5.11 final pitch. I took a whipper on the first bolt (coming close to the ledge) and then not wanting to hit the ledge, actually put my fingers through the second bolt- scary, but effective. You must be about 6 foot tall for that pitch to feel easy! In retrospect, I wish we would have done the traverse finish. Mar 23, 2006
Max Schon  
 
First of all, the bolted line at the end of Fine Jade is actually the proper finish to Coyote Calling. Second, that section is not .11a, more like .10, the 5.7 finish is WAY more fun. Third, a #4 Cam on the first pitch!? Fine Jade is one of the few towers you don't need such a big piece. May 13, 2004
The #4 could go either way--if you place it on the first pitch, you can then clip it to an anchor above and grab it on the way down. The climb can be done in three pitches: from the ground to just below the "crux" 5.11 fingers, then to just below the bolts, then the top. Amazing route, tough and pumpy from the get-go. Nov 24, 2003
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
Here's another vote for bringing the #4 on P1. Put it this way: you don't need it for safety, but if the climbing is at your limit, it may give you the peace of mind to make the difference between sending and hanging. Plus, it frees up the good hand jams, where you would otherwise have to place pro after the wide stuff.

The bolt is not only old and scary, but is next to a good #2 Camalot placement rather than the wide section. Sep 16, 2003
Most, if not all, 5.11a desert leaders will want the #4 Camalot for the pod on the first pitch. Most people will find this section to be the crux of the climb. Mar 31, 2003
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
First off, frickin' incredible! Hats off to Chip and Pat for spotting this beauty! An elegant line combined with exposed, varied climbing. Every pitch is a winner. Don't bother hauling up a #4 Camalot to protect the 4th (traverse pitch), as it isn't necessary. The only #4 placement I made on the entire route was about 20' up on the first pitch, but there is good gear directly above and below. My gear recommendation: doubles from blue TCUs to #3 Camalots, with an extra red (#1) and gold (#2) Camalot. Enjoy! Mar 30, 2003
In the for what its worth catagory:

With 2 - 200 foot ropes, you can get down in two raps. The first rap takes you to the nice belay just below the crux with 5 feet to spare, and the second rap puts you on the ground with perhaps 40 feet to spare. I wish I had paid more attention to the midpoint going up, because I think you probably could get off the top with 1 200 footer, but I wouldn't want to bet my life on it.

Very nice stuff, fun summit. Agree with all of the above, the traverse pitches are a kick.

Cheers, Frank Apr 8, 2002
I also like the old finish.I was able to do the hand traverse and the corner to the top in one pitch. If you don't place much pro on the traverse (there isn't much to speak of anyway), the rope drag isn't bad at all. So, three pitches including the historical finish are possible with a 60m rope. Feb 5, 2002
It should be stated that on your first time up this route, you should definitely do the original finish. It can easily be dismissed due to the "5.7" grade but it is FAR more adventuresome and, I would argue, higher quality than the bolted finish. Description: belay from the base of the bolt ladder. Hand traverse the ledge with no feet and lots of exposure straight left and belay just around the corner. A #4 Camalot helps protect the traverse for the 2nd. The final pitch heads up the obvious feature around the corner. I won't give the beta for the finish, but it isn't as weird as many of the guidebook route descriptions make it out to be. Nov 1, 2001