Early Access
| Type: | Trad, 5 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 38.6571, -109.3678 |
| FA: | Chip Chace & Pat Ellingwood, 1984 |
| Page Views: | 88,336 total · 291/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Folsom on Oct 25, 2001 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
This is a classic desert line to the top of the rectory. Some great varied crack climbing. This is a must do desert climb. To reach, hike up the trail to the base of Castleton and then traverse North on the ridge for a couple hundred yards to reach the base of the rectory. The route climbs the crack system on the Southern prow of the rectory facing Castleton Tower.
P1: Climb a fist crack past a pod and make a difficult thin hands move right. Climb up to a ledge with anchors. (5.10+)
P2: Continue thin hands to fingers through a bulge to a ledge with bolts and belay. (5.10) (you can link P1 and P2
P3: Step right and jam thin cracks to a horizontal break. Jam a sustained finger crack to a pod. Jam the finger and hand crack up left over a couple bulges to a 2-bolt anchor on a ledge. (5.11a)
P4: Make some lieback moves in a corner, then pass a short rotten section to a roof. Continue up the crack to a big ledge and belay
P5: Continue up the 5.11 bolted face to the top. Or, if climbing the original route, traverse directly left from the big ledge below the top for 25-30 feet or so and top out a steep crack in a corner.
Descent- 3 double rope rappels down the route or 5 single rope rappels with a 70M



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