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Routes in The Rectory

Coyote Calling T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crack Wars T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
East Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Empirical Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Find Shade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fine Jade T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hail Mary T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Ministry T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Off To See The Allah T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sinners and Infidels T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jay Smith & John Catto
Page Views: 485 total · 9/month
Shared By: Matt Pesce on Nov 13, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description


P1: the route shares the first~100' with Off to see the Allah. Continue up the clean off fingers/fingers corner with thick featured calcite. Fixed anchors are found at a stance to the right. 150'
P2 Traverse directly right and find a wide splitter crack (#4 Cam.) continue up crack to deep left facing corner system which becomes steeper and at a scary hollow flake becomes right facing (crux) fingers. Back to good rock and nice hands to another fixed anchor. 190'
P3: I went straight up past a ceiling with scary loose flakes above the belay. My follower trundled most of these. We both felt the corner to the right deserved a closer look as it might be cleaner and less scary. 50'

This route has some awesome and beautiful calcite, solid rock mixed with 2 short sections of terrifying rock. Go do it. 3 stars with some cleaning.

Location

Route is located in the center of the W. face of the Rectory where a large, clean calcite face meets darker rock to the south. A corner system is formed by this junction.

Protection

(1 ea.) 00-#4 Camalot with maybe (3 ea.).4-1 Camalots

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Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
  5.10d
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
  5.10d
I felt this route was more like .11a and almost 3 stars but maybe I was just terrified.
Can I say again how awesomely cool the calcite was ? Nov 13, 2013

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