Sinners and Infidels
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Jay Smith & John Catto |
Page Views: | 1,299 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Matt Pesce on Nov 13, 2013 |
Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
P1: the route shares the first~100' with Off to see the Allah. Continue up the clean off fingers/fingers corner with thick featured calcite. Fixed anchors are found at a stance to the right. 150'
P2 Traverse directly right and find a wide splitter crack (#4 Cam.) continue up crack to deep left facing corner system which becomes steeper and at a scary hollow flake becomes right facing (crux) fingers. Back to good rock and nice hands to another fixed anchor. 190'
P3: I went straight up past a ceiling with scary loose flakes above the belay. My follower trundled most of these. We both felt the corner to the right deserved a closer look as it might be cleaner and less scary. 50'
This route has some awesome and beautiful calcite, solid rock mixed with 2 short sections of terrifying rock. Go do it. 3 stars with some cleaning.
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