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Routes in The Rectory
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Book of Thunder T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Coyote Calling T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Crack Wars T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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East Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Empirical Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Find Shade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fine Jade T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hail Mary T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Jesus Saves T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Ministry T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Off To See The Allah T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sinners and Infidels T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,577 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Scott McLeod on May 29, 2014 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Find Shade is a great route just left of Fine Jade, and sharing the last two pitches. While the rating is similar, it is less sustained than Fine Jade, sporting short cruxes instead. It is a great alternative with clean lines and fun climbing.
P1- Start 30' left of Fine Jade on the Rectory. You will see a bolt about 20' off the ground, which is the crux of pitch one. Climb past the bolt to lower angle terrain. Build an anchor at the base of the double cracks directly in front of you. 5.11- 50'
P2- Climb up the FUN double cracks sticking primarily to the right crack. At about 25', step and reach right to gain the crack 5' right. Continue up this crack until the crack peters out at a sloping ledge with lots of face features. Place whatever gear you can, and move right across the face 10' until you gain the crack out right, again. Gain the ledge for a two bolt belay. Pitch 1 and 2 can be linked for a 200+ foot pitch. 5.10
P3- Continue around a small roof, then into 10-15 feet of thoughtful 10+ climbing. YOu will soon come to the bolted belay of Fine Jade, just below the sandy 5.9 pitch. You can either belay here for a short pitch, or continue will very manageable rope drag up the bolts below the sundeck belay. 100' 5.10+
Climb the last pitch of Fine Jade, up the brilliant calcite bolted face. 5.11
Rap Fine Jade (not Fine Shade)
P1- Start 30' left of Fine Jade on the Rectory. You will see a bolt about 20' off the ground, which is the crux of pitch one. Climb past the bolt to lower angle terrain. Build an anchor at the base of the double cracks directly in front of you. 5.11- 50'
P2- Climb up the FUN double cracks sticking primarily to the right crack. At about 25', step and reach right to gain the crack 5' right. Continue up this crack until the crack peters out at a sloping ledge with lots of face features. Place whatever gear you can, and move right across the face 10' until you gain the crack out right, again. Gain the ledge for a two bolt belay. Pitch 1 and 2 can be linked for a 200+ foot pitch. 5.10
P3- Continue around a small roof, then into 10-15 feet of thoughtful 10+ climbing. YOu will soon come to the bolted belay of Fine Jade, just below the sandy 5.9 pitch. You can either belay here for a short pitch, or continue will very manageable rope drag up the bolts below the sundeck belay. 100' 5.10+
Climb the last pitch of Fine Jade, up the brilliant calcite bolted face. 5.11
Rap Fine Jade (not Fine Shade)
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