Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches
FA: Glen Randall and Charlie Fowler-1982
Page Views: 8,105 total · 61/month
Shared By: Dana Prosser on Sep 22, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

In response to the Crack epidemic, this climb does not seem to get the traffic it deserves....

Crack wars has amazing hand cracks, fist cracks, and even a little OW thrown in to keep things interesting- so, grab that fat rack and head up the hill for a little fun!

P1-Jam thin hands crack, that slowly widens to hands and fists (4 star pitch!) to ledge on left with bolted anchor-5.10+ 90 ft.

P2-Fun fist/OW climbing leads to short traverse left and small roof, 15 more feet of wide climbing will lead to nice ledge where gear belay can be had- 5.10 70 ft.

P3-Continue up the fist/OW crack towards the obvious roof that looms above. Set up belay under roof with lone bolt and fist sized gear (#3 or 3 1/2 camalots works well here). 5.9+ 70 ft

P4-Jam out the featured fist-sized roof crack, and take a deep breath because it is not quite over yet..Some loose, heady climbing straight up (with short traverse L to corner) finally leads to short squeeze chimney, and the summit. -5.11a/b (crux pitch). Stewart Green's guidebook reports a 5.9 finger crack in R facing corner to summit- we did not see this crack, but perhaps it is a little further L than where we were???

This route is an enjoyable way to top out on the Rectory, and affords an awe-inspiring view of Honeymoon chimney (and beyond). Don't become another party waiting in line to do Fine Jade, when this route is just a few more steps down the trail...

Location

Route is found on the West face , about 80 ft. right of where the nuns meet the rectory. Look for white calcitite covered rock, with obvious crack. Climb starts on top of ledge about 20 ft above trail.

Protection

Rack: single camalots to #0.4, double #0.5-#2, triple #3, double # 3.5 and #4, single #5 and #6 Camalots, nuts, long draws, and rope. The only fixed anchor is at the top of the first pitch, so save some cams for the belays. Anchors are found to the climber's left of the last pitch, or rap Fine Jade.

Photos