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Shelter in Place (aka the rectumry)
5.13b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British PG13
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in The Rectory
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Book of Thunder T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Coyote Calling T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Crack Wars T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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East Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Empirical Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Find Shade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fine Jade T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hail Mary T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Jesus Saves T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Ministry T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Off To See The Allah T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Shelter in Place (aka the rectumry) T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Sinners and Infidels T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 38.6571, -109.3678 |
| FA: | John Ebers and Matt Reeser 2020 |
| Page Views: | 211 total · 32/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Reeser on Nov 29, 2025 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
This is a wild face climbing route that dances around on calcite edges, pinches and sandstone wacos to the left of the routes Crack Wars and Crack Whores. It was established in March of 2020 just a few days before most of the covid19 lockdown orders went into place. John free'd the 3rd pitch in November 2025, I did not. It has a lot of really fun climbing but maybe not quite 3 stars.
Pitch 1: Climb the right facing OW corner to a ledge and belay. 5.10, 20m.
Pitch 2: Tackle the face above with wild calcite holds and sandstone wacos. It's a mix of bolts and gear. Mostly good rock but take care in the middle section. You end the pitch at a two-bolt hanging belay anchor. 5.12c PG13, 40m.
Pitch 3: Traverse off the belay on razor sharp calcite edges and pinches, then climb the seam to a flake and two-bolt anchor. After the calcite traverse the rock quality deteriorates but the bolts keep it safe. 5.13b, 30m.
Pitch 4: The rectum pitch. Climb the obvious "splitter" to the summit. There is gear where the rock is good and no gear when the rock is bad. This pitch is awful. Build a belay at the lip or walk back a little way to find bolts. 5.11R, 30m.
DECENT: You can rap the route with a 70m from the top of pitch 3 by utilizing the anchor on crack whores. Other options include walking over to fine jade, doing two raps off the north side with two ropes, or using an 80m off the north side and doing 3 raps (you have to down climb a little on the first, and the last rap is a sketchy two pin anchor that is off to climbers right on a large ledge. You could also probably limit the risk by fixing one side of the rope and extending the pull side with your gear).
GEAR: You only need the #4 for the first pitch and maybe last pitch. Use the #1 and .5 for the P1 belay. On pitch 2, save the #1 and .75 for the horizontal at the top and also a .75 and optional black totem (or equivalent ) for the pods after the horizontal. After the traverse on p3 you will use a black totem and a few micros, and maybe a finger sized piece.
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