Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches
FA: Michael Dorsey, Kevin Cooney, 1995. FFA M. Dorsey, Tim Park, 2015.
Page Views: 569 total · 16/month
Shared By: Tim P on Aug 22, 2018
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Michael and Kevin first climbed this route with one point of aid. On their first ascent, they were struck by lightning, hence the name Book of Thunder. 20 years later, Michael brought me to fully free the upper pitches.

Someone has since added bolts to pitch 2 in the offwidth section. He would love it if somebody removed them.

P1. Climb a hand crack and chimney up to a two bolt anchor on your left - 5.10, 120 ft

P2. Climb the offwidth to a wide hands crack and belay on the right at a bolt anchor - 5.11c, 100 ft

P3. Climb wide hands to an old anchor with two baby angles. Make your way up the chimney and then step across to a thin hands crack on the wall to your left. Face climb up soft rock until you see a glue in bolt and belay at the ledge on your left - 5.11, 60 ft

P4. Climb out right and pass a couple of loose blocks and angle right until you gain the summit - 5.10, 60 ft

P4 variation. It's also possible to climb straight up in the left facing corner, but the gear is small and the rock is dirty and soft - 5.11+?

Location

This climbs the obvious right facing corner on the west face of The Rectory. Walk to the middle of the wall and look for a large streak of white calcite. The corner is capped by a prominent roof about 50 feet from the top.

Protection

Double rack from 0.3 to 4, and a single 5 and 6 Camalot. A couple extra 3's may also be preferable

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