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Book of Thunder
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British PG13
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in The Rectory
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Book of Thunder T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Coyote Calling T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Crack Wars T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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East Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Empirical Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Find Shade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fine Jade T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hail Mary T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Jesus Saves T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Ministry T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Off To See The Allah T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Shelter in Place (aka the rectumry) T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Sinners and Infidels T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 38.6571, -109.3678 |
| FA: | Michael Dorsey, Kevin Cooney, 1995. FFA M. Dorsey, Tim Park, 2015. |
| Page Views: | 1,109 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Tim P on Aug 22, 2018 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
Michael and Kevin first climbed this route with one point of aid. On their first ascent, they were struck by lightning, hence the name Book of Thunder. 20 years later, Michael brought me to fully free the upper pitches.
Someone has since added bolts to pitch 2 in the offwidth section. He would love it if somebody removed them.
P1. Climb a hand crack and chimney up to a two bolt anchor on your left - 5.10, 120 ft
P2. Climb the offwidth to a wide hands crack and belay on the right at a bolt anchor - 5.11c, 100 ft
P3. Climb wide hands to an old anchor with two baby angles. Make your way up the chimney and then step across to a thin hands crack on the wall to your left. Face climb up soft rock until you see a glue in bolt and belay at the ledge on your left - 5.11, 60 ft
P4. Climb out right and pass a couple of loose blocks and angle right until you gain the summit - 5.10, 60 ft
P4 variation. It's also possible to climb straight up in the left facing corner, but the gear is small and the rock is dirty and soft - 5.11+?
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