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Routes in The Rectory
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Book of Thunder T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Coyote Calling T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Crack Wars T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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East Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Empirical Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Find Shade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fine Jade T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hail Mary T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Jesus Saves T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Ministry T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Off To See The Allah T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Shelter in Place (aka the rectumry) T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Sinners and Infidels T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 6 pitches |
| GPS: | 38.6571, -109.3678 |
| FA: | Jay Smith, Jim Turner |
| Page Views: | 323 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | MauryB on Apr 28, 2023 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
A relatively newer route, Jay Smith continues to deliver!
P1, 5.11: Tips lock/layback in a R facing corner to good fingers, then a ledge rest. Continue up the corner system to pop out atop the leaning pillar that forms the "cave" for the start and a 2 bolt belay.
P2, 5.11-: Follow the line of bolts off the left side of the pillar (and a few cams) for 30 feet to a large ledge, you can belay here at a single bolt + gear, or a fairly straightforward link into P3.
P3, 5.11+: Launch into the gorgeous, splitter R facing corner above, pulling a few small rooflets and ending at a 2 bolt belay.
We rapped from here per the guidebook recommendation of deteriorating quality. A 70m doesn't quite reach from the top of P3 to the pillar, could extend with slings or a short rap off the single biner belay is easy, then an easy 30m rappel down the first pitch.
Experience from continuing higher would be welcome!
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