Anonymous Coward

[Hide Comment] It should be stated that on your first time up this route, you should definitely do the original finish. It can easily be dismissed due to the "5.7" grade but it is FAR more adventuresome and, I would argue, higher quality than the bolted finish. Description: belay from the base of the bolt ladder. Hand traverse the ledge with no feet and lots of exposure straight left and belay just around the corner. A #4 Camalot helps protect the traverse for the 2nd. The final pitch heads up the obvious feature around the corner. I won't give the beta for the finish, but it isn't as weird as many of the guidebook route descriptions make it out to be. Nov 1, 2001

Aaron Shupp

[Hide Comment] I also like the old finish.I was able to do the hand traverse and the corner to the top in one pitch. If you don't place much pro on the traverse (there isn't much to speak of anyway), the rope drag isn't bad at all. So, three pitches including the historical finish are possible with a 60m rope. Feb 5, 2002

Frank Stock

[Hide Comment] In the for what its worth catagory: With 2 - 200 foot ropes, you can get down in two raps. The first rap takes you to the nice belay just below the crux with 5 feet to spare, and the second rap puts you on the ground with perhaps 40 feet to spare. I wish I had paid more attention to the midpoint going up, because I think you probably could get off the top with 1 200 footer, but I wouldn't want to bet my life on it. Very nice stuff, fun summit. Agree with all of the above, the traverse pitches are a kick. Cheers, Frank Apr 8, 2002

Anonymous Coward

[Hide Comment] Most, if not all, 5.11a desert leaders will want the #4 Camalot for the pod on the first pitch. Most people will find this section to be the crux of the climb. Mar 31, 2003

Jakester

[Hide Comment] The #4 could go either way--if you place it on the first pitch, you can then clip it to an anchor above and grab it on the way down. The climb can be done in three pitches: from the ground to just below the "crux" 5.11 fingers, then to just below the bolts, then the top. Amazing route, tough and pumpy from the get-go. Nov 24, 2003

Max Schon

[Hide Comment] First of all, the bolted line at the end of Fine Jade is actually the proper finish to Coyote Calling. Second, that section is not .11a, more like .10, the 5.7 finish is WAY more fun. Third, a #4 Cam on the first pitch!? Fine Jade is one of the few towers you don't need such a big piece. May 13, 2004

Aimee McRae Bend

[Hide Comment] Wow, more like 5.10, for the bolted finish? Were we on the same route? I regularly climb 5.12 sport and I couldn't make the moves on the 5.11 final pitch. I took a whipper on the first bolt (coming close to the ledge) and then not wanting to hit the ledge, actually put my fingers through the second bolt- scary, but effective. You must be about 6 foot tall for that pitch to feel easy! In retrospect, I wish we would have done the traverse finish. Mar 23, 2006

Mike Phoenix   5.11a

[Hide Comment] What a wonderful route. IMHO the pod low on the 1st pitch was harder than the "crux" second pitch finger crack. I actually thought it was harder to follow the 1st than it was to lead the second. As for the last pitch, I thoroughly enjoyed the classic finish. Oct 17, 2006

Luke Malatesta La Sal, UT

[Hide Comment] Just did this route on Aug 12.....Amazing...nobody around, super quality and sustained for the most part. Aug 15, 2007

James Tucker   5.11a

[Hide Comment] We just climbed Fine Jade yesterday. I agree with Mike's comment about the first pitch being harder than the technical crux in some ways. The individual moves are probably easier, but it's a little awkward and it's right off the ground. Maybe I just wasn't warmed up yet. I also found the last pitch to be honest 5.11 sport, but in a tricky way, not a pumpy way. I'm tall and found it a little reachy, but my partner found a totally different way to do it so maybe I just didn't look hard enough. I'll try the original finish next time. Don't forget to bring enough small stuff. I would bring two or three of both blue and yellow TCU-sized cams for the thin crack parts. Also, don't worry about starting up the route with another party above you, as there is an entire second set of rap stations that will allow parties to pass one another easily. I recommend two 60s as the pitches are all longer than 100 feet. All the anchors on the route are fantastic, as is the rock quality. Hands down one of the best desert free routes I've done to date, and one I suspect I will return to do many times. Apr 29, 2008

Dean Hoffman

[Hide Comment] Possible to Rap with one 70M? Aug 24, 2008

Monty Golden, CO

[Hide Comment] 70m works fine, dont take a #4 camolot, take only one #3, four #.4's, three of everything from #.5 - #2, and one blue tcu. great route every pitch is stellar and definately do the face finish. Dec 2, 2008

Spencer Weiler Grand Junction

[Hide Comment] Best aesthetics of any desert route in the area. Being that I suck at crack, the 11a sport finish felt like a breeze compared to the 2nd pitch finger crack. There isn't any feet! At least 4 .5 camalots for that pitch, and possibly that many .4's as well. It felt like that was all I placed on that pitch. The 2nd two roofs on pitch 2 are much easier(and therefore felt more fun) then the first. Jul 14, 2010

Terence Almont, CO

[Hide Comment] Amazing is all I have to say. We hauled gear and camped on top. Sunrise was gorgeous. A must do for the grade. Oct 18, 2010

Tommey-James Boulder,Colorado   5.11b

[Hide Comment] Hey so I dont know how one could possibly say that any move on pitch one is more diffcult then the so called finger crack on pitch 2. The crack on pitch 2 is .5 size and is ring locks for me, I didnt find a solid finger lock (.4) anywhere on the buldge crux on the second pitch. Overall great route, well worth doing if you are in the area. Nov 24, 2010

Ryan Williams London (sort of)   5.11-

[Hide Comment] @ Tommy: I could be wrong but I thought .5 was perfect fingers for most people? I like .4's better but if .5's are ring locks for you then you have TINY fingers. I remember placing two .4's and getting solid locks, as well as a few .5 sections. That was the first finger crack I've ever lead and my first desert lead as well. We don't have many cracks like that here. My partner stopped at the first belay on P1 so I lead the hands/fingers part of P1 AND all of P2. Still easier than the OW move to the right on P1. Excellent climb. Jan 6, 2011

Kurt Prond Bozeman, MT

[Hide Comment] No, I think BD .4s are typically good finger locks, .5s are rattly fingers. Depends on the size of your fingers. I also thought pitch 1 was just as hard(more sustained) than the finger crack. We did this route an a very windy day in 2010. Made rappelling tough. At one point, we coiled our ropes and tossed them, and they blew straight up! Feb 23, 2012

JayJ	[Hide Comment] Great climb! OW, thin, and face cruxes. Feb 24, 2012

Kirsten KDog Edgewater, CO

[Hide Comment] Just my opinion, but I would highly advise NOT doing a double rap from the very top (down to the 2nd pitch anchors, if I remember correctly.) I've gotten my ropes stuck doing this rap 2 different times now. If I were to do it again I'd do a single rap down to the 3rd pitch anchors---where you belay for the 'sport pitch' going to the top---and then go from there. Kind of annoying since it's a short rap, but it might save you a lot of time and energy from having to climb back up to untangle your ropes! Oct 23, 2012

Jeff Scheuerell

[Hide Comment] Great route! This is what I wish I had brought (1)0C3,(2)1C3,(2)2C3,(3).4,(2).5,(3).75,(2)1,(2)2, (1)70m rope I did not place a single 3 or 4. Most descriptions lead one to believe that you will be fist jamming and doing OW moves. I did neither. I remember tight hands to perfect hands, reach past the wide, back to tight hands. Great .4 finger locks through the crux but the feet suck. I did the bolted finish. I found it thought provoking but very doable, but not easy. Mar 20, 2013

Ball Oakridge, OR   5.11a

[Hide Comment] Did this route sick (fighting Montezuma) but thankfully drew a short straw for the first pitch which I found to be 10-. Second was the crux 11a and did the bolted finish which was very balance-y. I did use the #4 in the pod, but it really wasn't necessary. Used KDog's beta for raps Oct 15, 2013

Furthermore

[Hide Comment] About 15-20 feet up pitch 3 is a loose dinner plate sized rock. It should be removed. There was a party behind us so we didn't want to mess with it. Also, our rope got stuck on that same rock while pulling our ropes on our descent. What a f*#K fest. For the descent, I would recommend doing a single rope rappel from the summit to the top of pitch 3 and then a double 60M rope rappel to the intermediate anchor on pitch 2 and then another double 60M rope rappel to the ground. I would highly recommend NOT rappelling west off of the rappel anchors at the top of pitch 2. The intermediate rappel anchor, which is required to get to the ground, is hard to get to since the rappel anchor is in an alcove. We needed to swing on free rappel to get to that ledge. If you do rappel that way, make sure you have nothing short of 2 60M ropes. From that hard to get to intermediate anchor, it is exactly 200 feet to the ground. Again, our ropes got stuck on various ledges and rocks via that west face descent. Oh, and that first pitch is most definitely not 10-. wtf??? Nov 2, 2013

Peter Lewis Bridgton, ME

[Hide Comment] Alex Honnold recently sent the route in 8:10, yeah, as in 8 minutes and 10 seconds. It often takes me that long to put on my shoes (I chalk my feet heavily, which takes longer LOL). Here's the link to the video: goalzero.com/alexhonnold/?u… Um............ Nov 5, 2013

Kevin Kent

[Hide Comment] After climbing this on beautiful day in November 2013 I returned to my pack I had left at the base to find a hole chewed in the top of it and through a sealed ziplock bag inside to some homemade granola bars. I had never heard of anyone having a problem with varmint chewing into packs in the desert, so I thought I'd leave a little warning for others. Nov 12, 2013

DennisL Bishop, CA

[Hide Comment] Super high-quality route. First 2 pitches are varied and steep on excellent rock. Do NOT do the original 5.7 traverse on the last pitch - once you go left around the corner, rope drag becomes a serious problem. The bolt ladder is fun, quick, and probably 11-. Apr 23, 2014

Brandon Gottung CO Western Slope

[Hide Comment] Rap beta with 80 m rope: From top, down to anchor on top of sugar pitch. From there, an 80 gets within 1-2 feet of the anchor on top 1st pitch, so it's best to stop at the anchor on top crux pitch. From there, an 80 just gets you to the intermediate on pitch 1 - knot the ends! Then to the ground. May 3, 2014

b Light Salt Lake City, Utah

[Hide Comment] My Rack (4) #.3-#.4 (2) #.5,#.75,#1 (3) #2 (2) #3 (1) #4 Single set of master cams (0,1,2) or C3 (0,1,2) Small nuts,10 Runners,70m Rope First bolt on Coyote Finish is a bit high. The traverse pitch is fun and cool to watch your partner turn the corner with Castleton in the background. Rap with a single 70. Favorite desert tower??? Possibly :) Aug 4, 2014

SummitSender

[Hide Comment] Gear List For Solid 5.11 Climber: BD Sizes Nuts BD #6-14 (1).1 (2).2 (2-3).3 (4-5).4 (2-3).5 (2-3).75 (3-4)#1 (2)#2 (1)3 NO #4 or larger (the one pod low is tight hands in the back and short enough to reach past the pod with good jams. My 5'6" girlfriend lead it no problem with out the #4) (7-10) Runners (Pitch 2 Needs A lot!) 5 Draws 1 70m Rope Sport Finish is Rad! Amazing Route! Oct 15, 2015

Alex Vidal Durango, CO

[Hide Comment] If you really want to enjoy Fine Jade, be sure to do it directly following Honeymoon Chimney. Oct 26, 2015

Derek Newman Salt Lake City, UT

[Hide Comment] This is certainly the best climb I've ever been on. The first and second pitches really feel equally difficult, but I'd argue that the first pitch is more physical, whereas the second pitch is more technical. In regards to gear, I'd recommend a #4 Camalot if 5.11 is at your limit. You can find #2 and #3 Camalots above and below the first pitch's wide section. The #4 also protects right off the first set of anchors, but again, there are placements above that other wide section. Gear goes everywhere on this beautiful route. As for the final pitch, we went up the bolted line, and didn't regret it. Nov 22, 2016

Adam Fleming AMGA Certified Rock Guide,…

[Hide Comment] The bolt on p1 has no hanger. You could rig a nut on it, but there's stellar pro right by it. The "OW" on p1 is just a pod where you reach up into thin hands. Maybe it's OW if you're really short (5 foot or so). No need to bring the #4 for this pitch or the traverse pitch. 2 double 70m raps are perfect. Skip the party ledge with the two anchors and head to the much smaller ledge with three bolts (2 rap hangers, 1 standard hanger). There is potential for your ropes to get eaten by the finger crack when you pull them. May 20, 2017

Will Sharp   5.11a

[Hide Comment] Great route! Wish it was longer! Leave the nuts, leave the #4 neither are needed. First pitch seemed like the hardest climbing. Climbed in 3 pitches doing the 5.11 sport finish. 2 Double rope raps to the ground with 70m. (min) Nov 24, 2018

Branty Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] This is my favorite desert climb I've ever done. Great temps in mid-December, and plenty of sun to finish the route. I thought the first pitch wide part was harder than the second pitch finger crack! Despite this, my partner did not place a #4 on pitch 1. (I sewed pitch 2 right up.) Watch your rope drag on the third roof of pitch 2! I had to downclimb and remove the ~.75 or so pieces in order to comfortably belay my partner up. The pieces suck the rope deep into the crack.... Dec 11, 2018

Alex Zucca Salt Lake City, UT   5.10+

[Hide Comment] This is 5.11 but protects very well, and the cruxes are only 10-15 feet. No scary/run-out sections like other desert multipitches. Don't let the grade scare you, get on it! Apr 7, 2019

stev spooner Lander   5.11a

[Hide Comment] Sooooo Sick. Stack 3 clean, outstanding, variable pitches from the creek on top of eachother, and thats the business. Pull roof after roof. Even the sandy 4th pitch is good. Do the OG finish, It's great and equally scary for the 2nd. Nov 21, 2019

Michael Azevedo KY

[Hide Comment] Double rack (.3-2), x1 (.1, .2, 3), 3x (.4) is plenty. No nuts. Face pitch is excellent. As a reference, I'm no crack whisperer, fell at the first pitch crux, fell at the bulge. Nov 24, 2020

Anna Janecek Seattle

[Hide Comment] The left bolt on the last anchor before the top out (the belay for the sport pitch) is entirely free spinning- it is easy to back this bolt up with a 2 cam and we felt safe rappelling from a downward direction, but needs replacing eventually. Back up this belay! Wish we could come back and replace it. Nov 15, 2021

Ryan Justen St. Paul, MN

[Hide Comment] Amazing route! Leading this was pushing my comfort zone and I was able to really sew it up (gear every ~2-3 ft through both cruxes) with the following BD rack 1x 0.2 3x 0.3 4x 0.4 4x 0.5 2x 0.75 2x 1 2x 2 1x 3 1x 4 (I was thankful to have this and fell on it) Also a gold link cam (~0.75-2 in BD) was placed once in #2 range and once in 0.75 range.... Certainly less cams will work for most climbers, but this is near the max you'll need Apr 5, 2022

Handrea Hummus Czech

[Hide Comment] ** If you are planning on climbing this route on the weekend of NOV 19-20th, there is an international commercial shoot going on the whole day on route the 19th if weather is clear for the weekend. You should probably alter your route plans just a heads up! Nov 7, 2022

Ethan Berkeland Fairbanks, AK

[Hide Comment] I walked up to climb this beautiful route and was shutdown by an over-the-top production crew who had monopolized the route for the entire day (a Saturday) to shoot an advertisement. I wonder how much I would have to pay the Bureau of Land Management to have the route to myself just like they did? I really think it’s a shame we allow a corporation (Prudential Insurance) to use a resource like this for their own gain. The BLM mission statement is “ to sustain the health, diversity, and productivity of public lands for the use and enjoyment of present and future generations.” But alas, BLM is more concerned about handing out tickets to people sleeping in cars then they are preserving any semblance of serving the public. Your public lands are only yours as long as there isn’t money to be made on them. Maybe climbers need to think about how we treat climbs as a resource. Would we let corporations extract oil from public lands for free? No? Then why would we let them use our climbing areas as a studio? Nov 19, 2022

Sam Elander Salt Lake City, UT

[Hide Comment] Traversing left for the last pitch is exciting and totally the way to go. Once in the final corner, instead of going straight up, (a little reachy and would be slightly tricky to onsight) I traversed out the big undercling roof. Super fun! The finger cracks were all perfect for me and the crux was VERY managable with that huge foot definitely helping. Apr 29, 2023

Aidan O'Connor

[Hide Comment] Bolts on summit were missing hangers as of 5/4/23. Built a gear belay. If doing the 11 sport variation that anchor is intact as well as for the first rap. May 16, 2023

Brad Burns Story, WY   5.11a

[Hide Comment] youtu.be/Xxci-5Psdks Sep 28, 2023

Daniel Heins Seattle

[Hide Comment] 70m gets you down fine. I was content with the 4, I'm sure its use could've been avoided but I happily placed it a few times. I found a set of smaller (non-micro) wires to be good for P3, and extra helpful for making an anchor with the hangerless bolts on the original finish. Found the original finish to be worthwhile, nice to see the natural line up and enjoyed the finishing moves. Going again I'd personally probably do .2, 2x.3, 3x.4-1, 2x2-3, 1x4, small set of wires, but obviously there's varied feelings on that but it's not like the approach or style of climbing really punishes you for having a couple extra cams. Nov 27, 2023

Dylan Fox Albuquerque, NM

[Hide Comment] At least with my 70 meter rope, you can get off in 3 single rope rappels. To do this, rap from the top of the sport pitch to the start of the 5.9 section (going past an intermediate rap anchor). Another comment mentions ropes getting stuck on this rap, but we didn’t personally experience that, and most of the spots where it would be likely to get stuck are on the 5.9 so you could probably re-lead to get the rope unstuck if necessary. Then to the higher of the two p1 anchors. Then down to the top of the 5.2 starting block, then down solo the block. This just barely reaches the ground on the starting block rap. This rap beta seems similar to someone else’s beta for rapping on an 80, so maybe my 70 is just really long, probably want to be careful and knot your ropes if trying this. There are no bolted anchors on the big ledge where the 5.11 sport pitch starts, but you can sling one of the two huge boulders for an anchor, or belay a little lower at a bolt anchor. The 5.11 sport pitch seemed like low 5.11 sport climbing, 3 bolts in maybe 40 feet. The bolt spacing felt a bit spicy given the potentially of a fall before bolt 1 taking you off the edge, and falls near bolt two maybe putting you back on the ledge. Also seemed like the moves are a bit height dependent. Im 5’10”, might be a bit harder if your shorter to make the move near the second bolt. Nov 16, 2024