PRINT: Rock Climb Hollowpoint, Castle Valley

Hollowpoint

5.11d, Trad, 140 ft (42 m),

Avg: 3 from 3 votes
FA: Jay Smith and Paul Teare
Utah > Southeast Utah > Grand County > Castle Valley > Castleton Tower

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas. Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.

Access Issue: Registration required for camping starting 01 Oct 2010. Details

Utah Open Lands utahopenlands.org owns the primitive area historically used by climbers camping near Castleton Tower.

Beginning October 1, 2010, Utah Open Lands will require free registration to camp in the primitive camping area. Registration will be accomplished at the Utah Open Lands website. utahopenlands.org

Description

A lot of climbing on this excellent pitch which will improve once it sees enough ascents to clean up some of the choss. Note the star rating is compared to other Castleton 1 pitch routes.

Starts just left of Little White Lieback and right of Stardust Cowboy below a small roof about 20' off the ground above which is a long corner capped by a much bigger roof.

Has a technical crux (00/gray TCU comes in handy) near the ground followed by sustained finger cracks which become a hand crack about 20' below the second roof. Traverse left at the 2nd roof (3.5 Friend), pulling around its end into a hanging handcrack. Follow this to a tricky pod with a rattly finger crack in the back. Ten feet later you finally hit easier climbing, slabs which take you to a rappel station on Stardust Cowboy.

Continue up Stardust Cowboy or rappel to the ground. Note a single 70M rope is not long enough for this rappel.

Protection

1 ea #1-#7 RockTCU 3ea .4, 2ea .5, 3ea .75Friend 3ea #1, 2 ea 1.5, 2ea #2, 2ea # 2.5, 1 #3, 1 #3.5A few quickdraws, 2-4 long slings

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All the routes on the south face of Castleton Tower - Route list in comments

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Anonymous Coward

this is a jay smith route. we did it in the late 90s the same week iwas privledgedenoughto have gone with him and a guy named paul...tearre or something, up burning within about sixdays earlier. Nov 26, 2005