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Kanaranzi Buttress (East Face) Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Kanaranzi Buttress (East Face)

	Crack, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Crazy Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Guillotine, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Kanaranzi Right TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Purgatory T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Stairway to Heaven TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Stairway To Hell TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c

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GPS:	43.69643, -96.18609 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Description

The east face of the Kanaranzi Buttress contains several high quality climbs ranging from 5.7 to 5.11. Including the classic lead Crazy Crack (5.7), and the classic top rope routes Kanaranzi Right (5.9+), and Purgatory (5.11a). The bottom of this area is protected from the sun, although the top halves of the climbs do see sun throughout most of the day. The top of the cliff sees plenty of sun as well, so the sunscreen might come in handy while setting up top ropes. The placements tend to be a bit spread out in this area, so bring plenty of webbing for the top rope setup.

Getting There

From the parking lot off Rock County Highway 8 take the main paved pedestrian/bike path. One approach is to take the trail the spurs off at the outhouse. Follow this trail to the base of the cliff and continue to the right for about 100 yards to the base of Kanaranzi Buttress (South Face) and continue right another 25 feet to the face of this buttress. Another alternative it to take the next trail after the outhouse, this cuts a direct line to the East Face of the Kanaranzi Buttress.

Top Access/Descent: The easiest access to the top is a third class chimney just left (south) of Triple Chockstone at the south end of Kanaranzi Buttress (South Face).

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Kanaranzi Buttress (East Face)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 36 ● Crazy Crack Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 12 ● The Crack Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 6 ● The Guillotine TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 14 ● Kanaranzi Right TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 11 ● Purgatory Trad, TR