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Routes in Station 13

East Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
East Chimney Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Highly Suspicious T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Spooky, station 13 SE arete T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Superstition T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Herb and Jan Conn, July 1949
Page Views: 108 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tyson S Arp on Apr 11, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route

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Ascend the Chimney on the east face and set a belay by slinging the sub-summit to the right. This pitch is easier and less awkward than it appears from the ground. Make sure your anchor is bomber since the next pitch is committing and the protection tricky.

For the second pitch, step across the top of the chimney and then move around to the right into the "Conn Cavity". Follow this awkward groove to the top. Protection can found just after the step across the chimney and in the Conn Cavity itself if you're not too scared to stop and place it!


If you can find Station Thirteen, locating this route will be easy as it is the most obvious line on the eastern side (it faces the other Cathedral Spires).

Descent from the top requires two ropes.


A standard rack will suffice. The first pitch takes a variety of sizes, while small gear will be most useful on the second pitch.


5.7 PG13
5.7 PG13
I did this route last year with a friend. Didn't use any gear larger than a number 3 Camalot. A Number 4 wouldn't have been bad near the top of P1. We didn't any beta on this route at the time, and unaware I could sling some things higher, I foolishly set up an anchor in the top of the chimney just before it opens up to the lower summit. It was super bomber, and super awkward. P2 is awesome, with some exposure to it. In the "conn cavity," you can fit some gear in a slot between the crystals here, maybe a .5 camalot. My second fell here, but all was well as the hardware at the summit is good.

Side note: An old wild country rock was left at the top of the lower summit somewhere, consider it booty.

Cheers Jul 26, 2013
Tyson S Arp