Avg: 3.2 from 18 votes
|Type:||Trad, 160 ft|
|FA:||Ron the man Yahne|
|Page Views:||1,415 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||CURT LOVE on Jul 24, 2002|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty|
This route starts to the left of the conn route. It is on the north east face of the spire, the "uphill side any way". A bolt is visable from the from the ground at about 15 feet up, It is a burly homemade hanger, I belive that Ron placed for this bolt and the others, two or so.After the first bolt you climb a big easy crack that takes you to a little face section just up and left, with a bolt and some gear. From here the main goal is to get to the corner rt facing and climb the crack in back of it. This corner is then capped by a little roof that you turn on the right you need to place good gear here. I belive this is where you want the 8-11 hexes and long slings. Turning the roof is the crux, I think, and is a little run out once you turn it.(besides a big horn that is not very good) The climbing is easy realative to what you have just done though. This climb is really good, but does not get done often these days. Lets get out and do this thing people!
This route is really good. But one should place good gear as always when ever possible. Sometimes that is straight forward sometimes not. I think doing this route requires some old school gear like hexes, for they place better sometimes in big cracks that are irregular. I lead it with both and feel the passive pro was better. So here it is take some long slings and a nice spread of med to big gear throw in some nuts and tie in.Two rope rap