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Routes in Station 13

East Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
East Chimney Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Highly Suspicious T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Spooky, station 13 SE arete T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Superstition T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mark and Beverly Powell
Page Views: 2,759 total, 14/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Start at the base of the easy chimney on the east face. Climb to the top of the chimney and sink in a belay. Then look for a bolt on the face just to the left of the chimney. Traverse over and climb to the top on face holds. (This climb could probably be done as just one pitch).

Protection

Standard Rack for first pitch. One bolt on the second pitch. Fixed anchors on top.
Nathan Stegenga
Spokane, WA
 
Nathan Stegenga   Spokane, WA
 
Easily done in one pitch, as long as you sling everything long (60cm and some 120cm slings) Right after the step across move, you can place a perfect yellow mastercam high and right before traversing left out and up towards the bolt - made me feel a lot more secure high above my gear in the chimney. After the bolt you can pretty much cruise to the finish. Jun 18, 2017
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.6
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.6
Pretty easy to do in one pitch with slings on your protection to reduce rope drag. That step across at the top is pretty exciting with your gear below you in the chimney. Thankfully, the move is easier than it looks, and the one bolt on the upper face is perfectly placed. Definitely requires two ropes to rappel from the top -- even a 70M rope comes up about 15 feet short of the ground by itself. Great climb with awesome views from the summit. Sep 5, 2011
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
 
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
 
Double ropes work really well here to minimize drag, especially if done as one pitch.

Amazing spire. Jun 28, 2011
joelhagan Hagan
Rapid City, SD
 
joelhagan Hagan   Rapid City, SD
 
There is one bolt on the second pitch, but I believe you can sling a horn and possibly place a nut after the bolt. This route could be done in one pitch, but because of the airy traverse left it may be safer to do it as two pitches to get over the mental crux. Mar 28, 2007
John Klooster
Arvada, CO
  5.7
John Klooster   Arvada, CO
  5.7
This can be done as one pitch, if long runners are not used rope drag is horrid. I remember pulling slack to make the final moves to the summit. Beautiful summit, there was a person playing a reed flute in the picket fence area the day we did this route giving us a surreal needles experience. Jan 17, 2005