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Elevation: 4,535 ft 1,382 m
GPS: 38.6242, -109.59939
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 581,232 total · 2,165/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on May 12, 2002 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Closures and Restrictions DetailsDrop down

Arches National Park Climbing Rules Suggest change

Arches National Park rangers would like all climbers to be familiar with the special rules in the park. Please visit the NPS website before your trip!

nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/…

Description Suggest change

Arches National Park is an amazing place to climb. The area has everything - serious multipitch towers, easy one pitch towers, and hard cracks on long buttresses. Best of all, routes in Arches are usually only a few hundred feet from the road so the approaches are casual.

Most of the routes here are on Entrada sandstone, which is much softer than the Wingate found at Indian Creek. It often fractures vertically so there are a lot of splitters, but they are much sandier than in other parts of the desert. On aid routes, avoid nailing whenever possible as the incredibly soft stone doesn't hold up well to abuse.

This area sees a lot of tourists, and since most of the routes are very near the road climbers must maintain as low a profile as possible. As always in the desert, approach climbs via washes to avoid trampling cryptobiotic soil. Some areas are closed seasonally for nesting, so check in at the visitors center before climbing. Finally, this is a national park, so be prepared for the entrance fee.

Water is available at the visitors center. Moab is only a few miles south, and there is lots of camping on BLM land along River Road or near Moab. There is a national park campground in Arches, but I've never stayed there so I can't vouch for it.

Getting There

Suggest change
From Moab, drive north along US 191 to the turn off for Arches National Park. Arches is only a few miles out of town. All climbs are accessed from this entrance - pick up a map at the visitors center. The map has most of the formations marked on it.

93 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Arches National Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 249
Standard (West Fins)
Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c C2+
 59
Zenyatta Entrada
Aid 6 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 151
West Chimney
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 99
Northeast Chimney
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0
 71
Standard Route
Trad, Aid
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 720
West Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 47
The Doil
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
 24
Virgin Wool
Trad, Aid 5 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 11
Zippy Zebra
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b C1
 71
Regular Route
Trad, Aid
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 54
Heart of the Desert
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 146
Right Chimney
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 70
West Face
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1
 17
Be There or Be Talked About
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1-2
 72
West Face
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Standard (West Fins) Elephant Butte
 249
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad
Zenyatta Entrada Tower of Babel
 59
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c C2+ Aid 6 pitches
West Chimney Bullwinkle Tower
 151
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Northeast Chimney Off Balanced Rock
 99
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 2 pitches
Standard Route Pickle
 71
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0 Trad, Aid
West Crack Owl Rock
 720
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Doil 100-yard Wall
 47
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Virgin Wool Sheep Rock
 24
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 Trad, Aid 5 pitches
Zippy Zebra Zippy Zebra Wall
 11
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Regular Route Devil's Golf Ball (AK…
 71
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 Trad, Aid
Heart of the Desert Park Avenue > East > NE crag
 54
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Right Chimney Three Penguins
 146
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
West Face Dark Angel
 70
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 2 pitches
Be There or Be Talked About Three Gossips
 17
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
West Face Three Gossips
 72
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1-2 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Arches National Park »

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