Elevation: 4,535 ft
GPS: 38.624, -109.599 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 564,584 total · 2,277/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on May 12, 2002 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Closures and Restrictions Details

Arches National Park Climbing Rules

Arches National Park rangers would like all climbers to be familiar with the special rules in the park. Please visit the NPS website before your trip!

nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/…

Description

Arches National Park is an amazing place to climb. The area has everything - serious multipitch towers, easy one pitch towers, and hard cracks on long buttresses. Best of all, routes in Arches are usually only a few hundred feet from the road so the approaches are casual.

Most of the routes here are on Entrada sandstone, which is much softer than the Wingate found at Indian Creek. It often fractures vertically so there are a lot of splitters, but they are much sandier than in other parts of the desert. On aid routes, avoid nailing whenever possible as the incredibly soft stone doesn't hold up well to abuse.

This area sees a lot of tourists, and since most of the routes are very near the road climbers must maintain as low a profile as possible. As always in the desert, approach climbs via washes to avoid trampling cryptobiotic soil. Some areas are closed seasonally for nesting, so check in at the visitors center before climbing. Finally, this is a national park, so be prepared for the entrance fee.

Water is available at the visitors center. Moab is only a few miles south, and there is lots of camping on BLM land along River Road or near Moab. There is a national park campground in Arches, but I've never stayed there so I can't vouch for it.

Getting There

From Moab, drive north along US 191 to the turn off for Arches National Park. Arches is only a few miles out of town. All climbs are accessed from this entrance - pick up a map at the visitors center. The map has most of the formations marked on it.

87 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Arches National Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 213
Standard (West Fins)
Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c C2+
 54
Zenyatta Entrada
Aid 6 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 137
West Chimney
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 92
Northeast Chimney
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0
 65
Standard Route
Trad, Aid
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 657
West Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 40
The Doil
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
 22
Virgin Wool
Trad, Aid 5 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 34
Chinese Eyes
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
Zippy Zebra
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b C1
 62
Regular Route
Trad, Aid
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 52
Heart of the Desert
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 135
Right Chimney
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 67
West Face
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1-2
 67
West Face
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Standard (West Fins) Elephant Butte
 213
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad
Zenyatta Entrada Tower of Babel
 54
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c C2+ Aid 6 pitches
West Chimney Bullwinkle Tower
 137
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Northeast Chimney Off Balanced Rock
 92
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 2 pitches
Standard Route Pickle
 65
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0 Trad, Aid
West Crack Owl Rock
 657
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Doil 100-yard Wall
 40
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Virgin Wool Sheep Rock
 22
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 Trad, Aid 5 pitches
Chinese Eyes Great Wall
 34
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Zippy Zebra Zippy Zebra Wall
 10
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Regular Route Devil's Golf Ball
 62
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 Trad, Aid
Heart of the Desert Park Avenue
 52
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Right Chimney Three Penguins
 135
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
West Face Dark Angel
 67
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 2 pitches
West Face Three Gossips
 67
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1-2 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Arches National Park »

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