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Areas in Blue Mounds State Park (Luverne)

Bouldering @ Blue Mounds 0 / 0 / 0 / 97 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 97
Mini Fortress Area 13 / 0 / 26 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 28
Mound Creek Trail Outcrop 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
North Quarry Area 22 / 0 / 53 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 55
Prairie Walls Area 27 / 0 / 66 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 67
Receding Ramparts Area 8 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
South Quarry Area 15 / 0 / 37 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 42
Elevation: 1,090 ft
GPS: 43.698, -96.175 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 78,118 total, 550/month
Shared By: Glenn Burns on Apr 5, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE
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BLUE MOUNDS STATE PARK AT LUVERNE, MN

Blue Mounds State Park is located in the southwest corner of Minnesota. Located approximately 4 miles from the town of Luverne, BMSP offers rock climbing on quartzite similar to the rocks at Devils Lake, WI. The quartzite cliffs rise approximately 100 feet from the prairie and offer 50-60 foot climbs of various difficulty from 5.4 to 5.12. The area is primarily a traditional climbing crag, but top roping is possible with the proper gear. There are also number of bouldering problems. There are no bolted routes.

Getting There

From the town of Luverne, go north 4 miles on Minnesota Hwy. 75. Turn east on County Road 20 and go 1 mile to park entrance.

The most commonly used climbing parking lot is off Rock County 8. From Luverne take 75 north about 1 mile out of town (or from the state park ranger office take 75 south) and take a right on Rock County 8 . Continue on Rock County 8 for about a mile maybe less. As the road forks to the right there is a small parking lot on the left, park here. The majority of the approach trails are off the paved bike/pedestrian path. This bike/pedestrian path can also be reach from the camp grounds and you can approach the cliff from the north rather than the south.

300 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Blue Mounds State Park (Luverne)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3 6A
Sweat and Slide
Boulder
V4 6B
Lip Sync
Boulder
V5 6C
Perseus
Boulder
V6 7A
Pieta
Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ivy Right
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crazy Crack
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kanaranzi Corner
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jasper's Dihedral
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
X
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kanaranzi Right
TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mean Streak
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Balcony Center
TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Warrior's Waltz
TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Purgatory
Trad, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
The Layback
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sweat and Slide Bouldering @ Blue… > Bur Oak Trail > Boulder Area 2 V3 6A Boulder
Lip Sync Bouldering @ Blue… > E Quarry Boulder V4 6B Boulder
Perseus Bouldering @ Blue… > Quarry Boulder V5 6C Boulder
Pieta Bouldering @ Blue… > Quarry Boulder V6 7A Boulder
Ivy Right Prairie Walls Area > 5. Saturday Buttress 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Crazy Crack N Quarry Area > Kanaranzi Buttress (E Face) 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Kanaranzi Corner N Quarry Area > Kanaranzi Buttress (S Face) 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Jasper's Dihedral Prairie Walls Area > 5. Saturday Buttress 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
X Prairie Walls Area > 9. Chimney Buttress 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Kanaranzi Right N Quarry Area > Kanaranzi Buttress (E Face) 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a TR
Mean Streak Prairie Walls Area > 6. Midnight Buttress 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Balcony Center Prairie Walls Area > 7. Sunday Buttress 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TR
Warrior's Waltz Prairie Walls Area > 7. Sunday Buttress 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c TR
Purgatory N Quarry Area > Kanaranzi Buttress (E Face) 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
The Layback N Quarry Area > Kanaranzi Buttress (S Face) 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c TR
More Classic Climbs in Blue Mounds State Park (Luverne) »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
May have lost a set of keys at BM yesterday. Ford key with a turtle keychain. Will providenbeer incentive for their return! Sep 17, 2017
Moved to Wahpeton, ND from Colorado. Looking for some people to climb with in this great flat land. Will provide beer and/or childish humor.

Also, I don't know if Settlers of Catan is part of the climbing culture up here just yet... but it should be. Sep 10, 2016
BlakeaDeppe
Sioux Falls, SD
BlakeaDeppe   Sioux Falls, SD
Just moved to Sioux Falls and looking for some people to climb/boulder with. I am thinking about heading to the mounds tomorrow and possibly also on Thursday. I would love to have some company! Oct 28, 2014
Jon Marek
Sioux Falls, SD
Jon Marek   Sioux Falls, SD
Only after moving away and climbing at numerous quartzite crags did I realize just how AMAZING the rock is in Blue Mounds. The entire length of cliff-line in BMSP is without question the most consistently high quality quartzite I have ever climbed! Enjoy this place, it is very special. Jun 11, 2013
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
The new guide has been out for several months. It's on Mike's website or on Amazon.

mfarris.net/ Sep 18, 2012
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
trisgo,
Do you mean the buttresses of Prairie Walls? If so check out the pic below, otherwise the Minnesota/Wisconsin Falcon guide by Mike Farris is the best for locating all of the specific areas of BM. He does have a new edition coming out "soon".

Sep 17, 2012
trisgo
Omaha, NE (at the moment)
trisgo   Omaha, NE (at the moment)
Can anyone tell me where to get a map that lables where the different buttresses are? There's a nice one for Palisades, but I can't find anything for Blue Mounds. Sep 17, 2012
Jon Marek
Sioux Falls, SD
Jon Marek   Sioux Falls, SD
Great bouldering guide for the area can be found here.

A Field Guide to Minnesota Bouldering Apr 8, 2012
We're locals and love going out to the park; family has fun climbing the rocks that go into the campground area; looking for someone with more experience to show us what we need and teach us the right way to do things; once a year Blue Mound has started to have a clinic, but wish they would do more! Mar 6, 2011
I agree with Doug about the long webbing! It is very useful for building anchors at Blue Mounds since you'll often have to go far back from the cliff edge for placements. Bring plenty if you want to make things easier on yourself or create multiple anchors. Feb 19, 2011
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
For a day of top-roping at BM I usually bring two or three pieces of 30 to 50 foot webbing, single set of stoppers, set of cams, and medium to large hexes. Some people like using tri-cams at BM but I think they're more hassle than it's worth (I have bootied a few though).
Many of the popular areas don't have much for natural pro. There's a few trees and boulders you can sling but they often sit far back from the cliff edge thus the need for long webbing.
Some of the routes require thought-provoking gear placements for top-rope setups. Often there's regulars there that can tell you exactly what to use for specific routes. Don't be afraid to ask. Jan 27, 2011
What size pro should I bring if I'm going to be toproping, is there any natural protection? Jan 26, 2011
Sam Daley
Minneapolis, Minnesota
Sam Daley   Minneapolis, Minnesota
I want to thank everyone who has been putting boulder problems online, it inspires me to continue returning to Blue Mounds! My friend Jak and I just had a great visit. We are going to be adding a few problems that we did not find online. If you have done these before and have any information on names/grades/FAs dont hesitate to contact either of us. Also if these problems are already up somewhere else let us know so we can mitigate confusion. Aug 22, 2010
In June 2006, my buddy Sam and I were heading on back from climbing in the Black Hills. Halfway home (at the time IA), we pulled into Luverne to stave off the driving crazies. We were not looking to do much climbing in the Quarries, but we did have a crash pad. To our surprise, there were some fun boulder problems available. We spent a half day exploring the area and climbing. When we came home, we checked the guidebook and rockclimbing.com. To our surprise, there was hardly anything about the boulders in this area. So, we posted some pictures and some fun names (e.g., Jackalope and Urban Sasquatch... named for the intoxicated run of a naked climber out of their tent). We did not want to post rating, but they were all manageable and under V6. It's great to see that mountain project is posting these climbs!!! If you are on your way west on 94, it's worth a stop for a quick burn. Be careful of the cactus for 2 reasons: (a) they are local and you are not (b) they hurt like hell when you are throwing for what you think is the top... and get a fist full of fire. May 19, 2010
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
I think it's great that people are adding bouldering problems to the Blue Mounds database. There's some quality stuff to be found in the park.
That said if you're going to take the time to add them please give good directions and a description to these problems (ex. Na-Cho Ordinary Nachos). Let see some pics of these problems too!

Keep it at guys, there's definitely some gems out there. May 6, 2010
Paul Getzke
Bloomington, mn
Paul Getzke   Bloomington, mn
I spent most of the last week bouldering in western Minnesota. Since there is no detailed mention of bouldering at Blue Mounds, I just wanted to report that there is bouldering and it's not too bad either. It starts in the woods below the interpretive center and goes all the way to the old quarry. There are a number of blocks, some big and some not so big. Two big ones are below the interpretive center in the woods. Take the Burr Oak Trail below the center and you will find them down the hill. There are several more smaller blocks along the trail heading towards the old quarry. Once you get to the quarry, check out the big boulder there. It is the future home of some very hard potential projects. One more boulder is downhill from there. Have fun! Sep 24, 2009
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
BM is a good place for headpointing. I suggest Cactus Capers, No Go Crack, The Layback, Death Scream, and Purgatory for some "leadable" hard climbs. Dec 20, 2006
do any of the harder less well protected lines see leads here? Dec 18, 2006
Ian Harmon
Minneapolis, MN
Ian Harmon   Minneapolis, MN
comment added to the "Getting There" description. Jun 6, 2006

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