Sylvan Lake Climbing

Sylvan Lake is a beautiful lake in the heart of the Hills. Sylvan Lake was formed when Sunday Gulch was damned up. It is one of the many man made lakes in the Hills. It is nestled in Custer State Park and it is part of the needles highway. Sylvan Lake is the beginning of trail #9 which goes to Black Elk Peak. (7,242 ft) Sylvan lake has a rich history in climbing. Fritz Wiessner was one of the first recorded people to climb here. Local indigenous had made it to the top of inner outlet likely due to a wooden ladder being found by Fritz. The area has some classic trad, sport and mixed routes. Expect less crowds early mornings and later in the evenings. Both allow the Hot South Dakota sun to cool down! Sylvan Lake is home to a few other micro crag areas. The most popular is Middle Earth. This area boosts a number of old and new classics. Sunday Gulch holds a few hidden gems and I consider Photographers Peak and its neighbors part of Sylvan Lake.

BOULDERING

What many don't know is all the bouldering that can be done around the Sylvan Lake Area. This area not only has some of the hardest problems as of now but has a history like the Gill Boulder first climbed by the man himself John Gill. John Gill has multiple problems in the Black Hills. The Campground boulder is his most climbed. He put up many variations on it. He was working a project that would later become, "Gill and I " V9. It was finally sent in 2000 by Colorado boulderer Ben Scott.  Homestar (V11) was first done by Chuck Fryberger. The hardman route is King of Town first ascent by Matt Tschol v12/13. Originally Matt graded this climb V14 to evoke climbers to give it a try. It has seen a few repeats by locals.