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Routes in Valley Massif

Been Hair Done That T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Best Man T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bill Steal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bittersweet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Joke, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Falcon's Lair T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hair of the Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hammer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hooker T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Internal Combustion T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
King of Coney Island T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Wrench T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Powder Puff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Quits T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Screw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slut, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Social Security Ran Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Soft Touch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sunny Day T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Surprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tail Spin T V9 7C
Tea Grinder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tool Or Die T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zipper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Phil Fowler, Jerry Sublett, c. 1970
Page Views: 2,157 total, 17/month
Shared By: Gary Schmidt on Jun 12, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Powder Puff is as great a 5.4 as you will find anywhere. It is a trad climb requiring some fist-size cams.

Start inside the left side of the slot, and climb up using some fun chimney moves to good holds (unprotected). Move a bit left and gain an excellent, uniform, hand crack and follow that to a ledge. Look a bit left and you will see an amazing, big, chickenhead. This is technically the beginning of second pitch called Corbet Exit. Strange as it, basically only involved one 5.5 mantel move (unprotected) on the chickenhead. If this is too much for you, it is easy to traverse to a bit farther to the right.

Walk off as per Sunny Day or head left and set up a top rope anchor with the chain anchors on the route to the left, Bittersweet (hard 9).

Location

to be filled in

Protection

This requires some fist-sized cams.
tkessel Kessel
Windsor,CO
  5.4
tkessel Kessel   Windsor,CO
  5.4
Cool little route, eats pro, did the ramp to get up to the crack. Jul 9, 2017
Charles Danforth
L'ville, CO
 
Charles Danforth   L'ville, CO
 
Avoid the chimney start and follow the thin right-leaning ramp/hand traverse to the start of the crack. Pro is thin, but a couple small cams provide more protection than the unprotected chimney start. Nice climb with a nice crack. Nov 11, 2007
Tyson S Arp  
 
Definitely do the Corbel Exit if you can talk yourself into it! It's only one move, but boy is it fun.
If you're chicken like me, a carefully laid runner can be tied around the corbel for some protection. There is a chance this would hold a fall, but mostly it just gives you a little peace of mind, since your last piece of pro will be well below you by the time you get to the corbel. Realistically, the corbel sits above a large enough ledge that if you feel like you're not going to make it you can just hop back down to the ledge and give it another try. Jun 15, 2007