Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Phil Fowler, Jerry Sublett, c. 1970
Page Views: 2,384 total · 16/month
Shared By: Gary Schmidt on Jun 12, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Powder Puff is as great a 5.4 as you will find anywhere. It is a trad climb requiring some fist-size cams.

Start inside the left side of the slot, and climb up using some fun chimney moves to good holds (unprotected). Move a bit left and gain an excellent, uniform, hand crack and follow that to a ledge. Look a bit left and you will see an amazing, big, chickenhead. This is technically the beginning of second pitch called Corbet Exit. Strange as it, basically only involved one 5.5 mantel move (unprotected) on the chickenhead. If this is too much for you, it is easy to traverse to a bit farther to the right.

Walk off as per Sunny Day or head left and set up a top rope anchor with the chain anchors on the route to the left, Bittersweet (hard 9).

Location

to be filled in

Protection

This requires some fist-sized cams.

Photos

Tyson Arp
Omaha, NE
 
Tyson Arp   Omaha, NE
 
Definitely do the Corbel Exit if you can talk yourself into it! It's only one move, but boy is it fun.
If you're chicken like me, a carefully laid runner can be tied around the corbel for some protection. There is a chance this would hold a fall, but mostly it just gives you a little peace of mind, since your last piece of pro will be well below you by the time you get to the corbel. Realistically, the corbel sits above a large enough ledge that if you feel like you're not going to make it you can just hop back down to the ledge and give it another try. Jun 15, 2007
Charles Danforth
L'ville, CO
 
Charles Danforth   L'ville, CO
 
Avoid the chimney start and follow the thin right-leaning ramp/hand traverse to the start of the crack. Pro is thin, but a couple small cams provide more protection than the unprotected chimney start. Nice climb with a nice crack. Nov 11, 2007
Tim Kessel
Fort Collins
  5.4
Tim Kessel   Fort Collins
  5.4
Cool little route, eats pro, did the ramp to get up to the crack. Jul 9, 2017