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Routes in Valley Massif

Been Hair Done That T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Best Man T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bill Steal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bittersweet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Joke, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Falcon's Lair T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hair of the Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hammer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hooker T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Internal Combustion T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
King of Coney Island T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Wrench T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Powder Puff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Quits T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Screw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slut, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Social Security Ran Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Soft Touch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sunny Day T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Surprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tail Spin T V9 7C
Tea Grinder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tool Or Die T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zipper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: Skip Harper, Rob Kelman, 1993
Page Views: 191 total, 5/month
Shared By: bart cubrich 1 on Jul 18, 2014
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Start in an obvious crack system on a boulder. Continue to follow this crack system for the duration of the route, though the crack peters out in several locations. When the large ledge is attained below the offwidth exit, there are a number of ways to finish the route, and a belay could be plugged here if rope drag is too high. The climbing is easy for the beginning of the route and gets harder in proportion to the poor quality of gear. Supposedly the crux is the offwidth exit (5.8), but if you are not a confident slab climber...do not attempt this route.

V1 A variation of this route finishes on the neighboring route Reverse ? Mark (5.7R). Move into this route by following the overhanging bulge/crack halfway up Social Security Ran Out to the right, instead of continuing up.

Location

This route starts just right of Ladder on a small boulder.

Protection

Standard rack, lots of slings, and some micro nuts.

Photos

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I found the crux to be some slab moves getting up a more vertical slab section. I placed the small blue and yellow Black Diamond micronuts and equalized them, I but will never know if this would have held a fall, since I made a strong effort not to fall. This could be 5.8+. Jul 18, 2014