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Routes in Valley Massif

Been Hair Done That T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Best Man T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bill Steal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bittersweet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Joke, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Falcon's Lair T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hair of the Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hammer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hooker T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Internal Combustion T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
King of Coney Island T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Wrench T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Powder Puff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Quits T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Screw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slut, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Social Security Ran Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Soft Touch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sunny Day T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Surprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tail Spin T V9 7C
Tea Grinder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tool Or Die T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zipper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,170 total · 7/month
Shared By: shad O'Neel on Jul 11, 2004
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This route is on the southwest corner of the Valley Massif. It is the leftmost of some cracks across the pretty slab seen from a distance. It's a 2 star Vedauwoo moderate, but the descent brings it down to 1 star in my opinion, but maybe there is a better way.

Climb 200' of easy 5.4 crack to a belay ledge below a headwall.

Stem and jam your way up the steep/short corner and take a hard right on a ramp to a boulder strewn ledge (short lead).

Down-slab near a wide crack (feels sketchy) to find rap bolts. These are strange bolts but seemed solid. Rap ~60' to another set and rap to the ground. I would discourage a double rope rap as your ropes will likely be eaten.

Protection

Bring a set of cams to #3.5 Camalot.

Photos

bart cubrich 1  
  5.7
The rap is annoying, but this climb get 1 star because it is fairly monotonous and mostly 5.4.... It can be finished directly by going straight up the crack instead of traversing right and probably goes at about 5.7+ this way. May 29, 2014

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