Avg: 3.6 from 34 votes
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft|
|Page Views:||3,738 total · 20/month|
|Shared By:||Anonymous Coward on Aug 4, 2002|
|Admins:||Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki|
DescriptionThis is the first crack system right of Screw on the Northwest face of the Valley Massif. This route consists mostly of excellent 5.8/5.9 hands with the 5.10a flare in between for added excitement. This single pitch leads to the same belay ledge as for Screw. Heel and Toe describes the first section of this route as moderate offwidth, but it's actually moderate hands.
The handcrack ascends from the ground about 30 feet to a horizontal crack / ledge. From the ledge, a right-leaning flare heads up past a bush where it becomes a handcrack. The flare is the crux, and Heel and Toe describes it as hard to protect, although it is not. A #5 Camalot would protect it best, though a flaring #4 Camalot works.