Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,756 total · 22/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Aug 4, 2002
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Description Suggest change

This is the first crack system right of Screw on the Northwest face of the Valley Massif. This route consists mostly of excellent 5.8/5.9 hands with the 5.10a flare in between for added excitement. This single pitch leads to the same belay ledge as for Screw. Heel and Toe describes the first section of this route as moderate offwidth, but it's actually moderate hands.

The handcrack ascends from the ground about 30 feet to a horizontal crack / ledge. From the ledge, a right-leaning flare heads up past a bush where it becomes a handcrack. The flare is the crux, and Heel and Toe describes it as hard to protect, although it is not. A #5 Camalot would protect it best, though a flaring #4 Camalot works.

Protection Suggest change

Cams from 0.5" to 6.0", with doubles in the 0.75"-3.0" range, and mid-range stoppers.

Per Kurtz: there is a set of rappel rings about 15 feet climber's right of the top of this route that you can't see until you traverse the ledge. A 70m rope gets you down with plenty to spare. I am not sure, but I think a 60m might reach.

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