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Routes in Valley Massif

Been Hair Done That T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Best Man T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bill Steal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bittersweet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Joke, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Falcon's Lair T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hair of the Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hammer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hooker T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Internal Combustion T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
King of Coney Island T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Wrench T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Powder Puff T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Quits T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Screw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slut, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Social Security Ran Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Soft Touch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sunny Day T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Surprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tail Spin T V9 7C
Tea Grinder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tool Or Die T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zipper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,343 total · 15/month
Shared By: Donny on Jun 24, 2005
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Hammer ascends the very prominent off-width on the right side (when looking at the south face of Valley Massif). It is several routes right of Screw. The crack terminates just to the right of the right-most (and biggest) block resting on the summit.

From the trail, scramble up some blocks to the right of Zipper.

The first pitch is a nice warm-up for whats to come: climb a wide crack for 60 feet or so to a two bolt anchor. From the anchor, there are two cracks: Hammer climbs the off-width on the left. I thought that this pitch was very sustained and strenuous. The #5 gave me peace-of-mind while I heel-to-toed and chickenwinged up this on. Past the second chockstone, the crack becomes a chimney. There is a two bolt anchor with chains on the right side. I accidentally climbed way past these and had to downclimb the slab, which was not bad.

Protection

Bring a #2 Camalot on up. The #4 and 5 are very useful.

Per Daniel James: the bolt anchors on top do not have chains, they are just hangers. There are anchors at the top of the crack and on the slab below, only the slab below will get you to the first anchors on a 60m rope.

The intermediate anchor between P1 and P2 has hammer link rappel, and the left bolt is loose as it can be wiggled side to side with a finger. There are a pair of good looking bolts and hangers on this ledge far from the belay but without chains or anything else to rap off of.

Photos

Stefanie Van Wychen
Denver, CO
Stefanie Van Wychen   Denver, CO
This is an awesome climb, accidentally got on it thinking it was Zipper the first time we were at Valley Massif. Although I climbed this one in the early days of my offwidth climbing experience, I thought it was pretty frickin' strenuous - and think it's harder than many 9s I've climbed at Vedauwoo including Finally and Fantasia - mainly just more sustained. Great climb, though!!!! Yeah, the bolts are to the right and above you on the slab when you're facing into the chimney at the top, you won't be able to see them from below.... Aug 28, 2006
justin hausmann
Fort collins
justin hausmann   Fort collins
P2=chickenwinging gruntfest. Aug 19, 2013
R Sather
COLORADO
  5.8
R Sather   COLORADO
  5.8
Love this climb, and I finally got it clean. The first time I tried it the 2nd pitch spanked me, and I fell out! Used 2 #5s and a #6 and was very well protected. We lowered off and climbed Tool or Die. Was a great way to get three pitches in. I feel like might just be able to call myself a 5.8 climber now. Jun 1, 2015
Daniel James
right now: Custer, SD. orig…
Daniel James   right now: Custer, SD. orig…
Anchor/rappel notes!
The two bolt anchors up top *do not* have chains, they are just hangers. We had to leave some taped shut carabiners on them. There are anchors at the top of the crack and on the slab below, only the slab below will get you to the first anchors on a 60m rope.

The intermediate anchor between P1 and P2 has hammer link rappel, and the left bolt is a bit shit as it can be wiggled side to side with a finger. There are a pair of good looking bolts and hangers on this ledge far from the belay but without chains or anything else to rap off of. Jun 26, 2017
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
 
There are fat hangers on the slab, designed for rappelling. Jul 5, 2017

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