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Routes in Valley Massif

Been Hair Done That T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Best Man T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bill Steal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bittersweet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Joke, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Falcon's Lair T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hair of the Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hammer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hooker T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Internal Combustion T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
King of Coney Island T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Wrench T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Powder Puff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Quits T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Screw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slut, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Social Security Ran Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Soft Touch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sunny Day T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Surprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tail Spin T V9 7C
Tea Grinder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tool Or Die T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zipper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 225 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 326 total, 3/month
Shared By: Sean Dunlop on Aug 6, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Tea Grinder is lots of fun and varied.

It opens with a fun but relaxed hand crack and after approximately 40-50 feet enters a short but strenuous/fun chimney protectable with #0.5 and 0.75 Camalots. Following the chimney the climb makes its way left into another handcrack and around a small bush and ends on a ledge for a gear belay. The final pitch follows the short (15-20 feet) offwidth section. I found the crux in the final offwidth moves.

Location

It is on the Northwest side of the formation just right of Monkey Wrench.

Protection

A set of nuts and #0.5 - #3 Camalot. Doubles were nice in the #1-3 range, and there is potential for a #4 in the offwidth.

Photos

Anthony
Northern CO
Anthony   Northern CO
This route is best accessed by starting with Screw. After the chimney and climbing the left-facing dihedral, make a step across to the left, and follow the thinner crack system to a belay past the bush. Ride the lazy boy to start the second pitch, sack up, and climb the wide(ish) crack to the get to the hand jam at the top. Use some finger/off-finger stuff for after the step across, maybe a #2 Camalot and a few wide-hands to fist pieces will sew up the second pitch. Scramble up and left to move right and rap down off the boulder at the top of Screw. Jun 12, 2017