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Routes in Valley Massif

Been Hair Done That T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Best Man T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bill Steal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bittersweet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Joke, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Falcon's Lair T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hair of the Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hammer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hooker T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Internal Combustion T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
King of Coney Island T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Wrench T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Powder Puff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Quits T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Screw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slut, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Social Security Ran Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Soft Touch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sunny Day T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Surprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tail Spin T V9 7C
Tea Grinder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tool Or Die T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zipper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,154 total, 35/month
Shared By: Skip Harper on Apr 30, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This route is located on the Northwest face. Screw is the second large crack system to the right of the large roof. The route starts with a blocky crack that leads to a chimney about thirty feet from the start. Once through the chimney stay to the right and follow the hand crack to a large ledge. Belay from this ledge. The first 15' after this ledge is offwidth. Cross the nearly horizontal section and finish the climb with a perfect hand crack. Walk off to the left.

Protection

I recommend a #4 Camalot to protect the offwidth crack at the start of the second pitch.
Ben D.
Colorado
  5.8
Ben D.   Colorado
  5.8
This is a great route and well-worth the hike especially if you're looking to get away from the crowds and tourists around the campground! Even though this is rated 5.7, it felt MUCH harder than Edward's Crack.

P1 starts with what looks like a blocky, vegitated ladder up to the chimney but actually climbs better than it looks. The chimney is the crux of the climb and felt like solid 5.8 (but I'm also not a very good chimney climber). The chimney was type 3 fun for me, but once you pull through the small bulge at the top of the chimney, the fun really starts. Take advantage of a good rest, and then head up a stellar 5.7 hand crack (the rightmost crack) to a beautiful belay ledge. You can sling a flake here for a good belay anchor.

P2 starts with a nice off-width and then leads to a little, horizontal area. Here, you can either climb over a boulder with a protectable flake to the right, or go left into another chimney. I lead on the flakey boulder to the right, while my girlfriend chose to follow in the chimney to the left. She said it was quite easy. After the boulder/chimney, come to the 5.6 hand crack that is all too short, but AWESOME, that leads to the top of the climb.

Due to weather, we walked off climber's left, Northeast, through a series of tunnels and caves to the end of the formation and through forested rock via a social trail back to the base. To the top and then back to the bottom took about 2-1/2 hours. Aug 18, 2017
tkessel Kessel
Windsor,CO
  5.8
tkessel Kessel   Windsor,CO
  5.8
Wow! What an awesome sustained climb! Great gear and fun movement! Loved it! Big storm rolled in just as we finished up 2nd pitch, epic! Jul 9, 2017
K Gustafson
  5.7+
K Gustafson  
  5.7+
Best 5.7 I have ever done. I broke this down into 3 pitches. The first I ended before the offwidth by slinging cord around a flake. The second pitch was about 15 feet of offwidth; pushed a single #5 through the whole thing. The third pitch was the hand/finger crack finale. Sep 12, 2016
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.7+
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.7+
Awkward for a few moves in the chimney. UK grade VS 4c or Ogwen Valley V Diff. Oct 10, 2015
Mike Regall  
 
We climbed this route on Halloween. (*Significantly colder than Colorado Front Range.) Fun chimney and hand crack, great exposure and view to the west from the top. Was able to watch a beautiful sunset. Nov 1, 2010
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
You should be able to use a 60m rope to get down to the base of zipper, then downclimb down to the base of Hammer, and then off the formation. Kind of a hybrid descent, and a little scary in spots, but not too bad. Jun 1, 2008
John Korfmacher
Fort Collins, CO
John Korfmacher   Fort Collins, CO
Nice route--good jams, good pro, chimney section was tough but it required only 3-4 moves and was well-protected. The rap chain stations indicated in the guidebook for 70' rappels no longer are there but the 120' station is usable. Walkoff east is just as easy. Jun 12, 2006
coop Best
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
coop Best   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Agreed, this is a fantastic route and worth the nice walk out. Sep 12, 2005
Excellent! Sep 12, 2005
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
 
Classic. Probably the most travelled route on the NW face. The 5.6 finger and hand crack is surely one of the best of its grade at the 'Voo. Jul 19, 2005
shad O'Neel  
 
the chimney is the gateway to superb handcracks. upon topping out, we couldnt resist the short but sweet cracks that take you up another level, still possible to scramble off. IT probably ups the grade to 8+, but is a great addition. Jul 14, 2004

 
It has some of everything. If you want to climb this it will take all you have! Aug 28, 2002
Tyson S Arp  
 
Love this route! Aug 18, 2002
Nikos  
4-star route! Has a little bit of everything, chimney, fantastic hand cracks and some (easy) offwidth. Right side into the chimney works well. Jun 24, 2002
Hill  
We found the chimney on pitch 1 is more easily tackled right side in. Placing pro is harder this way but it's possible to exit the chimney earlier on face holds by going right side in. The final 5.6 crack is positively top of the lin Apr 30, 2002