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Routes in Valley Massif
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Been Hair Done That T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Best Man T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bill Steal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bittersweet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dirty Joke, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Falcon's Lair T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hair of the Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hammer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hooker T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Internal Combustion T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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King of Coney Island T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Monkey Wrench T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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New Maps of Hell T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Powder Puff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Quits T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Screw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Social Security Ran Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Soft Touch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sunny Day T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Surprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tail Spin T V9 7C |
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Tea Grinder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tool Or Die T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unknown Legend T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Zipper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 788 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Max Joseph on Aug 13, 2012 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki |
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Description
This is a short section of offwidth to a bird-crap encrusted ledge into a chimney that pinches down to an offwidth.
Climb up the offwidth, into the chimney, and then up some more offwidth noting a bolted anchor to your left 80 feet up. You can either continue up the wide crack system, or traverse left to another wide crack system about 10 feet above the 2 bolt anchor, then downclimb to the anchors to set up a toprope/descend conveniently. After a one rope rap, you can then rap from the base of the climb off of the newish 2 bolt anchor with rap rings.
Climb up the offwidth, into the chimney, and then up some more offwidth noting a bolted anchor to your left 80 feet up. You can either continue up the wide crack system, or traverse left to another wide crack system about 10 feet above the 2 bolt anchor, then downclimb to the anchors to set up a toprope/descend conveniently. After a one rope rap, you can then rap from the base of the climb off of the newish 2 bolt anchor with rap rings.
Location
Look for a big flake with rounded edges to the right of Nail with a wide crack forming at its left side. There's a hueco to the right of the route about 30 feet up. Scramble to the base of the crack, and find a two bolt anchor with rap rings at the base.
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