Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 270 total · 3/month
Shared By: Max Joseph on Aug 13, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a short section of offwidth to a bird-crap encrusted ledge into a chimney that pinches down to an offwidth.

Climb up the offwidth, into the chimney, and then up some more offwidth noting a bolted anchor to your left 80 feet up. You can either continue up the wide crack system, or traverse left to another wide crack system about 10 feet above the 2 bolt anchor, then downclimb to the anchors to set up a toprope/descend conveniently. After a one rope rap, you can then rap from the base of the climb off of the newish 2 bolt anchor with rap rings.

Location

Look for a big flake with rounded edges to the right of Nail with a wide crack forming at its left side. There's a hueco to the right of the route about 30 feet up. Scramble to the base of the crack, and find a two bolt anchor with rap rings at the base.

Protection

Single rack of cams from fingers to big (like a new #6 Camalot).

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