Avg: 3 from 38 votes
Routes in Valley Massif
|Been Hair Done That T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Best Man T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Bill Steal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Bittersweet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Dirty Joke, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Falcon's Lair T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Hair of the Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Hammer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Hooker T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Internal Combustion T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|King of Coney Island T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Monkey Wrench T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Nail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Powder Puff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Quits T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Screw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Slut, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Social Security Ran Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Soft Touch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Sunny Day T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Surprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Tail Spin T V9 7C|
|Tea Grinder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Tool Or Die T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Zipper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||3,094 total, 16/month|
|Shared By:||Holly Barnard on May 3, 2002|
|Admins:||Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki|
DescriptionZipper starts about 40 feet right of Screw. Midway up the climb, you will a group of 3 parallel cracks. You can use this feature to help you find the start.
P1 - go up pretty easy ground (20 feet) and then enter the off-width. In my opinion, entering the off-width is the crux. Grunt your way up to a ledge (another 20 feet) and belay.
P2 - there are 3 variations to P2, each given a its own name in Harper's guidebook. Zipper follows the right-most crack (more off-width). The Snap variation which we took goes up the middle crack/slot. It begins with a couple of thinner parallel cracks in the slot and then continues into some moderate off-width. The Button variation is the leftmost hand crack. Harper's book decribes it as sustained and hard to protect, but I don't know since we didn't climb it. Belay at huge platform.
P3 - Smile as you cruise up a straightforward but interesting hand crack. Place everything from nuts to that #4.5 Camalot you hauled up. This pitch has consistent foot jamming, but it's not all hand jams all the way up.
Walk off to the Northeast following the path of least resistance.