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Routes in Valley Massif

Been Hair Done That T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Best Man T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bill Steal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bittersweet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Joke, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Falcon's Lair T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hair of the Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hammer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hooker T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Internal Combustion T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
King of Coney Island T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Wrench T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Powder Puff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Quits T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Screw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slut, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Social Security Ran Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Soft Touch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sunny Day T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Surprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tail Spin T V9 7C
Tea Grinder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tool Or Die T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zipper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,094 total, 16/month
Shared By: Holly Barnard on May 3, 2002
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Zipper starts about 40 feet right of Screw. Midway up the climb, you will a group of 3 parallel cracks. You can use this feature to help you find the start.

P1 - go up pretty easy ground (20 feet) and then enter the off-width. In my opinion, entering the off-width is the crux. Grunt your way up to a ledge (another 20 feet) and belay.

P2 - there are 3 variations to P2, each given a its own name in Harper's guidebook. Zipper follows the right-most crack (more off-width). The Snap variation which we took goes up the middle crack/slot. It begins with a couple of thinner parallel cracks in the slot and then continues into some moderate off-width. The Button variation is the leftmost hand crack. Harper's book decribes it as sustained and hard to protect, but I don't know since we didn't climb it. Belay at huge platform.

P3 - Smile as you cruise up a straightforward but interesting hand crack. Place everything from nuts to that #4.5 Camalot you hauled up. This pitch has consistent foot jamming, but it's not all hand jams all the way up.

Walk off to the Northeast following the path of least resistance.

Protection

stanard rack, plus some made-for-Vedauwoo big gear, including a couple #4 camalots, a #4.5 camalot and/or a #3(green) big bro. You might want to bring a couple extra hand size pieces for the last pitch, but it isn't completely necessary.

Photos

Mat D.
Laramie, WY
Mat D.   Laramie, WY
Climbed this with the Snap (middle) variation on July 1. Fun route! I think the Snap variation was enjoyable but fair warning: 1) the large loose Death Flake is still there, and 2) after the Death Flake, the climbing is enjoyable but the rock quality is lower than what is typical for Vedauwoo, I scraped a lot of loose pebbles off the rock.

Gear beta for Snap variation: the part of the climb you can't realy see from the ground takes #3s, #4s, and I think I placed a #5 Camalot as well. Aug 14, 2017
Abandoned gear! I got so frustrated with my head getting stuck in the Snap Variation that I ditched my helmet. Due to a pop up thunderstorm, I failed to retrieve it. I will probably go back next week to get it, but if anyone happens to grab it and then sees this post, I'd love to come get it from you. Thanks!
-Tim
tmetzkorn@gmail.com
P.S. I wouldn't exactly recommend the Snap Variation anyways. The large loose flake is still there. Climbing around it - so as to not inadvertently turn your partner into a vegetable - makes the climb both significantly harder and much less fun. Jul 11, 2014
cstebbins024
Laramie, WY
cstebbins024   Laramie, WY
I don't think that any Big Bros are needed, although I only climbed the Zipper variation. The second pitch (Zipper variation) is so tight it would take an act of God to fall out of it. I suggest at least one #6 Camalot for the first pitch. Jun 9, 2014
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
 
The squeeze chimney on p2 is pretty tight- I almost got stuck (32" waist). Do have a couple larger pieces for the second pitch. Sep 9, 2012
Cory Harelson
Boise, ID
  5.8
Cory Harelson   Boise, ID
  5.8
What a fun climb! Had I thought to tunnel at the end of pitch 2, the crux would definitley have been getting into the OW on pitch 1. But if you bring a #5 along, you can place it above your head and figure the move out worry free. After that just straightforward enjoyable OW climbing for two pitches (almost). The end of pitch 2 was perplexing. I didn't think to tunnel in behind the bulge, but in hind sight that may have worked well (doh!). I wasn't able to pull over the bulge at the end of pitch 2 and had to step left to finish on the middle crack.

The last pitch was an awesome hand and fist crack with great sustained jams all the way up. It's the stuff dreams are made of! Jul 27, 2009
Jason Funk
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Jason Funk   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Just did the last pitch but it was fantastic, perfect hand jams and a couple wide sections. Watch the rap with a 60m rope (won't make it with anything less) we just barely made it to the ledge with stretch - still need to down climb a little to get all the way down off the wall. Jun 18, 2008
climber73
Fort Collins, CO
 
climber73   Fort Collins, CO
 
The 1st pitch crux is fun as long as you have big gear. My wife lead the 2nd pitch as a squeeze, tunneling into the rock above the 1st belay. I tried to do this on lead but had to back down and set up a belay as my chest and hips were too big to fit through the squeeze (I have a 36 inch waist and she has like a 19 inch waist). I followed the 2nd pitch via the snap variation.

Save some gear for the 3rd pitch top. There are 20+ feet of climbing beyond what you can see from the belay ledge. Use one or two of your largest cams for the top section, or put hand size pieces in at the back of the crack. There is a chockstone pretty high that would be great to sling. Aug 12, 2007
John Kelley
Sedona, AZ
 
John Kelley   Sedona, AZ
 
Awesome climb, getting into the offwidth is a little funky and big gear is nice #5+. Every pitch is unique, a great varied route. Mar 21, 2005
The Snap variation (second pitch, middle crack) has a nasty loose flake about the size of a large pillow -- but MUCH HARDER, HEAVIER, AND SHARPER. I cleaned a chuck from it larger than a grapefruit... but the main portion remains.

I had a tough time trying not to torque it sideways as I crawled past it. BE CAREFUL HERE. Jul 3, 2002