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Routes in Valley Massif

Been Hair Done That T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Best Man T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bill Steal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bittersweet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Joke, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Falcon's Lair T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hair of the Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hammer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hooker T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Internal Combustion T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
King of Coney Island T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Wrench T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Powder Puff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Quits T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Screw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slut, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Social Security Ran Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Soft Touch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sunny Day T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Surprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tail Spin T V9 7C
Tea Grinder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tool Or Die T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zipper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Valley Massif has a collection of good multi-pitch traditional crack climbs. The guidebook for this area declares Valley Massif as one of the loveliest areas in Vedauwoo. I have to agree. This area is made up primarily of two faces--the Northwest face and the Southeast face. The Northwest face stays shaded most of the day and the opposite is true for the Southeast face. The Southeast face has some nesting birds of prey so check for closures. The walk off for most of the routes is to the Northeast.

Getting There

To get to this area follow the Turtle Rock trail that starts in the parking area near the base of Walt's Wall. The trailhead is on the left side of the parking area when facing Walt's. Follow this trail around until you see the Valley Massif rock outcroppings across the valley. You will have to cross some beaver dams to get there.

26 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Valley Massif

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 17
Powder Puff
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 17
Sunny Day
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 37
Soft Touch
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 53
Bill Steal
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 88
Screw
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 29
Nail
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 38
Zipper
Trad 3 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 38
Hammer
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 11
Quits
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 46
Tool Or Die
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 34
Monkey Wrench
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
King of Coney Island
Trad, Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 29
Hooker
Trad 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 3
Been Hair Done That
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Powder Puff
 17
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Sunny Day
 17
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Soft Touch
 37
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Bill Steal
 53
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Screw
 88
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Nail
 29
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Zipper
 38
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Hammer
 38
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Quits
 11
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Tool Or Die
 46
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Monkey Wrench
 34
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
King of Coney Island
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Hooker
 29
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Been Hair Done That
 3
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Valley Massif »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Just a note on approaches for those using Heel & Toe. Things have changed a little bit in the Valley Massif area (and the Reynolds area, for that matter)since the publication of H & T, probably for the better if you go to Vedauwoo seeking solitude.

Viable approaches include: (1) as described above, take the Turtle Rock trail from the parking lot below Walt's Wall and past Holy Saturday; (2) take the Turtle Rock Trail from the east trailhead near the beaver ponds, around the Turtle Rock massif, and across any convenient beaver dam; (3) hike in from the Reynolds Road closure point (old #700D); and last but not least (4) take a good trail that drops down to Valley Massif from the SE corner of Poland Hill. The latter option probably involves the least "swamp-whacking", but is uphill all the way out.

Right now is a great time to hit Valley Massif if you're in the area. As of 9/23, the approach was bug-free and mostly dry, the aspens had turned, and there was nobody around except for the elk.

Sep 24, 2001
A hidden gem. This rock provides a mystical experience that gives Vedauwoo its character and charm. Jun 5, 2004
Nice easy and free walk from the Poland Hill parking area. Jul 14, 2004
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
Approach we used: Take the Turtle rock trail past the beaver ponds. Continue on the excellent trail passing a few ponds and swampy areas. Meet up with a well defined trail going left (marked with a cairn)This will skirt a pond. Follow this to the base of Valley Massif. Pretty much dry the whole way. To approach the actual climbs it is easist to go in from the far left of the formation, finding your way through the inevitable Veduawoo boulders. It is also possible to get to the climbs from the right but you will have to do some canyoneering type moves through a very narrow slot. This is fun as well, and is also required to get back to the base if you top out on routes and walk off. Jun 12, 2007
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
Coming out to this formation is well-worth the ~45-minute mellow approach. Gorgeous grasslands and views will bring you (especially on a weekday) to a shade-offering climbing paradise where you may find yourself alone to enough a bevy of moderate classics).

Note that after the main trail passes left around the Walt's/Jurrasic Park/etc. formations, wait until you reach a very obvious trail junction with a hard-right rocky turn option before turning left towards the crag. Though "The Voo" guidebook referencing three "beaver dam" crossings, in July we only crossed mostly-dry marshes here to find the crag.

After the aforementioned left path turn, the trail will be faint but will lead the way if you match it up with the guidebook's area map. Jul 18, 2013
Jonathan Stickel
Golden, CO
Jonathan Stickel   Golden, CO
There are now rappel anchors at the top of Best Man and a second set halfway down to the left of Zipper. These can be used to rappel from the popular routes that feed into this area (from Screw to Zipper). A 60m just makes it for both rappels -- tie knots! For the upper rappel with a 60m, stop at a ledge and down-climb 6 ft. Jul 12, 2015

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