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Routes in Valley Massif

Been Hair Done That T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Best Man T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bill Steal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bittersweet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Joke, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Falcon's Lair T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hair of the Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hammer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hooker T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Internal Combustion T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
King of Coney Island T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Wrench T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Powder Puff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Quits T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Screw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slut, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Social Security Ran Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Soft Touch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sunny Day T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Surprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tail Spin T V9 7C
Tea Grinder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tool Or Die T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zipper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,319 total, 7/month
Shared By: Kreighton Bieger on Sep 22, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

On the SE face of Valley Massif, locate an obvious crack system that is pretty much straight up the middle of the crag. Consult Harper, et al. for a great photo. Third class it up to a ledge with a great view of the area, directly below the route.

P1. Gain the bottom of a wide cleft below an overhanging hand to fist crack with a flake on its right. Work up the cleft, jam and layback the crack (some big gear) over its top to a great ledge and belay.

P2. Work straight up a crack through a bulge to where it widens a bit, and be happy you have pants on. Solve the dilema of which direction to face, then enjoy great jamming. The crack eases off near the top and gains another huge ledge with a distinct block on top.

P3a. As per the book, locate a leaning crack that lies between a flake and the large block at the top. This is short, sweet and hard 9.

P3b. Hollerith Exit is a hand/fist crack on the right side of the block described for the regular third pitch, 5.8.

From the summit, follow your nose off to the NE, boulder hop and walk off to the bottom. A small but distinct path can be found that will deliver you back at the east corner of the crag.

Protection

Range from small cams (yellow alien) to #6 Friend. #3 -#4 Camalots are handy, probably double up on the #3 at least. A #9 BD hex for the start of the P1 crux.

Photos

Jason Funk
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
Jason Funk   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
Great route that takes you to the top of the massif. Did the left sequence on the last pitch and felt like it was really stout. Reminded me of lower progressive but a slight bit harder. Jun 18, 2008
My bad, I got a little anxious and put the route up before we were clear on which finish we'd done.

P3 has only two options - the obvious left leaning crack on the outside of the flake/block is the regular finish to Quits and allegedly goes at 9+ or so. The Hollerith Exit is located between the flake and the block and follows a short but sweet fist crack up in a bit of a squeeze job to the top of the block. This option is '5.8', but might feel harder, depending on who you ask and how macho you are.

Sorry for the confusion. Either way, there are two distinct and beautiful choices to exit this route. Sep 25, 2001
Darin Lang  
 
An excellent and varied climb. From the ground, P1 looks to be solidly in the mid-5.10 range, but the holds are definitely there - win new friends and silence your enemies with a photo of yourself exiting the overhanging crux on the handy, yet tenuous undercling/lieback flake. Both P2 and P3 also have their interesting moments. Sep 24, 2001