Avg: 2.8 from 11 votes
Routes in Valley Massif
|Been Hair Done That T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Best Man T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Bill Steal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Bittersweet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Dirty Joke, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Falcon's Lair T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Hair of the Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Hammer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Hooker T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Internal Combustion T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|King of Coney Island T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Monkey Wrench T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Nail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Powder Puff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Quits T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Screw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Slut, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Social Security Ran Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Soft Touch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Sunny Day T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Surprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Tail Spin T V9 7C|
|Tea Grinder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Tool Or Die T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Zipper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||1,319 total, 7/month|
|Shared By:||Kreighton Bieger on Sep 22, 2001|
|Admins:||Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki|
DescriptionOn the SE face of Valley Massif, locate an obvious crack system that is pretty much straight up the middle of the crag. Consult Harper, et al. for a great photo. Third class it up to a ledge with a great view of the area, directly below the route.
P1. Gain the bottom of a wide cleft below an overhanging hand to fist crack with a flake on its right. Work up the cleft, jam and layback the crack (some big gear) over its top to a great ledge and belay.
P2. Work straight up a crack through a bulge to where it widens a bit, and be happy you have pants on. Solve the dilema of which direction to face, then enjoy great jamming. The crack eases off near the top and gains another huge ledge with a distinct block on top.
P3a. As per the book, locate a leaning crack that lies between a flake and the large block at the top. This is short, sweet and hard 9.
P3b. Hollerith Exit is a hand/fist crack on the right side of the block described for the regular third pitch, 5.8.
From the summit, follow your nose off to the NE, boulder hop and walk off to the bottom. A small but distinct path can be found that will deliver you back at the east corner of the crag.