Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: George Hurley, Jerry Sublett, c. 1965
Page Views: 1,643 total · 14/month
Shared By: Jason Funk on Jul 9, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


30 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is an often overlooked route on the north side of the Valley Massif that although is not a classic, is nonetheless worthwhile if youÂ’re in the area. On the north side of Valley Massif, about 50 feet right of the start of Hammer, approach by scrambling up a short, easy, hand crack moving back at the top into the left side the alcove. Ascend the face first using the hand crack on the left then switching to the one on the face. The face crack eventually leads to easy climbing on a series of big holds in a right facing corner. From here, either continue up the thin crack to the anchors on top of Tool or Die (harder?) or exit by stepping right over a wide crack and onto the west face of the Massif. The right exit seems to be easier, but there is no bolted anchor at the top and nothing but a great big crack splitting the face so make sure to have a few extra wide pieces (#4 Camalot or wider) to make an anchor. To reach the rap stations on the north side, traverse south 100 ft and than east 50 ft making your way around the ledges on the west and south face, staying roped up if necessary.

Location

On the north side of Valley Massif, about 50 feet right of the start of Hammer, approach by scrambling up a short, easy, hand crack moving back at the top into the left side the alcove.

Protection

A standard Vedauwoo rack: stoppers, doubles in small cams (Aliens) up to #3 Camalots, and singles #4 & 5 Camalots.

Photos

Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
We were running out of sunlight, so just did the first two pitches, the short 50' one and the longer second one up the corner. With the bolted belay stations, it's easy to rappel from here. Jun 28, 2012
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.7
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.7
A worthwhile outing, though a bit disappointing for **** as shown in The Voo guidebook. Oct 10, 2015
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
King of Coney is a great, safe, 10- finish to this climb. Jul 5, 2017
T G
Boulder, CO
 
T G   Boulder, CO
 
There are two, half inch, black rap hangers on the face of the wall at the top of this pitch if you don't feel like climbing higher. As of 9/22/18, the bolts are flexing, and the hangers are a bit loose - we tightened them as best as we could. Sep 23, 2018